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Author: Subject:  Rust Repairs
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posted on June 27th, 2012 at 08:31 AM



Cheap job...you get what you pay for. The end.



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posted on June 27th, 2012 at 08:39 AM



If that is your only problem, I wouldnt worry - I know at least one other person with the same problem.

If it really drives you nuts get some floor section donor or new floor and have it welded in later on.

If the rest is now rot free - its all good.




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posted on June 27th, 2012 at 10:48 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by 68BUS
Baxis,
If the work is done and you are not happy with it, take a few steps to correct / prevent further damage. (As it is you got it cheap so its not the end of the world).

Based on the photos the weld quality and penetration seem like they will be okay, would have to check the underside to be sure. But kombis are funny beasts, unlike beetles that have a chassis that un bolts from the body and provides the car with its strength, the kombi's bodu actually provides much of the cars strength which is why it is welded to the ladder frame. So if you now have a bunch of floppy panels it may eventualy lead to your door closures being out of what and sticking etc...

The floor repair should have had grooves in it as per original for strength, best bet would be to weld (or get them to as it is a defect) some 25x25x1.5-3mm angle on underneath it to strengthen it right up without being visible. Then for all the other repairs, get a bunch of fish oil or penetrol from Suapcheap and flood in behind sills, bottom of doors, lower front clip etc... They may not have used weld through primer in these areas. (And even if they have, if you want the van for more than 3 years it is worth doing).

But ultimately dont despair, just work with what you have to give you a safe and functioning van.


thanks for all the responses.

i think a few of you would be suprised who has actually done the work he is well respected within the "Kombi community".

how much should i have paid to have a decent piece of metal welded into the floor or even if i had provided the repro pieces myself like i was going to originally?

no all the other rot hasn't gone, the rest of it was "bogged" other than under the front valance and the jacking points which does look like a good job. The rest i feel needs to be done again before i look at having a cheapish respray done.

so do i take it back and ask him to fix it or should i just go elsewhere?

please try and keep the comments positive.....just telling me "its a cheap job end of" isnt really constructive :)
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posted on June 27th, 2012 at 11:10 AM



That is a crap job full stop. It doesnt matter if they are a well respected place or not.
It also depends on what you asked for?
If you said you wanted the metal replaced as cheap as possible then that is what you got.
Its about 3-4 hours to replace that floor section with the correct repro part.
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posted on June 27th, 2012 at 11:20 AM



i think a few of you would be suprised who has actually done the work he is well respected within the "Kombi community".



Tell us and see if we are surprised;)




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posted on June 27th, 2012 at 11:38 AM



i dont really want to start bad mouthing anyone to be honest, im new to this whole thing and dont want to start burning bridges just yet.

ive emailed him and await a response.

also could anyone tell me why it would have been registered as a 2 seater when it has 3 seats with belts in the front and 2 fixed seatbelts in the rear?
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posted on June 27th, 2012 at 02:40 PM



If its a camper? Most of them were reg as two seaters, you would need to get it engineered( depending on what state you are in) for it to carry more people.
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posted on June 27th, 2012 at 03:16 PM



if all the factory brackets and seat belt holes with captive nuts are there just bolt all the original seats in and belts and get it ammended by a blue slip inspector if in nsw , done it a few times
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posted on June 27th, 2012 at 04:53 PM



What Klaus said, A lot of campers have rock and roll beds in the back with seat belts but there are only a few sellers / types that have ADR (Aust Design Regs) approval. Kustom Kombi on the goldly has them for about $1000.

You would be the best judge of how happy you are with their work. If you are happy with what you got for the price then go to them and let them know that you are not happy with certain elements and can they do them in a different manner.

I would still very much recommend the use of some sort of treatment in the sills etc, We should all being doing that. If you have a lot of bog maybe go something that dries fully like penetrol ($13 for a spraypack from bunnings).

And don;t pay attention to people that have nothing better to do than bitch about things. You get them everywhere.




