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Author: Subject:  swing axle (anti roll)
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posted on July 8th, 2012 at 12:01 PM
swing axle (anti roll)


hi there what can i do to stop rear wheel from lifting when cornering hard,and making me roll.What works ,how much and where do i get it from.Ive been having a bit too much fun and have had a few scary moments
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posted on July 8th, 2012 at 02:51 PM



Waiting for the Dave Birchall response :crazy::crazy::crazy::crazy:

And Greg Mackie to get involved :tu::tu::tu::tu:

How big is this can of worms :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

Sorry, I know this doesn't give you an answer but the fun may just be starting.

I have an aftermarket heavy sway bar on the front (also car lowered) and it is great for lack of body roll.




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posted on July 8th, 2012 at 03:57 PM



Well a camber compensator will help alot and not deteriorate the ride quality

I added one and took some ride height out of the rear and I went from this at the 2010 Supersprint

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/sander19671988/5.jpg
to this at the 2011 Supersprint...

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/sander19671988/DSC01702.jpg

Now we just need Steve Carter trying to preach the values of a strut front and double jointed rear! :smilegrin:

Cheers

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Swing-axles FTW :!:

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/sander19671988/4201806984_a2d051587f_o.jpg
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posted on July 8th, 2012 at 03:58 PM



the other thing people are doing is adding HUGE torsion bars like 28mm or 30mm to the back to stiffen it up, but this can break away without much warning...



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posted on July 8th, 2012 at 03:59 PM



Damn the changing of the shorts would have occured after that first pic.



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posted on July 8th, 2012 at 05:29 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 66deluxe
Damn the changing of the shorts would have occured after that first pic.


To be honest I never thought it was that bad until I saw the pic!

And it's Goulbrun too cold for shorts! :lol:




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Swing-axles FTW :!:

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/sander19671988/4201806984_a2d051587f_o.jpg
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posted on July 8th, 2012 at 06:21 PM



ok thanks ,so a camber compensator is the go .Where did you get it or what would you say is a goodn,if yours is unavailable
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posted on July 8th, 2012 at 06:25 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by RestoKäfer
hi there what can i do to stop rear wheel from lifting when cornering hard,and making me roll.What works ,how much and where do i get it from.Ive been having a bit too much fun and have had a few scary moments

Are go going to Valla? If so, I could give you some help with how to improve the swing-axle set up. It's too involved to do it on here.




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posted on July 8th, 2012 at 07:38 PM



No im not going to valla .I never meant to have this beetle going like it does the set up was just to have it a bit low.Its got a 4 inch down under beam empi discs and drop spindles,The front is stiff as.The rear has koni shocks and adjustable spring plates with a 2 inch drop,heaps of spungy travel with no bottoming out.2mm tow front 1 mm tow rear.Im supprised as to how well it goes just worried i could wreck it if something else is not done.Stanard drums on rear.Ps thanks for the offer of help always appreciated
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posted on July 8th, 2012 at 09:04 PM



I would also love to hear more about the camber compensator.
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posted on July 9th, 2012 at 05:50 PM



We are running swing axle on both our cars.

For the rear we fitted a 18mm Z bar with rose joints that fit onto the axle tubes. With this setup you can lift the car up withou ever getting pos camber.

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posted on July 9th, 2012 at 07:05 PM



Z-bar is the other option; possibly a better solution but can be harder to fit if your car doesn't have the mountings for it.

Ian Brown in the UK is using a Z-bar to great effect; but his is adjustable and ALOT beefier than a stock Z-bar

http://www.justkampers.com/blog/post/just_beetles_goes_touring_car_racing_par...

4agedub; do you have more pics of your set-up? I noticed in your other thread your running K&L and swing axle

Cheers

Shaun




BMW R65 LS
1967 1300 Deluxe
Swing-axles FTW :!:

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/sander19671988/4201806984_a2d051587f_o.jpg
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posted on July 9th, 2012 at 07:11 PM



can someone explain what im looking at,please.
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posted on July 9th, 2012 at 11:26 PM



I'll take some closer pics of the Z bar setup. The photos are not that clear.
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posted on July 10th, 2012 at 11:51 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by 4agedub
I'll take some closer pics of the Z bar setup. The photos are not that clear.
That would be nice. :tu: :)




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posted on July 10th, 2012 at 11:52 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by 4agedub
I'll take some closer pics of the Z bar setup. The photos are not that clear.


or u can do a threaded rod to give u adjustment like a coilover..
Nice work!
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posted on July 16th, 2012 at 04:39 PM



Sorry for the bad quality picture.

The Z-bar's ends have been threaded and joined with rose joints onto the axle tube

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posted on July 19th, 2012 at 12:10 AM



ive always wondered why you cant chuck a limiting strap on the rear axles to the shock tower?



type 4 1956 oval build thread anyone?...

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=85675 
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posted on July 19th, 2012 at 12:16 AM



The limiting strap makes the inside wheel unload too much. It then generates wheelsipn on the inside wheel and you find yourself pointing in the wrong direction very quickly :)
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posted on July 19th, 2012 at 07:04 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by 4agedub
The limiting strap makes the inside wheel unload too much. It then generates wheelsipn on the inside wheel and you find yourself pointing in the wrong direction very quickly :)

Very sound advice, although a F.Vee type cable can work.

