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 Jiffy
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| posted on June 1st, 2011 at 01:11 AM |
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Fuel Smell - 70 beetle
Hi Guys,
I seem to have a fairly strong fuel smell in the car that I can't get rid of. So far I've done;
-Fuel Cap - replace with aftermarket. Useless. Replaced with genuine german one.
-Filler Pipe - visual inspection, seemed ok.
-Large breather hose - replaced
-Small breather hose - replaced
-Small drain hose - replaced
-Fuel Tank - removed, visual inspection. Pumped compressed air in. Seemed ok.
-Tank to pump hose - visual inspection and air pressure tested. ok. Added hose clamps
-Pump to chassis hose - visual inspection and air pressure tested. ok. Added hose clamps
Pump - visual inspection. Seemed ok.
-Chassis to fuel filter hose - haven't removed yet, seems ok on the outside. Note: has no hose clamp on chassis end.
-Fuel filter - haven't removed yet, visual inspection. Seems ok.
-Fuel filter to carby hose - haven't removed yet, visual inspection. Seems ok.
I'm now wondering what the next step is? Is there anything I can look at without going to the extreme of replacing the one in the tunnel. If I do
have to replace it (or bypass it), has anyone got any advise for this?
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Sides
A.k.a.: Dave Sidery
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| posted on June 1st, 2011 at 06:43 AM |
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Yeah, I'd be suspecting the one in the tunnel unfortunately.... especially if the smell is strong inside the cabin, but not really detectable outside
the car.
Way to check would be to pull off the passenger side mounting plate of the pedal cluster, and if the fuel smell is stronger in there or if there's
any mositure, you've found your culprit. The two I've seen had failed up near the pedal cluster end... possibly damaged/bumped whatever during a
clutch cable replacement.
Mounting a new one would be tricky, but bypassing with a good hardline should be OK.
VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
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 Bizarre
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| posted on June 1st, 2011 at 12:50 PM |
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Maybe park uphill overnight
Next day take the gearbox coupling cover off under the back seat
Look in the tunnel using a torch and see it you can see any wetness
Stick your nose in there as well - smell should be worse
Mine was leaking where the rubber hose joins the solid one leaving the tunnel
Futue te ipsum!!!
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VolksVair
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| posted on June 1st, 2011 at 02:20 PM |
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Throw a match in the tunnel, if the car blows up, you fixed the problem
Adventure Before Dimentia
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Jiffy
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 02:14 PM |
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Hi Guys,
Just seeing if there's any further experience or suggestion in how this should be done?
Eg. any tips/tricks with replacing it in the tunnel, what's the best route/method if I'm bypassing the one in the tunnel, what size/material tubing
should I use? What's the best way to bend the tubing?
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ian.mezz
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 02:25 PM |
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just go to the brake shop and get a roll of steel brake pipe the same size as your pipe, about $20 and just run it under the car.
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 03:52 PM |
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I dout it that the fuel line is leaking ut if thats the case i just put an 8mm fuel line in my car last week.
Go in through the other frame horn. The tubing is called bundy tube.
Get about 3m of the stuff, and on one end get them to bend you a 90* bend with 6inches after the bend.
Find a grommet that goes over the tube securely and drill two appropriately sized holes. One at the rear in the opposite frame horn in the same place.
the other in the pan frame head ( i put mine on the side opposite the brake MC)
Where the rear framer horn hole has been drilled finely cut with an angle grinder two cuts about 4-5inches long from the hole to the rear of the pan
(engine ).
The cuts are as wide as the hole and parallel.
Push the newly cut tab down and feed the line in from the rear to the front. There is a little persuasion needed as you go through the framehorn in to
the tunnel. Push the tube all the way through the tunnel until it comes out the far end (pan head inspection plate).
Push the
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Aussie Dubbin
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 03:58 PM |
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Push the tue all the way in until the 90* end sits comfortable in the newly drilled hole at the rear.
Mark the bundy tube near the opening and measure how much you will need to go back to come out of the hole you drilled in the pan frame head.
