| [ Total Views: 843 | Total Replies: 12 | Thread Id: 94710 ] |
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 DubbyDo
A.k.a.: Dave
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| posted on January 10th, 2012 at 05:01 PM |
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Rear hub oil leak
Pulled off the wheels to do a full checkover before going over the pits and found oil all over the LHR drum/axle tube. Brake master is full so Im
thinking its not a wheel cyl leak. Is there a seal that stops oil running down the inside of the axle tube from the gearbox? Thanks in advance
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on January 10th, 2012 at 05:22 PM |
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Hi
the Oil has to flow down the axle tubes to lubricate the rear wheel bearings...
so, You need a new rear wheel seal kit: part no: 311 598 051
contains: oil seal- large & small o rings- gasket- washer and split pin..
and You also need to refill the gearbox with oil...
Hypoid 90 gear oil
cheers
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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DubbyDo
A.k.a.: Dave
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| posted on January 10th, 2012 at 05:38 PM |
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Thanks heaps, if Im going to pull the hub off I mind as well do the bearings too. Cheers mate
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on January 10th, 2012 at 05:48 PM |
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Save yourself a hard task of trying to get the rear hub nut off 36 mm. Go buy or borrow the right socket in 3/4" drive no smaller!!! And at least 5
foot of firm ( not bendy) leverage. Once you have that the hubs will be off in under five minutes
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DubbyDo
A.k.a.: Dave
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| posted on January 10th, 2012 at 06:43 PM |
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Ive got a 3/4 rattle gun that should persuade them off! mind you sometimes the serenity is not to be messed with. Might just bring home the breaker
bar. Thanks for the heads up
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on January 11th, 2012 at 12:42 AM |
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Mine went BANG when I was jumping up & down on 2 metres of water pipe over a 3/4 breaker bar..
snapped off a new 1/2 inch sidchrome breaker bar...
to do the 36mm nut up to the required torque...
use the 2 metres of water pipe [or about 5-6 foot]
to tighten it...
if its not done up that tight , the brake drum will move on the axle splines which eventually will wear the splines on the brake drum away...
cheers
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on January 11th, 2012 at 05:31 AM |
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get 4 of the axle seal kits.....they can be a bit ricky to get the hang of, hence the spares.
may as well do the axle boots whilst the oil is out of it (get GERMAN ones!!!)
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DubbyDo
A.k.a.: Dave
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| posted on January 12th, 2012 at 09:02 PM |
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everything is on its way from CIP, I still cant believe how much cheaper it is to do up a bug compared to a Torana or Kingswood!!!
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on January 12th, 2012 at 09:07 PM |
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Now Torana etc parts are rare wheas VW parts are still being made..
VW parts were much more expensive 10+ years ago when most parts were NOS and rare...
Now they are being made again... lol
VW Seal kits are very cheap from the USA...
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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shaihulud
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| posted on January 15th, 2012 at 12:30 AM |
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Get an Empi whack spanner. It's designed to be hit with a big hammer. Do not have the gearbox in gear. You don't want that energy in the gear box.
Have the wheels on the ground and the hand brake on. Then hit it really hard with a really big hammer.
If your wheels have a big deep dish, fit a stock wheel there. You'll see why.
Also use lots of Aviation Goo all over the gaskets and other bits when you put the new seal in.
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on January 15th, 2012 at 12:48 AM |
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if You use the hammer and tool on the nut...
How do you get it back to specs...>??
when You replace the nut...
as they need to be done up very tight
something like 217ft lbs or more...
back to a 5ft piece of pipe on 3/4 drive bar...
I always use Pematex gasket cement or similar on all Gaskets..
both sides..
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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toonyboy
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| posted on January 15th, 2012 at 12:54 AM |
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Very useful info (regarding retightening the axle nut.
I am halfway through the same process, I am having trouble removing the outer spacer. Not sure how to tackle this.
Any tips would be helpful. Thanks.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on January 15th, 2012 at 02:33 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 68AutoBug
if You use the hammer and tool on the nut...
How do you get it back to specs...>??
when You replace the nut...
as they need to be done up very tight
something like 217ft lbs or more...
back to a 5ft piece of pipe on 3/4 drive bar...
I always use Pematex gasket cement or similar on all Gaskets..
both sides..
LEE
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There's no need for a 5 foot length of bar to go to 217ftlb.
Most 1/2 drive torque wrenches go to 250ftlb and are about 2 feet long. With moderate pressure it's very easy to do them up to a small torque like
217ftlb.
Smiley 
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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