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Author: Subject:  beetle bonnet and engine seals - Mexican vs std
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posted on August 24th, 2010 at 08:15 PM
beetle bonnet and engine seals - Mexican vs std


I am curious about peoples opinions on engine and bonnet seals. The two types I know of are;

the standard version (with the clips) mounted to the body
Or
The Mexican type that mounts to the bonnet.

what are people's expiences. Are the mexican ones better or is the standard type?
Discuss...

(My reason for asking is i've had to remove my standard clips due to rusting and I'm not sure how to proceed)




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posted on August 24th, 2010 at 08:36 PM



Mexican every day

Get rid of that stupid channel that does nothing except rust


Have a look here

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=36756&page=3 




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yes.gif posted on August 25th, 2010 at 12:12 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by phoenix_dr
I am curious about peoples opinions on engine and bonnet seals. The two types I know of are;

the standard version (with the clips) mounted to the body
Or
The Mexican type that mounts to the bonnet.

what are people's expiences. Are the mexican ones better or is the standard type?
Discuss...

(My reason for asking is i've had to remove my standard clips due to rusting and I'm not sure how to proceed)



Hi
The Mexican type is excellent..
[maybe not made in Mexico ..lol]
very easy to fit...
one of then easiest jobs about.... lol

the only problem being across the top of the bonnet..
i have glued a piece of black sponge type rubber about 20mm wide by about 8-10mm thick... from side to side..
You may be able to get this item from clarke's rubber...

cheers

LEE





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posted on August 25th, 2010 at 07:01 AM



I have had the Mexicians on my Daily driver for past 8 years no problems they work well and dont moove or RUST

I also have the origionals on my restored cars and they work well as designed but the car dosnet get drive every day

when you do remove the origional clip strips try and not damage the surface under neath as that will be the new surface that the mexican seals sit on




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posted on August 25th, 2010 at 10:31 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by 68AutoBug
Quote:
Originally posted by phoenix_dr
I am curious about peoples opinions on engine and bonnet seals. The two types I know of are;

the standard version (with the clips) mounted to the body
Or
The Mexican type that mounts to the bonnet.

what are people's expiences. Are the mexican ones better or is the standard type?
Discuss...

(My reason for asking is i've had to remove my standard clips due to rusting and I'm not sure how to proceed)



Hi
The Mexican type is excellent..
[maybe not made in Mexico ..lol]
very easy to fit...
one of then easiest jobs about.... lol

the only problem being across the top of the bonnet..
i have glued a piece of black sponge type rubber about 20mm wide by about 8-10mm thick... from side to side..
You may be able to get this item from clarke's rubber...

cheers

LEE




Lee, have you got a pic of the section you glued across the top bonnet section?
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posted on August 25th, 2010 at 01:17 PM



I used and Origional seal for across the top of bonnet with clip section removed and used the origional 3 corners pin rubbers into the origional holes on the corners then just trim the lower section to length to match the new mexican seal where it ends on bonnet

I used contact glue to stick the center section across the bonnet it had to be taped in place for a day while the glue dried




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posted on August 25th, 2010 at 01:29 PM



What's everybodys prefered method for removing the old strip?

I've only removed it on one of my bugs and it was pretty crusty to start with so it just pulled off like a loose thread, but its in good nick and very well still attached on my Lbug??
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posted on August 25th, 2010 at 01:39 PM



If you are going to glue a strip there you are better off using the original

I found it was better to use another piece of Mexican seal across the very front of the windscreen lip
Spend time getting the bonnent to fit as far back as possible

Now mine is glued on i cant really take it off again

The trouble is if you use contact adhesive and put too much on dust and crap stick there and look dirty
If you dont put much on it doesnt stick properly

I have no trouble with water egress without the stuck down strip and my car lives outside 24/7

This is with it on

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/blue74l/Marty/103_2176.jpg




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posted on August 25th, 2010 at 01:41 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Joel
What's everybodys prefered method for removing the old strip?



I actually ground mine off because I thought VW actually put some effort to fix it properly

I have sinced helped another mate do his and it is as difficult to remove as a ring top can
Pry up a starting point and use a pair of pliers

No bloody wonder it rusts :grind:




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posted on August 25th, 2010 at 02:37 PM



Yep, pull it off like a zip generally, it's thinner material than the body sheet metal and comes off no prob. Just removed all the trim clips on the interior and they are harder, more grinding thin till it goes blue at the welds, then pull it off with pliers.



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posted on August 27th, 2010 at 09:51 PM



So the general choice for a daily driver would be the glue on mexican... you've sold me on them.

I mean after I cut out ALL THE BLOODY RUST that is.. Ha haha

As far as the engine lid goes what's the deal with them? Do they make them for pre-67's? Or is it best to clark rubber it?

Also, Has anyone used the mexican engine lid seals with (top opening) empi deck lid cooling kits/ extenders... (the things that pop the lid!)

Cheers for the discussion it's very enlightning :)




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posted on August 27th, 2010 at 09:55 PM



Also, big cheers to Bizarre for the photos
:two thumbs up.
I was wondering how I was going to tackle the front part... problem solved!




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posted on August 27th, 2010 at 10:02 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by phoenix_dr
So the general choice for a daily driver would be the glue on mexican... you've sold me on them.

I mean after I cut out ALL THE BLOODY RUST that is.. Ha haha

As far as the engine lid goes what's the deal with them? Do they make them for pre-67's? Or is it best to clark rubber it?

Also, Has anyone used the mexican engine lid seals with (top opening) empi deck lid cooling kits/ extenders... (the things that pop the lid!)

Cheers for the discussion it's very enlightning :)


Hi
THE SO CALLED MEXICAN SEALS, BECAUSE THEY WERE ON THE 2002 ETC MEXICAN MADE BEETLES...

THE seals are just pinchweld which could probably be found at clark rubber..
they are NOT glued on... just pushed onto the steel lip on the engine lid and bonnet...
I have both and have fitted cooling kits and extenders with no problems...

I think they are the same as what would be used on pop out windows on the body..??
or very similar.. pinchweld comes in lots of shapes...

it just goes round the engine lid.... not across the top...
and doesn't really matter what model of beetle...
You probably buy it by the metre...

I did buy mine from Vintage Vee Dub in Sydney...

LEE





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posted on September 3rd, 2010 at 02:03 AM



Nice one Lee
cheers




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posted on January 13th, 2013 at 10:43 PM



This thread has already answered my unasked question.... This forum has a wealth of info if you know where to look !!!
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posted on January 14th, 2013 at 11:58 AM



and you can buy it from clark rubber.



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posted on January 15th, 2013 at 12:10 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by Joel
What's everybodys prefered method for removing the old strip?

I've only removed it on one of my bugs and it was pretty crusty to start with so it just pulled off like a loose thread, but its in good nick and very well still attached on my Lbug??


Combination of 8mm spot weld drill and 1mm slitting disc on the grinder or std grinding disc and grind each spot weld out. For better access just bend the channel lip out the way.

As for the OP, the mexi style seal creates a much better seal than the old VW style. Mexi style is still used on most door and boot lids in modern vehicles :)




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posted on January 15th, 2013 at 04:00 PM



I just used a flat blade screwdriver like a chisel and a hammer to remove the front and rear strips from my 76. I short swift blow seems to crack the spot welds pretty easily.
Then a quick clean up with flap disc and angle grinder, bit of deoxidine, the lightest skim of filler and you are ready to repaint.


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