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 shokwave2
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| posted on December 16th, 2011 at 03:16 AM |
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Replacing front transmission mount...any tips?
After finding out that the loud 'thud' noise is due to my gearbox moving while accelerating, having no 1st or 2nd gear anymore, and being able to
move the gearbox with my hand, i will be attempting to replace the front mount over the weekend.
Now i've removed the engine numerous times, replaced rear axle boots and replaced the rear mounts before, but have never had to touch the gearbox.
I'm after any tips, do's, don'ts, don't forget to's, must have's, etc to make the job easier and smoother.
I have numerous books on hand and have copy of the BUGME video ready to go, so is this enough info?
Cheers
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 matberry
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| posted on December 16th, 2011 at 07:31 AM |
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Your in for a treat......painful job getting the tranny back far enough depending on vehicle.
IRS or swing, beetle?
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
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 vw54
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| posted on December 16th, 2011 at 12:48 PM |
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it can be done with the engine in
BUT i would pull it to make it much quicker and easier job
Make sure you do all 3 MOUNTS
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shokwave2
A.k.a.: Matt Hamilton
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| posted on December 16th, 2011 at 03:30 PM |
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61 Beetle, swing axle and i replaced the rear mounts about 6 months ago. I can usually have the engine on the floor within 20 minutes, so how many
hours will this roughly take a first timer?
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grumble
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| posted on December 16th, 2011 at 06:28 PM |
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As Dave said pull the engine,let the gearshift rod go,undo the big bolts on the mount bracket,then using a couple of beetle jacks between the body
near the front mount and the axle tubes,push the trans back carefully and evenly just enough to get the mounting out.(I suggest that you tie the jacks
in place to prevent them slipping)slide the new mounting into place keeping your appendages(fingers, toes,hands,head etc clear),release the jacks
evenly & carefully lining everything up as you do.I have used this method a few times but I MUST stress be careful,make sure the car is supported
on proper vehicle stands and under no circumstances put your fingers or hands between any items whilst working.The other alternative is release the
axle tube mounting bolts to allow the trans to slip back.
No resopnsibility taken for any user of this advice as I am not in control of your work practices. Cheers Les
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ragged
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| posted on December 17th, 2011 at 09:32 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by grumble
As Dave said pull the engine,let the gearshift rod go,undo the big bolts on the mount bracket,then using a couple of beetle jacks between the body
near the front mount and the axle tubes,push the trans back carefully and evenly just enough to get the mounting out.(I suggest that you tie the jacks
in place to prevent them slipping)slide the new mounting into place keeping your appendages(fingers, toes,hands,head etc clear),release the jacks
evenly & carefully lining everything up as you do.I have used this method a few times but I MUST stress be careful,make sure the car is supported
on proper vehicle stands and under no circumstances put your fingers or hands between any items whilst working.The other alternative is release the
axle tube mounting bolts to allow the trans to slip back.
No resopnsibility taken for any user of this advice as I am not in control of your work practices. Cheers Les
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Disconnect the battery, clutch and acc cables too. But as Dave said, remove the engine and replace the rear cradle mounts at the same time.
Cheers Dave
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Bizarre
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| posted on December 17th, 2011 at 12:36 PM |
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Consider a Berg / Porsche style brace
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VW-Volkswagen-Beetle-BERG-PORSCHE-STYLE-GEARBOX-BR...
I am sick of cheap mounts
I have replaced and had the same issue come back within months - twice
This WILL fix it
Yes it will "harshen up" the vibrations through the car - but I am now use to it and I STILL have a great mount
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Camo
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| posted on December 17th, 2011 at 02:44 PM |
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If you fit this mid mount (which I have waiting to go on) is the original nose mount also required.
Only reason I'm asking is that I am putting a later box into my early beetle and their nose mounts are different and I was going to swap them around.
What's ya thoughts please, Kev.
P.S. sorry for the hi-jacking of this thread.
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on December 17th, 2011 at 03:13 PM |
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Defiantly go the mid mount. Stops a lot of flex and move t. So add a support brace under engine supported at bumper supports. Stops engine pulling
down and breaking things
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Bizarre
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| posted on December 17th, 2011 at 05:52 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Camo
If you fit this mid mount (which I have waiting to go on) is the original nose mount also required.
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No - - a working mount is not required.
My front mount is totally shagged (after a whole 2 months)
I have the V Force version and my gear changes have been fine for almost 2 years
Futue te ipsum!!!
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shokwave2
A.k.a.: Matt Hamilton
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| posted on December 17th, 2011 at 06:35 PM |
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Do these braces require welding or other modifications to install? Where do these bolt to underneath? I guess it would be easier to just install a
brace under there instead of removing the engine, gearbox, etc to swap a $15 part.
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Bizarre
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| posted on December 17th, 2011 at 07:17 PM |
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yes - you need to weld the "tabs" on
yes - your car is a LOT more "harsh"
yes - you have NO more worries about front gear box mounts
Futue te ipsum!!!
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matberry
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| posted on December 18th, 2011 at 07:11 AM |
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Tip; loosen the spring plate-axle bolts to allow movement of the trans rearward, don't forget to mark thier location so they can be refitted the
same.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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shaihulud
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| posted on December 21st, 2011 at 12:47 PM |
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This is one of the things that has annoyed me about Beetles for years.
It would have been very easy to have changed that mount back in the 1930s, to one that can be replaced without having to move the engine etc.
Can you image the language of the first mechanic who crawled under a Kubelwagen in the mud of a WW2 battle field and saw what he needed to do to
change the front mounting?
I belive that the Type 3 has a better mounting.
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grumble
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| posted on December 21st, 2011 at 12:59 PM |
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The early mounts didn't have the tongue to mount into the frame.
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shokwave2
A.k.a.: Matt Hamilton
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| posted on December 30th, 2011 at 04:27 PM |
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Done.  Finally finished the job, in between packing to move house.
I played it safe and followed the BUGME video, removing the whole transmission and dropping it to the floor so i could check for any other damage.
Wasn't as hard as i thought it would be. A few things slowed me down though: waiting for a borrowed 19mm wrench (mine's gone missing), and then the
19mm axle/torsion plate bolts were stubborn and took about an hour of hammering, spraying with WD40 and swearing to come loose. Other than that it was
a smooth repair.
I dropped the engine and transmission 2 days ago, sussed out the parts needed, drove up to Vintage Vee Dubs yesterday, and replaced it all today. At
VVD's i picked up a front transmission mount, a nose cone to chassis rubber boot, some leads and a quiet pack exhaust to replace the rusted and
beat-up Phat Boy exhaust which i was running.
Now the only thing left is to get the reverse lock-out plate in the right spot so i can get all gears. I can find 1st but when i shift it goes to 4th,
not 2nd. Or i can move the lockout plate to find 2nd, and take off in 2nd, shift to 3rd and 4th, but it won't find 2nd or 1st when down-shifting.I
had this problem last year and took my ages to find the sweet spot. On the upside, my 4th gear doesn't pop out anymore!
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