| [ Total Views: 898 | Total Replies: 19 | Thread Id: 94103 ] |
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 Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on December 1st, 2011 at 05:47 PM |
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pinging!!! Argh need to understand how to change
Hi All, i'm just about to start looking into pinging. I have got my engine in and running and it is all out of tune im sure.
History.
It was in a 72 super so 1600 DP
Pulled out and put in buggy in 2007 and ran spasmodically for about two weeks but never on the road.
(Replaced pushrod seals at this time)
Been sitting on bench since then.
Last weekend went into my project bug.
Have replaced spark plug leads, points, rotor cap...
I will need to tune carb and timimng
I have currently set timing to about 7.5 BTDC using circuit tester light off neg coil.
I have never had pinging before, it sounds like a ball bearing bouncing around inside the block (horrible).
*What should i set it at? best method without a strobe?
vacuum advance dissy, stock pict 34 carb.
Answers or reading direction would be appreciated. Cheers.
PS ITIS SO GREAT TO FINALLY HAVE HER TICK OVER AGAIN!!!!
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on December 1st, 2011 at 05:51 PM |
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Sure its pinging? Does it only do it under load and when the engine is warm?
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 1st, 2011 at 06:00 PM |
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What octane fuel are you running?
Some cars will ping if you're not running a higher enough octane. I know the first engine in my baja didn't like anything less than 95.
Smiley 
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Joel
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| posted on December 1st, 2011 at 08:54 PM |
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Is it a degreed pulley or just a stock one with notches?
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on December 1st, 2011 at 09:03 PM |
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Hi
I have Chinese crank and a Scat pulley in my sons bug, not sure which one is incorrect but after doing a positive stop test I found that my timing
marks were 6 degrees out.
Are you sure your pulley is marked correctly?
Do you have fresh fuel in the tank?
Steve
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on December 1st, 2011 at 10:09 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Aussie Dubbin
Hi All, i'm just about to start looking into pinging. I have got my engine in and running and it is all out of tune im sure.
History.
It was in a 72 super so 1600 DP
Pulled out and put in buggy in 2007 and ran spasmodically for about two weeks but never on the road.
(Replaced pushrod seals at this time)
Been sitting on bench since then.
Last weekend went into my project bug.
Have replaced spark plug leads, points, rotor cap...
I will need to tune carb and timimng
I have currently set timing to about 7.5 BTDC using circuit tester light off neg coil.
I have never had pinging before, it sounds like a ball bearing bouncing around inside the block (horrible).
*What should i set it at? best method without a strobe?
vacuum advance dissy, stock pict 34 carb.
Answers or reading direction would be appreciated. Cheers.
PS ITIS SO GREAT TO FINALLY HAVE HER TICK OVER AGAIN!!!!
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Hi
I have never heard an engine ping [or pinking] but its how You described....
Fresh Fuel is a MUst... fuel is only good for about 3 months
I think I read...
Can You turn the distributor so it stops pinging...??
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on December 2nd, 2011 at 07:28 AM |
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Ill have to have another look tonight guys. Thanks for all the feedback. It must not be pinging, because the car is starionary. I hope there is not
someting in the heads!!!the exhaust outlet has been covered most of the time. i'll be able to give it a good look at over the weekend. What timing
setting can i set it at and should i do that cold or hot? i dont have access to a strobe at the moment. It has been a while since i have done any
timing or tunig, but last time i did, the car fired into life about 1/4 of a second after i turned the key, this is not. It is turning over for some
time before it finally gets up enough courage to turn over.
I think i just need to have a good fiddle with it this weekend. I know of a few websites with tuining advise so ill start there.
Fuel is New.
It is a cheap degree pulley, so maybe i need to check actual TDC.
Maybe higher octane fuel could have been nice its only standard.
Sorry about the pinging suggestion, need to re think.
Cheers
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The_Bronze.
A.k.a.: Bronze
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| posted on December 2nd, 2011 at 08:49 AM |
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Hi Aussie,
I'm learning about timing myself. I bought the Bugme Video Series.
Video 1 has a great section on how to set the timing.
With a vacuum advance dizzy you should be setting it at 7 1/2 degrees BTDC as you said you have. I use my multimeter but the guy in the video did
static timing using his test light. Hook the positive up to your coil +ve and ground the negative. You should have 1 volt when away from connection.
Turn you motor so your rotor button is before #1 TDC. Set you crank pulley at 7 1/2 degrees and then twist your dizzy until the test light lights up.
Roll the pulley back and the advance it and see if your test light lights up when you hit 7 1/2. Keep adjusting until you do.
There is no harm in twisting the dizzy while the motor is at idle to see if the noise is caused by an advanced timing issue etc. Usually pinging
occurs with shit fuel or a really really hot motor that is under load.
I have pinging at the moment which is why I'm reading here. I've done everything I'm supposed to but still it pings and is getting too hot. I think
my issue is its time for a rebuilds. Compression tester arrives in a week so we will see.
Best of luck. I hope my advice helps some.
Bronze.
[size=4]Bronze.[/size]
Rathmines, Lake Macquarie, NSW.
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coletrickle
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| posted on December 2nd, 2011 at 09:00 AM |
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Pinking sounds like a rattle,so if as you describe it sounds like a ball bearing smashing into stuff thats where id be looking.
