[ Total Views: 865 | Total Replies: 15 | Thread Id: 98042 ] |
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TorxKiwi
A.k.a.: Dean Newell
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posted on July 26th, 2012 at 08:53 PM |
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Saggy Rear End - CV Joints/Driveshaft HELP
My car, like me, is a bit saggy in the rear end. it sits abou1/2-1 inch lower on the drivers side. Replace shocks or adjust torsion bars? Or something
else completely.
'75 L Bug, stock.
"Ownership of a Beetle is not a destination it is a journey."
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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posted on July 26th, 2012 at 09:23 PM |
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adjust torsion bars. Saggy = springs (in this case, the torsional
springs)
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
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waveman1500
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posted on July 26th, 2012 at 09:23 PM |
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If you don't know how old the torsion bar bushings are, then replacing them and readjusting the torsion bars would probably help. Shocks shouldn't
hold any of the car's weight, especially if they're not gas charged.
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TorxKiwi
A.k.a.: Dean Newell
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posted on July 26th, 2012 at 09:30 PM |
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Thanks, I'll go that route first.
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TorxKiwi
A.k.a.: Dean Newell
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posted on July 26th, 2012 at 09:33 PM |
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Any other bushings or bits I should be looking to replace while there?
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waveman1500
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posted on July 26th, 2012 at 11:41 PM |
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The only important bushes in the rear end are the torsion bar bushes. Be careful that you get the right ones, because there are a couple of different
types for different years of bug. Go for the original rubber ones, not polyurethane. They work by twisting and the poly bushes don't twist enough, so
they slip instead.
While you're there you could also check the rubbers in the body mounts I suppose. They usually crush down. If you're doing suspension bushes then
the front swaybar bushes are the most important on strut bugs, so you may as well check them.
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TorxKiwi
A.k.a.: Dean Newell
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posted on July 27th, 2012 at 03:40 AM |
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Cheers. Recently replaced sway bar bushings, so all good.
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psimitar
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posted on July 27th, 2012 at 07:50 PM |
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Poly bushes are fine so long as you use the supplied grease on the moving surfaces.
Spline position table for lowering/raising Beetle
Above link to see how many splines are needed to adjust the sag out.
madness is in the eye of the beholder
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waveman1500
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posted on July 27th, 2012 at 07:54 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by psimitar
Poly bushes are fine so long as you use the supplied grease on the moving surfaces.
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The torsion bar bushes are not supposed to slide. They are designed to grip to the housing and the bar. The twisting motion is supposed to be allowed
by the shear in the rubber. Poly bushes are too stiff, so they can't do this, which means that they slip around and wear out.
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psimitar
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posted on July 27th, 2012 at 08:11 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by waveman1500
Quote: | Originally
posted by psimitar
Poly bushes are fine so long as you use the supplied grease on the moving surfaces.
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The torsion bar bushes are not supposed to slide. They are designed to grip to the housing and the bar. The twisting motion is supposed to be allowed
by the shear in the rubber. Poly bushes are too stiff, so they can't do this, which means that they slip around and wear out.
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Maybe if you have smooth doughnuts but not an issue with knobbly ones. Plus the grip of the back of the bush compared to the greased areas should stop
the bush from spinning but maybe not. I got knobbly ones so they work just fine
madness is in the eye of the beholder
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TorxKiwi
A.k.a.: Dean Newell
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posted on July 28th, 2012 at 07:48 AM |
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Thanks for posting the link to the table psimitar. I knew it existed but was about t try and find it again. Saved me the hassle.
"Ownership of a Beetle is not a destination it is a journey."
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psimitar
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posted on July 28th, 2012 at 11:32 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by TorxKiwi
Thanks for posting the link to the table psimitar. I knew it existed but was about t try and find it again. Saved me the hassle.
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no worries man
madness is in the eye of the beholder
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TorxKiwi
A.k.a.: Dean Newell
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posted on August 11th, 2012 at 10:48 PM |
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I fitted lowering struts on the front last week. Really happy with the outcome so decided to deal with the lopsided back end today.
All was travelling well so I thought I'd tidy up a split CV boot while I was at it ..... First mistake. Cleaning and re-greasing CV joints would be
up there with the dirtiest of jobs I have ever done. Anyway all sorted and went to reinstall the drive shaft. Attached first end to transmission and
here I hit a stumbling block. This thing is rock solid, almost no flex, so there is no way in hell I'll get it attached to the wheel.
I'm 99.9% sure that I've put them back together as they should be. Is it possible to pack to much grease into them? I've hit a road block.
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OZ Towdster
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posted on August 12th, 2012 at 09:29 AM |
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I'dd hazard a guess that you have reassembled the cv wrong , ie you have the narrow spaces linning up with the narrow spacers from the inner to the
outer cv housings
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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TorxKiwi
A.k.a.: Dean Newell
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posted on August 12th, 2012 at 06:27 PM |
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and that would probably be correct ... a new day, a clear head and the sun was shining. Dismantle, clean, reassemble without grease and all was
working fine. Grease and reassemble, install, life is good.
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1303Steve
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posted on August 12th, 2012 at 06:36 PM |
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Hi
New bushes in trailing arm front pivot point is a good idea as well.
I've never worn out a set of urethane bushes even on high mileage cars
Steve
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