Pull the tue back enough so that you can lift it out the hand brake lever hole (will need to remove)
Bend the tue at the appropriately measured distance so that you can go into your new hole and cut it off after the bend. I think you can work with
about 100mm abfte the bend. If you have a tube bender great, if not work slowly and support the bends.
All things going to plan you should e ale to push the new line into place att he rear while working it into the hole in the front. If it all sits in
place nicelythen wha-llay you're in business.
Weld up the frame horn cuts you made and insert a gromet front and rear and away you go.
I did mione while the pan was disassemb,ed , so it was pretty straight forward.
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Aussie Dubbin
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 03:59 PM |
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Seriously though,
i would put it down to a poor seal on the rubber/hose connections under the bonnet. Replace them all first it may sve you a lot of time and effort.
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VolksVair
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| posted on June 4th, 2011 at 07:37 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Bizarre
Maybe park uphill overnight
Mine was leaking where the rubber hose joins the solid one leaving the tunnel
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As Bizarre has said, the fuel hose where it attaches to the pipe that protrudes out from the left rear fork can leak and the fuel runs down the
outside of the pipe and into the tunnel.
Adventure Before Dimentia
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
Aircooled Master
Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138% - YIKES --
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| posted on June 4th, 2011 at 10:16 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Jiffy
Hi Guys,
I seem to have a fairly strong fuel smell in the car that I can't get rid of. So far I've done;
-Fuel Cap - replace with aftermarket. Useless. Replaced with genuine german one.
-Filler Pipe - visual inspection, seemed ok.
-Large breather hose - replaced
-Small breather hose - replaced
-Small drain hose - replaced
-Fuel Tank - removed, visual inspection. Pumped compressed air in. Seemed ok.
-Tank to pump hose - visual inspection and air pressure tested. ok. Added hose clamps
-Pump to chassis hose - visual inspection and air pressure tested. ok. Added hose clamps
Pump - visual inspection. Seemed ok.
-Chassis to fuel filter hose - haven't removed yet, seems ok on the outside. Note: has no hose clamp on chassis end.
-Fuel filter - haven't removed yet, visual inspection. Seems ok.
-Fuel filter to carby hose - haven't removed yet, visual inspection. Seems ok.
I'm now wondering what the next step is? Is there anything I can look at without going to the extreme of replacing the one in the tunnel. If I do
have to replace it (or bypass it), has anyone got any advise for this?
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Hi
wondering whether You have checked all the VW type cotton covered hose in under the bonnet...
it can leak but unless its wet with fuel You cannot see it...
that is why I won't use it..
the rubber filler hose going to the tank..
these hoses can seperate in layers so You cannot see where the fuel leaks... unless You have a full tank...
I would replace all the hoses Under the tank...
all the cotton covered stuff...
and replace it with some gates fuel hose ...
or similar...
Have You checked the breather hose ... the long one... under the bonnet? they are usually cracked these days..
once You have replaced ALL hoses....
then start looking at the pipe..
cheers
best of luck
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Jiffy
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| posted on July 5th, 2011 at 10:36 PM |
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Hi Guys,
Thanks for the great feedback!
The mystery is now solved. It appears it was the main line through the tunnel. I created a bypass from rubber hose that goes under the left side of
the body (where the body bolts to the pan).
After a day or so, enough for the fuel in the original line to evaporate, almost no fuel smell at all.
One thing I did notice though... I clogged up my carby a couple of times. The RAA couldn't figure out what was going on and I ended up getting a tow
home.
Spent about 4 hours that night stripping down my carby and cleaning it. That worked but it was still running like crap. Took it to the mechanic and he
got it running real sweet again.
A couple of days later, same problem. Back to the mechanic, a 10 minute job to pull off the filter, pull the jets out and give them a quick clean and
it was off again.
A bit dissapointing considering I just put a brand new filter in, but I guess there must have been some crap in the line.
All sorted now though, I'm a happy man. 
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