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posted on September 4th, 2011 at 09:23 PM
Exhaust Advice
Running into a few issues with a new exhaust I got for my Baja.
Here is the exhaust fitted to the new engine. The thing is massively high. It's probably half a metre higher than the one on the old engine.
I also run into some clearance issues with my barwork. With the LHS bolted up loosely the exhaust tip hits on the barwork on the RHS.
And this cradle is meant to fit over the exhaust tube next to it to support the muffler.
Overall I'm not very happy with the general fit and finish of the exhaust. It doesn't seem to fit together nicely, I think the tube size (1 5/8) is
too large for my needs, you can't fit washers onto the flanges to bolt in on because the welds are in the way. It sticks up waaaay too high in my
opinion and I don't really want to cut it or modify it because it's ceramic coated. The only plus side is that I got it for a very very good price
as a sort of a bonus with the engine.
I'm just chasing some ideas/guidance on what people think I should do. I could cut the tip off the exhaust and weld a new one on easily enough. but
even if I do get it to fit I'm going to have to make a engine cage the size of the Eiffel Tower to cover it, I don't think it's going to look very
nice.
I could, for the time being, put the exhaust off my old engine on and just run it for the time being. It looks like this.
Pros for this are that I know it fits inside the engine cage and it's a better sized exhaust tube at 1 1/2
Cons are that it's quite knocked around, will need a new muffler if I have any hope of keeping the new engine quiet and it has been crushed in a few
spots.
Are there any Baja exhausts that anyone would recommend to buy new?
Other thing I thought I might be able to do is put the old one on for the time being, buy some tube, mandrels and doughnuts and make a new one to
suit, then send it off to have it ceramic coated.
I'm still not sure what I want to do, someone please make up my mind for me.
Smiley
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matberry
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posted on September 4th, 2011 at 09:56 PM
Not an easy solution Smiley
Me, I'd keep the new one and mod the bar design totally, although could get interesting......
or next preferred
Trimill sidewinder, good for clearance and performance, but still may need some bar mods although it wont be as much as the first one and certainly
easier to 'cover' for our stupid modified vehicle laws. Muffler location gets interesting tho.
Last, keep the old style, better than cannons.
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posted on September 5th, 2011 at 04:56 PM
Quote:
Originally
posted by matberry
Me, I'd keep the new one and mod the bar design totally, although could get interesting......
Mod the bar design to what? I have to have the car up and completely drivable in the next 2-3 weeks if I have any hope of making it to Warwick. So a
major rework of the engine cage wasn't really on the cards.
Quote:
Originally
posted by matberry
or next preferred
Trimill sidewinder, good for clearance and performance, but still may need some bar mods although it wont be as much as the first one and certainly
easier to 'cover' for our stupid modified vehicle laws. Muffler location gets interesting tho.
Originally
posted by matberry
Last, keep the old style, better than cannons.
I was thinking I might just put the old one on for now with a new muffler. And that will do me to get the car running. Then I can sort an upgrade when
I get back from Warwick/Manx Club Fraser Trip.
Thanks for your advice Matt, your wisdom is always appreciated.
No one else has anything to add??
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posted on September 5th, 2011 at 06:50 PM
i'd go the new one. if you need a new muff on the old one, may as well bite the bullet IMHO
1 & 5/8 will suit the 1916. you don't need washers, so don't worry about that one. grab some of the 11mm brass nuts tho. not worth choking that
new engine for the sake of ceramic coating
.......and it's always interesting watching you fab sommething.
maybe flange it at the end of the 4 into 1, been thinking of a few benefits to this
.......that way for now you can spin the muffler out of the way of the cage, even if it means cutting off the tip and spinning it round a bit.....be
easy to remove out of the way when working on other engine needs too
..then later you could get a nice group of bends and get the muff back down lower and only have neato pipes up the top there for the thinking they
would be easier/neater to dress up with a guard.
muff's are the "consumable" part of the exhaust, so future changes will benefit from a flange here too
you will be suprprised how much difference a good system will make on that engine at both ends of the rpm range
the ceramic coating won't last long, discolouring etc, so it's only metal and you know how to treat that!
CHOP grind weld!
above all else!....you have proven you are not silly, once the first cut is done, no doubt you can make it work!
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posted on September 5th, 2011 at 07:04 PM
I say work with the header new one that you have. Can you cut the new exhasut after the 4-1? if so cut there and get some new pipe to place the mufler
in a better lacation, then you only need to get the mufler and associated pipe re coated not the whole thing. but good luck if it all needs to be
covered and look any good
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posted on September 5th, 2011 at 09:59 PM
You guys are absolutely right!
If I'm not going to use it it's going to be going to waste anyway. So I might as well cut it up!
WOAH. The cogs are ticking over in my head already. Going to have to get some flanges after work tomorrow
Damo. I was thinking that the exhaust might be better in 1 3/8 or 1 1/2 because the engine is basically a bus engine. Built for torque and no revs.
It's never going to go above 4 or 5 thousand rev so it doesn't need to breathe lots.
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posted on September 5th, 2011 at 10:15 PM
It's the merged system that makes your engine perform right through the rev range. 'Perform' not rev . Smooth power is what makes engines good to
drive, and more power for less throttle that gives cooler engine temps and fuel economy....I digress...
Here's mine with a similar height collector
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