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Author: Subject:  Autostick AtF hoses
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posted on September 14th, 2011 at 11:51 PM
Autostick AtF hoses


My ATF hoses are dripping and I haven't even filled up the AtF yet nor started the engine (engine install is next step). They are dripping at the trans so it's either shagged hoses or bad washers (copper). I know I can get them remanufactured using the old fittings, but does anyone know if they are available anywhere as a replacement part?

Cheers Pete.




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info.gif posted on September 15th, 2011 at 01:44 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by chillihilli
My ATF hoses are dripping and I haven't even filled up the AtF yet nor started the engine (engine install is next step). They are dripping at the trans so it's either shagged hoses or bad washers (copper). I know I can get them remanufactured using the old fittings, but does anyone know if they are available anywhere as a replacement part?

Cheers Pete.


they are no longer available ...
You may find new NOS ones in the USA ??
just as easy to have them made up of light hydraulic hose using ferrules to mach the hose...

LEE

All vacuum hose needed replacing too..

LEE




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posted on September 15th, 2011 at 11:15 AM



Thanks Lee. Any idea of cost on getting them made up?

I'm also going to explore making some up out of readily available components. A lot of parts available for turbo coolant applications (subaru etc). It may be suitable to get something we can literally bolt together. This seems to be an onging issue for Autostick owners.

I'm looking at http://www.atpturbo.com  and http://www.anplumbing.com. 

Do you know the spec of the hoses ie how much pressure they are under?

Cheers Pete.




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posted on September 15th, 2011 at 02:41 PM



Chilli,
Max 52 PSI. That is the only spec given, and it's maximum line pressure from ATF pump to converter (small long lose.)

I would as a first choice, re-use the fittings on the hose. Bling it up if you want...I have read/seen bad results from using anodised fitting everywhere. This may have been down to the choice of fitting (ie replacing EVERYTHING). VW manuals mention keeping the lines "jetted" just so. When I ripped mine apart they do indeed step down at certain points.

PS. Get that seal peined in? Sorry, but I have been devastated by a nasty lergy and have been feeling very unwell.

PPS. You have had those copper seals installed in the correct order?

Enjoy
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posted on September 15th, 2011 at 05:41 PM



Thanks for the response. Out of curiousity where are you located? ** scrap that I just got it **


Quote:
Originally posted by ctefeh
I would as a first choice, re-use the fittings on the hose. Bling it up if you want...I have read/seen bad results from using anodised fitting everywhere. This may have been down to the choice of fitting (ie replacing EVERYTHING). VW manuals mention keeping the lines "jetted" just so. When I ripped mine apart they do indeed step down at certain points.

It's never simple is it? I ordered a spare set of hoses, flex plate and torque converter just now so I'll have a full set of spares. That way I can keep the car running and work on replacement set at the same time.

Quote:

PS. Get that seal peined in? Sorry, but I have been devastated by a nasty lergy and have been feeling very unwell.


Yes thanks. I don't think it moved any, but I peined it at 12:00, 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00 from the top with centre punch. I'm confident it's not going anywhere.

Quote:

PPS. You have had those copper seals installed in the correct order?



Yes both the old and replacement trans had the washers on them. I am in the habit of immediately reinstalling any nuts or washers when I remove them to ensure everything goes the same way (and I don't lose parts). If it's loose - I bag it in a ziplock bag and label it. To make sure I have it right, I'll compare both transaxles tonight and make sure they are in the same order.
I had another look at it and it seems to have abated. It COULD be that I sloshed a bit of tranny fluid around trying to get the TC on. It's a heavy weight in a bastard position and I've got a bad back. Trying to install with one foot in the engine bay, one out, twisting and not banging your noggin' on the deck lid is quite a feat.




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posted on September 15th, 2011 at 11:13 PM



I found out a few interesting things looking at my hoses - one of them has already been rebuilt by Enzed, the other is VW OE. I think the VW is the one that is leaking. That said the ringbolt in the Enzed one actualy spins in the hose. Not sure if it's supposed to. I will check out the spare set being posted to me and make the call on whether to have them rebuilt.

Oh and one other thing - 40 ft lb is not the right torque on the bolts . I was trying to tighten those washers up and -SNAP! :dork: Lucky I have two trannies and was able to replace with a spare. I wrote down the dimensions of the bolt. I reckon I can get a replacement pair fairly easy. I cleaned up the washers with 400 wet/dry and reinstalled and will tighten them with my hand spanner.




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yes.gif posted on September 16th, 2011 at 01:35 AM



Hi Sean and Pete

I have never used a torque wrench on any bolts apart from very large ones like the axle nuts or engine head bolts etc...

Good to have spares.... Sean & I have spares of most things..
as they are going to get harder to find in the future..

I think most of My old hoses were redone ..
My pressure hose has hose clamps on it . I used hydraulic hose.
it had hose clamps on it when I got it..

cheers

LEE




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posted on September 16th, 2011 at 02:52 PM



Chilli,
Where did you get that 40Ft/Lbs from:borg:??? That's a ferocious amount for steel in magnesium!!

ALL the unions are supposed to be 25 Ft/Lbs.

Being an Enzed replacement it may indeed swivel.


HTH
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posted on September 20th, 2011 at 05:39 PM



Don't know where I got the 40lb figure from. Clearly was high on kero at the time.
I got the hoses rebuilt today by Enzed. They are both done in high temp high pressure parker hose (10mm) with push on fittings. Should be good for the term of it's unnatural life.

Whilst there I also picked up both 12 and 14 mm banjos in steel. The OE are alloy. Got crush washers as well. Bolts were less than $10, but the hoses were $130. The guy has done a great job and welded the fittings to a better push on barb than the original.




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info.gif posted on September 20th, 2011 at 06:02 PM



Hi

Yes they will last probably 50 years at least.. lol

Hydraulic fittings and hose are stupidly high in prices...

plus high labour costs..

[I made up My hoses when I was working as I used to do hydraulic hoses and the wholesale prices were very low]

LEE




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posted on September 20th, 2011 at 09:45 PM



Labour was $80 per hour and it was about an hour. That was the bulk of it. The rest being the hose price, fittings and GST.



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yes.gif posted on September 21st, 2011 at 01:56 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by chillihilli
Labour was $80 per hour and it was about an hour. That was the bulk of it. The rest being the hose price, fittings and GST.


You were lucky no carbon tax... :lol::lol:

but its another thing You won't have to do again...

cheers

LEE




- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]


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