Subject: Putting an older body on a Super floor pan.
duncombemu
A.k.a.: Mark Atkins
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posted on August 28th, 2003 at 12:32 AM
Putting an older body on a Super floor pan.
I've just finished fitting a 1971 Super Beetle floor pan up to my '62 Ragtop Beetle. But, what about the strut front-end, fitting to the
'62 body, I hear you ask?
I cut off the frame head of the Super and welded a new 'ball joint' type Frame Head (from Mick Motors) to the 'bulkhead' that the
brake master cylinder bolts onto. This type of modification has to be very precise if you want the older body to fit onto the floor pan.
There were problems. A few. (LOL)
Just getting the new frame head at the correct length, so the two upper front beam bolts, line up, was hard enough. Then getting the whole
'head' square to the floor pan and keeping the' head' at the correct length and level with the rest of the floor pan was very
hard. It also had to be set up so the upper and lower torsion bar tubes were vertical to the floor pan. I ended up with the front beams about 12 mm
too high. I just couldn't get all these parts lined up without it being out by this much. Everything else was OK. I found this out when I went to
match the body to the upper front beam anchor points. So I cut the two lugs off the top beam and welded a new set on a modified bracket I made. This
fixed the problem of not having the front of the body secure.
There was a lot of rust in the floor pan, like where the battery went, was completely missing and on the other side too. I cut all that out and welded
in new quarter panels (from Mick Motors). So the floor pan was completely waterproof again.
Now when it came for me to attach the steering column to the rubber coupler/steering box, it all wouldn't line up, because the body was just that
much lower than originally. It wasn't much, but it was enough not to line up. So I had to modify the way it all attached together and utilise the
universal joint from the Super's steering setup. I made up some attachments and a nylon bush/bearing, cut in half and secured up in the steering
columns shaft, that protrudes through the firewall, to act like a bearing. This stoped the shaft slopping around in this piece of tubing, when the
steering wheel was turned. It worked very well.
Then when it came to putting the fuel tank back in, it wouldn't fit, because the steering universal joint was too high and hit the tank. I made a
13 mm RHS frame that I put between the lip on the tank and where the tank was secured normally. That fixed that little problem. I added some small
tags to the original clamps that held the tank in before. The tank just sits a little higher than it did originally. It's not that noticeable
under the carpet lined front section.
I then had a few of the holes along the floor pan/chassis, that didn't line up, but they weren't that far out and eventually I managed to
get them tightened up nicely. The bolts under the back seat didn't line up at all, about 5 mm out, so I had to cut the holes a lot bigger and
then welded large washers to cover the holes and secured the body with the bolts the usual way. That turned out OK.
I then came up against the usual problem where the rear mounts attach to the higher shock towers. So I cut around 32 mm off the bottom of the mount
and lowered the body onto the towers and then welded the tab with the hole in it to the remaining mount bracket and secured those points to the
towers.
There were some other little problems that manifested themselves, as the job progressed, but I just worked my way around them.
I changed from a single line/circuit to dual circuit master cylinder while I was at it, because I now had front disc brakes. The brake fluid
reservoir, from the Super, had to be installed because of two feed lines needed, instead of only one, as before with the single circuit set up.
I removed the rear shock absorbers from a 1995 Volvo sedan and they fitted straight in with out any modifications and gas Monroe's at that. I
removed the front shock absorbers (Old Man Emu) from a four wheel drive (don't know what type, sorry) and they went in the front with only a bush
needed for the lower mount stud, because it was a smaller diameter than was needed on the shockers.
Every bolt that I put back into the car, had 'No Seize' grease on the threads, so at any time these bolts are going to be removed,
they'll come out easy enough. Very little is needed. This is very important, when doing anything with nuts and bolts.
I then had to hunt around to find wheel rims (4 stud) to suit my wide tires that I had on my 5 stud wheels. I got some Centrelines, 14 X 6 front 14 X
7 rear. Very nice indeed!
Also while I had the car off the road, I installed a 1500 motor and removed the old tired 1200, that was in it originally. One thing that I should
have done and did not, was change the 'throw out bearing' for a new one. It's as noisy as hell, when you put your foot on the clutch.
I'll do that next time I remove the engine. I fitted a 'quick shift' to shorten the gear changes too. I also installed a new oil
temperature gauge and a tacho as well. I put in the front seats and the retractable seat belts out of a 1976 Gemini.
What a difference all of these changes have made, a lot of work, but well worth it in the end. You get IRS rear, a newer gearbox, with better ratios
for the bigger motor and front disc brakes. The only trouble is, the car still looks the same, only difference is the wheels, because all the other
changes are hidden. But gee, what changes!
So if anyone wants to talk to me about doing anything like this, then feel free to ask.
Regards,
Mark
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Andy
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posted on August 28th, 2003 at 02:00 AM
Now that's keen :o
Love to see some picks. How long have you spent on it??
:thumb
duncombemu
A.k.a.: Mark Atkins
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posted on August 28th, 2003 at 11:49 PM
Took her for a test run today.
I took Pinky out for a run today. Gee, what a difference all these modifications made to how she handles. The suspension is probably a bit to stiff,
because the ride is very rough, you feel every bump in the road. At least you don't have to slow down when you go around corners. It's like
it's on rails. Compaired to the drum brakes, the discs are brilliant too. I'm glad I did what I did.
I suppose those who have strut type Super bugs; I did a very bad thing, removing the struts and replacing them with ball joint torsion beam front end.
But this bug came off the tip and was ready to become land fill. Someone had cut off and very badly at that, the roof and smashed the dash and
headlights. Some of you would remember I wrote about it on the forum a few months ago, about feeding the Emus out of it on my farm. Well, it now has
got a new lease on life and is going very well, so-far. It would of been wasted and never used to its full capacity if I kept it in its original
state, on the farm. Plus the Emus never appreciated it like it was. Now it sees everyday life on our roads and highways.
Anyway, see some of you at 'Shannons National Cavalcade of Volkswagons' in Hobart later in November.
Regards,
Mark:thumb
Don't ever let anyone tell you, "It can't be done."
Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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posted on August 29th, 2003 at 12:01 AM
Job well done :thumb
Maybe try a softer shock and put some sway bars on it .
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posted on August 29th, 2003 at 08:48 PM
The 'throw out' bearing is noisey as soon as you go near the clutch pedal. I've got a new one coming in the mail, so I will change it
when it arrives. It's driving me nuts, with the noise.
Regards,
Mark:thumb
Don't ever let anyone tell you, "It can't be done."
posted on August 28th, 2003 at 11:49 PM
