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 sander288
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| posted on November 22nd, 2011 at 07:40 PM |
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More Neg Camber
Hi All,
Whilst i've been waiting for the motor to finish (which it is now...) i've been looking over the car seeing where some improvements can be made.
The back of my car is set-up so it has about -0.5 deg to -1 deg camber.
I've tried loading up the compensating bar a little more with longer bolts but they appear to just float below the bar and it never actually gets
loaded up. (have same comp spring as G Mackie)
Is there a way to get some more camber (like 2 - 2.5 neg degrees) without lowering the car too much; as i'm very mindful of not going too low.
Before I changed the spring plate bushings it was adjusted 3inners & 3outers on the torsion bars; but I think it may of come back to 2in 2out when
I replaced the bushings.
Thinking about going for an additional 2in & 2out.
Any help appreciated
Cheers
Shaun
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Special Air Service
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| posted on November 22nd, 2011 at 08:49 PM |
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Camber on a swingaxle is governed by the ride height / ride height is governed by the amount of camber you want. No avoiding it.
To load up your camber spring you will need to "restrain" the spring so that it cant float up & down on the shank of the bolt. Either using a
spacer, or changing the "bolt" to a "set screw" that is threaded all the way to the head. You can then positively locate the leaf spring with
another nut.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Brendan
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on November 22nd, 2011 at 09:39 PM |
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lower your gearbox so its closer to the floorpan forks 
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on November 22nd, 2011 at 11:17 PM |
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what about the cable and pulley setup the Fvees run? Greg Ward has one on his beetle. That would do the trick nicely.
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on November 22nd, 2011 at 11:31 PM |
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put big fat bars in the rear so you can stay lower, without as much sag... might end up being too stiff
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 matberry
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| posted on November 23rd, 2011 at 06:55 AM |
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Yep, lower it with bigger torsions so as to not require as much travel. Size of torsion depends on what spring plates/torsion length required and size
engine and weight of car etc..
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sander288
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| posted on November 23rd, 2011 at 12:32 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by pete wood
what about the cable and pulley setup the Fvees run? Greg Ward has one on his beetle. That would do the trick nicely.
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Good idea the old cable, but it does reduce travel quite a bit. I was hoping to tarmac rally the car in early classic so i wanted to keep some travel;
but if i do send it down the track route i would definatly put it on there.
I don't think bigger torsion bars are the go, as i'd loose the benefit of having a swing axle. Ideally I'd want to change over to a zero roll
set-up and leave the roll control to the front axle; but thats alot of time and money and not allowed by any rules except sport sedans!
Also the problem with stffer rear is it will stick to a point and then just let go; where as if it's gradual weight transfer it will stick
Suppose i'll just lower the thing and see how it goes, can always put it back up if it's too low.
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sander288
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| posted on November 24th, 2011 at 12:12 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Special Air Service
Camber on a swingaxle is governed by the ride height / ride height is governed by the amount of camber you want. No avoiding it.
To load up your camber spring you will need to "restrain" the spring so that it cant float up & down on the shank of the bolt. Either using a
spacer, or changing the "bolt" to a "set screw" that is threaded all the way to the head. You can then positively locate the leaf spring with
another nut.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Brendan
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Thats a great Idea using a 'set screw' type arrangement; you could then really "push" the axles up to make it work. I'll give that a go before I
go mucking about with the torsion bars!
The compensating bar would then be much like this one jsut a different way.
http://356enterprises.com/home/?page_id=38
Thanks Brendan.
Cheers
Shaun
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colin
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| posted on November 24th, 2011 at 05:21 PM |
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About 1 deg neg on the rear sounds about ideal to me.
Remember the car squats and increases the neg as you accelerate, so you get more neg.
The more neg at acceleration the less contact patch on the road which eqauls less traction.
Cheers Col
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Special Air Service
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| posted on November 24th, 2011 at 08:00 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by sander288
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Special Air Service
Camber on a swingaxle is governed by the ride height / ride height is governed by the amount of camber you want. No avoiding it.
To load up your camber spring you will need to "restrain" the spring so that it cant float up & down on the shank of the bolt. Either using a
spacer, or changing the "bolt" to a "set screw" that is threaded all the way to the head. You can then positively locate the leaf spring with
another nut.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Brendan
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Thats a great Idea using a 'set screw' type arrangement; you could then really "push" the axles up to make it work. I'll give that a go before I
go mucking about with the torsion bars!
The compensating bar would then be much like this one jsut a different way.
http://356enterprises.com/home/?page_id=38
Thanks Brendan.
Cheers
Shaun
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Yeah, hoping to build somehting very similar for my beetle.
Make sure you show us what you end up with.
[size=5] Calling all NSW Mid North Coast Veedubbers
Click Below [/size]
[size=6]Mid North
Coast VW [/size] |
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sander288
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Posts: 1404
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| posted on November 26th, 2011 at 05:40 AM |
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Getting some threaded 1/2 " rod and some Nyloc nuts this weekend; it's just hard to find good UNF stuff - looking at McGill Motorsport on an ebay
store
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