Speaking of wheelspin, how do you control this? Do you have a ZF or Quaife diff? Or a spool :crazy:,even? If so, is underster then a big problem?

Sorry for all the questions, but I am facing this dilemma RIGHT NOW.:fakesniff:

Great to have your input here, by the way.:tu:




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posted on July 19th, 2012 at 07:15 AM



Listen to how Gregs works his car sits nice n flat on the track



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posted on July 25th, 2012 at 02:21 PM



I have just blue-slipped my 'tub'. Comes standard with 1mm lighter Rear Torsion Bars, Standard thickness Spring Plates, a Compensator Spring and Konis.
It is impossible to buy original Porsche Compensator Rubbers (which wear out in about 2 years) and modern copies go for $700 a pair.
A good quality Camber Regulator costs about half of this price and provides much more flexibility of adjustment.

My set-up:-
FRONT 19mm RollBar with Max adjustment on the Konis.
REAR Single Spring Regulator adjusted to 30mm 'push-up' on one end and half way on the Konis.
The 'push-up' gives 2° Negative Camber

This is a street set-up only and within standard range specification for the 356 (other than the 'push-up' on the Regulator instead of the 'push-down of a Compensator).
Thet Max on the front Konis doesn't feel harsh.
The car drives mild Understeer into the corner and very mild Oversteer out of the corner under power. The "feel" is a very nice balance. The attitude of the car is FLAT but not harsh.

A Track set-up would require a x2 spring Regulator and maybe a larger RoolBar at the front.

I think that this would be a very good starting point for a road performance swing axle VW - same 'shite' - slightly different bucket.
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posted on July 26th, 2012 at 12:35 AM



We're running solid spool on both the cars. There's a little understeer through hairpin turns, but the benefits far outweighed the negatives.
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posted on July 26th, 2012 at 05:28 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by HappyDaze
Are go going to Valla? If so, I could give you some help with how to improve the swing-axle set up. It's too involved to do it on here.


if you are offering a master class can i please sit in?
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posted on July 26th, 2012 at 05:43 PM



Happy to pass on anything that may be of use.....only don't ask me to do too much [one-finger] typing.:rolleyes:



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posted on August 3rd, 2012 at 07:59 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by oldtub356
I have just blue-slipped my 'tub'. Comes standard with 1mm lighter Rear Torsion Bars, Standard thickness Spring Plates, a Compensator Spring and Konis.
It is impossible to buy original Porsche Compensator Rubbers (which wear out in about 2 years) and modern copies go for $700 a pair.
A good quality Camber Regulator costs about half of this price and provides much more flexibility of adjustment.

My set-up:-
FRONT 19mm RollBar with Max adjustment on the Konis.
REAR Single Spring Regulator adjusted to 30mm 'push-up' on one end and half way on the Konis.
The 'push-up' gives 2° Negative Camber

This is a street set-up only and within standard range specification for the 356 (other than the 'push-up' on the Regulator instead of the 'push-down of a Compensator).
Thet Max on the front Konis doesn't feel harsh.
The car drives mild Understeer into the corner and very mild Oversteer out of the corner under power. The "feel" is a very nice balance. The attitude of the car is FLAT but not harsh.

A Track set-up would require a x2 spring Regulator and maybe a larger RoolBar at the front.

I think that this would be a very good starting point for a road performance swing axle VW - same 'shite' - slightly different bucket.

got any pictures
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posted on September 7th, 2012 at 07:59 AM



Sorry about quality of pics - everything is black under there.
Since the input above, I have changed the setup from an adjustment on one side only to both sides. While this doesn't change the handling, it causes less droop on the adjustable side and allows a bit extra adjustment potential.
I did the Putty Road run a couple of days ago and the handling was exceptional for a road swing axle. The only downer was on a rough road with a very high crown. Lefthand corners complimented the setup whereas righthand corners(negative camber corners) induced understeer.
The fine adjustment with this setup provides the opportunity to balance the rear roll to the chosen front rollbar.
If you would like better definition pics, PM me with an eMaill address and i will send 1meg pics.

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posted on September 7th, 2012 at 10:06 AM



There is no need to spend heaps on a 'compensating' spring. Mine is Falcon ute. rear main leaf, cut down to suit. If you have trouble drilling the end holes, use a masonry drill.

The links can be 12mm rod ends, with M12 bolts. A couple of spacers, and lock nuts and your done for less than $100 all up.




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posted on September 7th, 2012 at 11:15 AM



Yes a pair of locknuts over and under, locates nicely.

Here is one of the closeups which dropped out of the last post:
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posted on September 7th, 2012 at 06:06 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by oldtub356
Yes a pair of locknuts over and under, locates nicely.

Here is one of the closeups which dropped out of the last post:


still not there lance




BMW R65 LS
1967 1300 Deluxe
Swing-axles FTW :!:

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/sander19671988/4201806984_a2d051587f_o.jpg


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