| [ Total Views: 35807 | Total Replies: 375 | Thread Id: 98668 ] |
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 Joel
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| posted on May 17th, 2015 at 10:32 PM |
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It's sending the ground signals but did you make sure there was a constant positive on the other wire with the igntiion on?
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on May 18th, 2015 at 09:02 AM |
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i will check that out
Joel
good suggestion, I didnt check that, today I will do so.
Also just realised I do not have a big earth strap on the motor. I moved the battery out of the engine bay. I have the battery earthed to the body
but not to the motor. that is something i can easily remedy. what about the ecu itself? the case looks earthed as it is mounted to the kombi body.
would i need to run a special earth back to the battery?
appreciate your comments on the below points regards to the old method of spark fuel and air
SPARK- all i have proved so far is that i can see spark on one cylinder out of the combustion chamber . is it possible and likely the spark is too
weak inside the combustion chamber? ( have cleaned all 4 spark plugs) I am not getting any kick at all. could all this be explained by a coil pack?
I will check the coil impedance anyway.
FUEL- I have proven there is fuel going into the fuel rail',could the pressure regulator be doing anything?
AIR - I can see the throttle body flap is opening nicely.
what about sensors? Because I can''t get it to run I have no codes but can any sensor stop the start? I have already replaced coolant temp and
knock sensors and was happy that I now had a running engine without any codes.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on May 18th, 2015 at 06:19 PM |
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wont jump to conclusions
I wont jump to conclusions but found this from the mercedes diesleguy and he had the same symptoms as me. he had spark and fuel , it would crankbut
nto start.his timing belt jumped a tooth or so.
I replaced the belt and waterpump a while back and it was all ok after that
I guess I can take off the timing covers and have a look
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKxewDXwojk
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Joel
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| posted on May 18th, 2015 at 06:20 PM |
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Definitely check that the injectors have power with igntion on, it only takes a bad connection or an iffy igntion relay to stop that.
You have fuel pressure there and atleast some spark so if the injectors were firing you would have atleast some sign of life when cranking.
The ECU case isnt grounded, theres a couple of ground wires to it in the the plugs, if the ground was bad though you would have nothing at all.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on May 19th, 2015 at 12:06 PM |
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yep injectors have power
I tested the wiring harness to the injector and it has ign power to it
I also put a test light across each one and when I crank the donk each injector test light flashes ok.
Just thinking about sensors, if I had a problem I would think I would have a code but I guess I only get codes from a running engine ?. is it
technically possible the last time the engine was running I could have had a sensor failure but leaving it for a few weeks without power the code
has erased?
Can any sensor make it impossible to start? I have read threads on coolant, crank and cam sensor issues but it usually is regards to a hot or cold
start not a no-start.
I also cleaned the airflow sensor yesterday, no difference.
Although I already proved I have spark , I also tested the resistance of the coil. All within specs.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on May 19th, 2015 at 03:47 PM |
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timing belt looks ok
The timing belt looks ok. it all still looks lined up although i can't see to count tne teeth
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Joel
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| posted on May 19th, 2015 at 09:05 PM |
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Might be worth trying the crank and cam sensors.
A dodgy crank sensor can cause starting issues.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on May 19th, 2015 at 10:14 PM |
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joel
yes agreed i can't think of much else
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Sunnyjim
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 posted on May 23rd, 2015 at 11:39 AM |
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got the bugger started
got the bugger started- I think it was just badly flooded and new plugs needed.
I remembered why I started this project, I wanted to learn about EFI engines. I am Happy to say I keep learning.
Even though a few days ago i took the very new plugs out , I noticed they were very wet with fuel. I cleaned them and put them back in. Still it
wouldn't start.
Then Pete at CVD suggested calling Russell at Subi-evolution who knows a real lot about subi engines. Russell suggested remove the plugs , let the
engine breathe open air overnight , crank without fuel pump fuse in. then put new plugs in,turn fuel pump back on and start
hey presto , bobs yer uncle she goes again.
I know I have limited knowledge on EFI engines but I always somehow never thought modern engines flooded. I thought that only happened with carby
engines
Joel, much appreciated all your help.
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karmann141
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| posted on May 23rd, 2015 at 11:52 AM |
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Hey Paul,
Great to hear you got it started - I am (and sure a few others) are learning new things through your trials and tribulations.
Keep on soldiering on.
1961 K Ghia - Porsche 5 sp, EJ20T, Brembo's, Dble A arm susp
1974 L Bug - Porsche 944 brakes, Boxster 16's
1974 Bay Camper - EJ20, twin radiators, Boxster 16x7's
Half Beetle trailer with Boxster 16x7's
2011 Tiguan TDI 4Motion
2010 LR Discovery 4 TDV
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on May 23rd, 2015 at 02:55 PM |
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how is yr KG going?
Nolan
I am happy of someone else can learn from my mistakes as as i bumble my way along.
Hey how is the KG project going?
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karmann141
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| posted on May 23rd, 2015 at 06:11 PM |
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At a bit of a stand still, always something getting in the way and business has taken a bit of a priority at the moment.
1961 K Ghia - Porsche 5 sp, EJ20T, Brembo's, Dble A arm susp
1974 L Bug - Porsche 944 brakes, Boxster 16's
1974 Bay Camper - EJ20, twin radiators, Boxster 16x7's
Half Beetle trailer with Boxster 16x7's
2011 Tiguan TDI 4Motion
2010 LR Discovery 4 TDV
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Joel
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| posted on May 23rd, 2015 at 07:02 PM |
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Glad to hear you got it sorted Paul
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on June 25th, 2015 at 06:06 PM |
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good feeling to report good news. I think I can see the finish line now. The 71 bus with ej22 is now driving around the block a bit . I am pleased to
announce the radiators in parallel seem to work well.
temps not over 90 yet ( but I assume the VDO gauge is a little inaccurate . The important thing is once the fans kick in I can see the temp drop
I also wired in a LED light on the dash that tells me when the fans kick in and out. Also another dash LED for the Check engine light. Pleased to say
I am driving around with no codes. My el cheapo tacho says I have a nice low idle around 800rpm
All I have to do now is book it in to get exhaust put on it. I have jigged up a temporary one to keep the neighbours happy.
really appreciate all the help I received here, thanks everyone
hatch cut and carpeted
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nbturbo
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| posted on February 24th, 2017 at 01:30 PM |
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In the last pic-where is the blue radiator hose going? It looks like it's the bottom tank outlet.
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Sunnyjim
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| posted on March 30th, 2017 at 09:18 PM |
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gday mate
sorry it's been a while since i have been on here.
i did things a little different. The radiators are set up in parallel not series . My theory was out of the motor dumped into 2 radiators instead
of one. seems to cool well.
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