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vlad01
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| posted on December 2nd, 2011 at 09:14 AM |
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here is my engine pinging. The whole engine is toast!
http://youtu.be/OGCcTw3j0fY
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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AA003
A.k.a.: Phill
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| posted on December 2nd, 2011 at 09:27 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Aussie Dubbin
Maybe higher octane fuel could have been nice its only standard.
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There's your problem.
Don't use third world fuel,
I read it on samba, so it must be correct.
Sometimes Volkswagen dealers sell spare parts. Amazing isn't it!
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on December 2nd, 2011 at 09:56 AM |
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hmmm. i have the original fuel sticker on my fuel filler door suggesting 91 RON for flat stock original motor.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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AA003
A.k.a.: Phill
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| posted on December 2nd, 2011 at 10:09 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bajachris88
hmmm. i have the original fuel sticker on my fuel filler door suggesting 91 RON for flat stock original motor.
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Our 91 is rarely 91.
I read it on samba, so it must be correct.
Sometimes Volkswagen dealers sell spare parts. Amazing isn't it!
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toplessbug
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on December 2nd, 2011 at 11:43 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by AA003
| Quote: | Originally
posted by bajachris88
hmmm. i have the original fuel sticker on my fuel filler door suggesting 91 RON for flat stock original motor.
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Our 91 is rarely 91.
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are you serious,what do you base that statement on?
Don't argue with an idiot; people watching may not be able to tell the difference.
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vlad01
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| posted on December 2nd, 2011 at 12:49 PM |
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actually thats very true. fuel quality varies considerably.
When I thought I was doing a good thing by going from e10 which my whole fuel system was clean and worked fine for numver of years.
then when I took everything on the whole fuel system apart to change the worn out fuel pump in the tank and found it to be spotless everywhere.
Also changed the injectors for the sake of it to new ones.
At the point I decided to go to 95 premium from there on.
1.5 years later...... catastrophic failure of the fuel system.
Had to get new tank, corrosion, sludge (red and brown stuff, dirt and hoses fell to bits)
New pump (40k old genuine) check valve no longer worked and the body of it was corroded.
Fuel filter was blocked
fuel injectors f**ked, leaking and poor spray pattern (also 40k old)
just check these pics.
231k donor pump pickup out of a 91 VP berlina
My 40k 1.5year old pick up
231k 91 VP left, Mine 40k right (it used to be white and note the rubber plug is deteriorated and only saw 95 prem)
40k old left, 231k 20 year old right. you can see all these brown splotches on the concrete, they dripped out of the 40k pump.
also the gaskets and hoses fell to bits.
Morel of the story is: today you don't get what you paid for, you get ripped off regardless. And fuel these days is shit and sometimes worse the more
you pay for it.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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toplessbug
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| posted on December 2nd, 2011 at 02:31 PM |
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we were talking about octane rating,not additives,they are 2 quite different beasts. The additives and contaminates (quality) used in whatever fuel
you used are probably the cause of what you are seeing,nothing to do with octane rating
Don't argue with an idiot; people watching may not be able to tell the difference.
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vlad01
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| posted on December 2nd, 2011 at 07:08 PM |
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yes but the octane rating varies according to fuel quality.
you could be buying nice and good fuel where its advertised RON is as it is, where sometime you could be buying poor quality or contaminated fuel and
its actual RON is far less than its advertised RON.
You can feel this sometime after filling up, the car just lacks power and response, then you run it out and get the "same" fuel from a different
servo and all the sudden the car springs back into life.
I know of a few people that got engine damage from underperforming fuel.
Its fact! fuel ain't fuels. and the variation of quality and octane has gotten many times worse in the last 3-5 years.
We are paying top dollar for 3rd world quality fuel.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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donn
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| posted on December 2nd, 2011 at 08:36 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vlad01
yes but the octane rating varies according to fuel quality.
you could be buying nice and good fuel where its advertised RON is as it is, where sometime you could be buying poor quality or contaminated fuel and
its actual RON is far less than its advertised RON.
You can feel this sometime after filling up, the car just lacks power and response, then you run it out and get the "same" fuel from a different
servo and all the sudden the car springs back into life.
I know of a few people that got engine damage from underperforming fuel.
Its fact! fuel ain't fuels. and the variation of quality and octane has gotten many times worse in the last 3-5 years.
We are paying top dollar for 3rd world quality fuel.
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I'd have to agree with that, recently while the wench was in the garage I noticed it was running a real low on fuel, almost out, engine running fine,
went down to the servo in the Soob and got a 5 litre container of fuel and dumped it in the tank of the wench, took it for a run that arvo and after
about 2 k it was running like a goat, droped into another servo and put in about 30 litres of fuel, couple of k down the road it starts puring like a
kitten again, I reckon it had to be the 5 litres of fuel I put in her and both lots werel 95. 
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
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greedy53
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| posted on December 3rd, 2011 at 05:58 AM |
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use the best fuel you can afford and there is a pinging sound that's when the engine is running bad fuel or timing is out it will
destroy your motor is not sorted
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on December 3rd, 2011 at 11:18 AM |
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Timing sorted and running much better. Thanks for all your helpful suggestion.
Now I have got the carny out of tune. Shouldn't have touched it.
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