| [ Total Views: 2078 | Total Replies: 9 | Thread Id: 83912 ] |
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 komuter
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| posted on May 27th, 2010 at 12:41 PM |
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fitting beam adjusters at home?
hi could anyone lead me in the right direction on instructions or a video of this being done .is it a massive job or not?
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on May 27th, 2010 at 01:32 PM |
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use the search function 
Its not too bad. it will require full front end disassembly.
You cut and install one adjuster at a time.... because the remaining 'one piece' torsion tube holds it together and square as a 'jig'. of course,
angle the edges of the tubes and adjusters ur welding to get a good deep weld all the way through.
U lowering or raising? Mark and measure visibly before cutting. By drawing a line somewhere perpendicular and across both cutting planes, you can
measure how many mm's up or down u want to go from there. find where u wanna go, spot weld it in place, double check, then seam weld it all in.
Some people only install one adjuster... depends how far u want to go.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
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New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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t2
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| posted on May 27th, 2010 at 03:24 PM |
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above post is wrong for a kombi,
you dont need to cut the beam into bits.
1, strip the beam down completely.
2, you need to move the spring plate retaining bush in both torsion tubes about 20mm so its just far enough to be out of the way
3, the bush is held by 3 dimples, the easiest way to move it is with a sledge hammer and a drift or dolly, stand the front end on its end or hard up
against a solid wall, slide in the neat fitting dolly and give it a whack or 2, you will be able to see the bush through the hole , do this to both
bushes
4, get your adjuster and sit it on the beam making sure it is placed at its highest setting ,this will be stock height, mark the slot through the
adjuster on the torsion tube and cut it out (both tubes).
5, you then need to get a die grinder or a drill with a die grinder bit and grind down the high spots on the dimples, these are on the inside of the
torsion tubes, you can get to them through you new slot you have just cut.
6, knock the retainers back to the place they were originally.
7, you will need to make a tool that will screw into the spring plate retainer to check it is free and can now turn, not loose just free. Weld a bolt
14 x 1.5mm with a thread around 40mm long to a piece of rod or something around 400mm long. you can screw that into the retainer and use it to turn
it.
8,put the adjuster back into position and using the retainer bolt the adjuster all together including the locking plate in position, this will hold it
for welding, tack it in the 4 corners.
9, remove the locking plate and install the new tool you made , weld on the adjuster making sure you rotate the retainer more often than not to make
sure the heat doesnt lock the retainer up tight.
10, you are done
or check this post
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=64301&postdays=0&pos...
gravity wont get you high
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komuter
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| posted on May 27th, 2010 at 06:00 PM |
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thanks guys ,,i think i will give it a go
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t2
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| posted on May 27th, 2010 at 06:11 PM |
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sounds harder than it is
gravity wont get you high
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 helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on May 27th, 2010 at 06:28 PM |
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It is really easy. Takes time and you will need a good welder. If you do a crap job it will be a crap job.
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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The international telephone dialing code for Antarctica is 672.
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| posted on May 27th, 2010 at 06:48 PM |
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woah! sorry guys, i just accessed via topic activity section, i didn't see it was in the buses section.
my mistake!
Yea do what those guys said 
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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Ampdub
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| posted on June 18th, 2010 at 01:18 PM |
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another option is to give it to a shop to do, i had a quote of $88 plus cost of adjuster or supply your own. That cost is if the beam is already
stripped and you just give it to them.
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phatratpat
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| posted on June 18th, 2010 at 04:04 PM |
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pm me the shop details please..might have some trade coming their way
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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 posted on June 18th, 2010 at 09:02 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by komuter
hi could anyone lead me in the right direction on instructions or a video of this being done .is it a massive job or not?
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it sounds much easier than it is....
If You aren't a good welder....
Don't do it... the welding has to be 100% or better... lol
and You have to disassemble the front axle assembly...
then, put it all back together...
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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