| [ Total Views: 9395 | Total Replies: 37 | Thread Id: 90645 ] |
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 ElusiveStranger
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| posted on August 13th, 2011 at 02:56 AM |
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Sorry Pete, I should have phrased it better. My inlet's the width of the chassis rails and sits 4" lower than the rail
I have mentioned before that the outgoing air has more volume than the incoming & also that the rad needs at least 1/3 of it's surface area to
really work.
Due to mine being situated in turbulent airflow and the fact it was going to be:
1/ Easier to fabricate
2/ Almost the same cost in metal
To make it nice and large
The result being the fan only comes on in very slow (or stationary) traffic. I'd wager money on the fan not kicking in on next week's 255 mile drive
- except for traffic jams
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ian.mezz
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I never said, I could write or spell
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| posted on August 13th, 2011 at 02:21 PM |
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I think those radiators look to big and the water flow is all out of whack. They mainly use cross-flow radiators in cars with a lack of room,
I d say you need to go talk to a radiator shop/ Guy to under stand
how a cooling system works.
YoU have the water going down then up then going into middle hoses bleeder and U tube
Then down then up again and back to the motor.
????
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on August 15th, 2011 at 08:59 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ian.mezz
I d say you need to go talk to a radiator shop/ Guy to under stand how a cooling system works.
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this is an awesome bit of advise and something I did. 
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dlrecord
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| posted on August 19th, 2011 at 01:01 AM |
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Posting with some real world data on my setup after +/- 1,000 miles on the system:
'79 Bay Campmobile Delux Westfalia
stock auto 3 speed
2001 Subaru 2.2l n/a
aftermarket 210*f thermo switch to control fans (not ecu)
dual 14" pusher fans
1.5" rake front to back (front lower)
No boxing of sides or rear
No scoop
Fans kick on at about 207*F (thermo switch is a 210*F) and kick off at 195*. So far no overheating issues or other coolant issues. The fans are on a
little more then I would like. I am thinking about buying some pool noodles to box in the sides and rear temperarily to see if that makes a
difference or not.
I'll also be adding front and rear heaters this fall so we'll see how that impacts the system if at all. One thing at a time though so I can
determine specific impact based on specific changes.
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markd89
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| posted on August 19th, 2011 at 01:40 AM |
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Thanks for all the ideas and feedback 
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GeorgeL
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| posted on October 18th, 2011 at 08:22 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by dlrecord
Posting with some real world data on my setup after +/- 1,000 miles on the system:
'79 Bay Campmobile Delux Westfalia
stock auto 3 speed
2001 Subaru 2.2l n/a
aftermarket 210*f thermo switch to control fans (not ecu)
dual 14" pusher fans
1.5" rake front to back (front lower)
No boxing of sides or rear
No scoop
Fans kick on at about 207*F (thermo switch is a 210*F) and kick off at 195*. So far no overheating issues or other coolant issues. The fans are on a
little more then I would like. I am thinking about buying some pool noodles to box in the sides and rear temperarily to see if that makes a
difference or not.
I'll also be adding front and rear heaters this fall so we'll see how that impacts the system if at all. One thing at a time though so I can
determine specific impact based on specific changes.
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Nice to see some real data.
Boxing it in is a definite plus as it reduces recirculation when at a standstill. It also, when combined with a scoop, allows cruising without the
thermo fan coming on. If your thermo fans are coming on at cruise speeds they are being worked too much, and the failure of a fan will result in
rapid overheating on the highway.
An earlier poster mentioned a fighter aircraft being made faster through its radiator system. This is true, as he heated air expanded and was ejected
from the rear faster which resulted in a bit of thrust. I wouldn't expect to do as well with a belly radiator operated in ground effect!
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JVLRacing
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| posted on October 20th, 2011 at 08:53 AM |
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Theres one way and one way only....
Rad up front full stop!! keep it simple! and bigger rads aint better its all about flow of air, cooling of water
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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| posted on November 1st, 2011 at 04:05 PM |
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I "noodled" my cooling system recently . I intend it to be semi permanent. Sure they jam in there pretty tight but I have the feeling they'll blow
out at speed. I can't really see them doing much for hot/cold air separation with the gap that are still needed to be filled behind my radiator but
it should be interesting once I get around to making the plate for there. Only thing is I'll only be pulling the rad one more time so I'll be
hopefully finding a way to cram the second cooling fan in there totally skewing results anyway.
With the big rad and small motor it seems to do pretty well with only one thermo fan and no proper hot / cold separation but putting it to work on the
open road is probably a different matter entirely.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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