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posted on June 27th, 2012 at 05:03 PM



thanks again.

mechanic is now saying i required it doing like that due to my budget. not true....i said i would supply the floor panels but he wanted to use his own pieces so he didnt have to fanny about making them fit.....i tried to go with what he suggested to make it easier for him, not wanting to upset him but i wasnt expecting a shoddy result at the end by doing so.

he has offered to shrink the metal in the floor to get rid of the "can"ing is this a good solution?

ive spoken to the blue slip guys who said to take it back out to them to check it.....should be able to have it changed to a 3/5 seater on re-inspection providing they were originally available like that.
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posted on June 27th, 2012 at 06:00 PM



Here is the panel you need,

Cab Floor Repair Drivers side 73-79

Right side cab floor repair for late bays

$79.00

or

Cab Floor Repair Drivers side 68-72

Right side cab floor repair

$79.00

from The Bus Stop

It should take no more than 2-3 hours to fit, that includes removing the old metal, done this a number of times

Its OK to say just get them to put some angle iron underneath it, but that is so dodgy, get it done properly the first time, when or if you come to sell it and the buyer sees angle iron or flat steel in there they will wonder what the rest is like?
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posted on August 13th, 2012 at 01:04 PM



what can i say other than this guy is a complete shyster.
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posted on August 13th, 2012 at 07:51 PM



If it makes you feel any better I had a rubbish rust repair done by a company that I thought was a reputable business in Blacktown. There are so many dodgy rust repair people in the industry.
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posted on August 14th, 2012 at 03:40 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by cam070
If it makes you feel any better I had a rubbish rust repair done by a company that I thought was a reputable business in Blacktown. There are so many dodgy rust repair people in the industry.


thanks mate, its not just the rust reapairs that were done badly it was the charging me for $1600 worth of engine work to then be told the engines screwed after he'd done it not to mention my exhaust and tow bar being removed without authorisation.

the lies about putting fuel in but the fuel guage not working....it works when i put fuel in and calling me an idiot because im not a bloody mechanic.

Karma is due to pay him a visit.
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posted on August 14th, 2012 at 04:04 PM



I fail to see how you can say BEWARE of a business

when you state you have no skills or knowledge on how to do this job, including mechanical knowledge

Yes you should have got a some sort of firm ball park quote but dont critise a business for not doing a job

Rust repairs are a CAN OF WORMS no one can quote to the exact cent when a car has not been fully stripped of paint and rust in a chemical bath




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posted on August 14th, 2012 at 04:15 PM



erm yeah but it looks as if apprentice 'visually impared' freddy worked thru smoko
very ordinary




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posted on August 14th, 2012 at 04:34 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by vw54
I fail to see how you can say BEWARE of a business

when you state you have no skills or knowledge on how to do this job, including mechanical knowledge

Yes you should have got a some sort of firm ball park quote but dont critise a business for not doing a job

Rust repairs are a CAN OF WORMS no one can quote to the exact cent when a car has not been fully stripped of paint and rust in a chemical bath


quite easily from all the comments i have received from this thread and a number of other forums not to mention the NRMA breakdown guy, the tow truck driver and a couple of local panel beaters.

im not quite sure how you can be backing this business other than if he's a mate?

the work has been done to a poor standard, there are still holes in the floor and windscreen which should have been sorted......thats not even getting to the mechanical side and the things gone missing from my bus either.....

are you saying this is a good standard of work?
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posted on November 25th, 2012 at 04:04 PM



Don't mean to resurrect this thread, but apparently I lurk too much and haven't posted enough to PM.

Basixs, I'm over in Quakers Hill, presumably not too far from you if you took it to blacktown to be done.
If you need small welding jobs done, i'm happy to help you out.

I'm not a panel beater, a painter or a mechanic, just a fellow enthusiast.
But hell, I could fix the floor better than that.

Feel free to shoot me an email at adamstuart.h@gmail.com if you need a hand.
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posted on March 2nd, 2013 at 01:34 PM



Sorry to see your not happy with the work it does seem to look like a rough rush job. A tip I've learnt from a similar experience is if the engine is broke take it to a mechanic, If the interior is torn take it to a trimmer, if there's a dent or rust take it to a body shop. There's heaps places which deal with basically servicing or mechanical road worthy issues which is great that's there bread and butter. Some of these places will turn there hand to things like welding but don't expect a perfect result it's not really there trade. Sometimes they will bite off more than they can Handel and rush these jobs. I've seen it a million times the boss will say can you rebuild the carbs and weld the floor in this bus for the customer, and the mechanic thinks wtf I'm a mechanic not a fabricator welder. So from the start its never going to see the love from him. The carbs will work a treat though and the care factor for the rust repair is zero. Sometimes the boss will take the money and run without caring if there's a basic level of skill for all of the works undertaken.

Basically don't ask a plumber to bake you a birthday cake




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