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 big_ash
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| posted on September 27th, 2012 at 10:18 PM |
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Narrowed beam. How does it work.
Hey aussieveeddubbers.
I have concerns about to do a narrow beam. Where do the uprights go that sit next to the body work? Can some one post photos on how's it's done and
what's the best length to cut down etc. I understand how it works a little just don't know how the upright bits work.
Ash
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on September 27th, 2012 at 11:07 PM |
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I know they usually cut about 4 inches maximum from the centre of the beams.. 4 inches -= 100mm
so everything is moved closer
the torsion leaves need to be cut/tapered to fit the arms
I'm sure You will get many answers by people who have done this modification..
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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big_ash
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| posted on September 27th, 2012 at 11:25 PM |
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Hey my only thing I can't rap my head around is where do the shock mounts go? Like there right next to the body. And we're bring the track in I just
don't get it.
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mikew
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| posted on September 28th, 2012 at 06:35 AM |
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Check out the tech forum there is a how to on there with pics...
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big_ash
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| posted on September 28th, 2012 at 08:07 AM |
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Thought I was on the tech page didn't see nothing could you be kind enough to link me?
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modulus
A.k.a.: Peter Hill
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| posted on September 28th, 2012 at 09:08 AM |
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There are some good explanatory photos in this thread:
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=97756&page=1#pid916452
That beam was narrowed by only 50 mm, but even then requires modified shock towers to clear the bodywork.
Bear in mind that, for a road car, your chances of getting this modification approved by an engineer are approximately nil.
hth
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vwo60
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| posted on September 28th, 2012 at 09:58 AM |
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Illegal to narrow the track on your car, people narrow the beam to fit wheel with the wrong offset, the track ends up the same but the load on the
suspension increase's, you are allowed 25MM over track in Queensland, it is the relationship of the wheels center line to the ball joint's/king pin
that is the issue.
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empi
A.k.a.: Empstar
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| posted on September 28th, 2012 at 11:12 AM |
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68 Auto bug you got it wrong, as usual.
What year is the car u want to do this to? King and link pin or ball joint?
Usually u lopp off the shock towers trim the ends of the beam and have purchased some endplates and shock mounts (laser cut ones) and have theses
welded on and the desired length.
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empi
A.k.a.: Empstar
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| posted on September 28th, 2012 at 11:15 AM |
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The laser cut end plates are thinner than the stock boxed shock tower.
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big_ash
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| posted on September 28th, 2012 at 12:48 PM |
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Hey guys.
I have a 63 beetle link pin front. Has disk brakes on it which bring out the track I'm running 15x145/55 and they don't even fit under the guards.
So want to bring it in about 50-100mm so I don't eat my guards apart. Is it easyer to buy the ready made beam then what else needs to be modded? I
know you gotta cut your leafs. What about control arms? Steering dampner all the same ?
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empi
A.k.a.: Empstar
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| posted on September 28th, 2012 at 07:38 PM |
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Get 135s
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big_ash
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| posted on September 29th, 2012 at 01:03 AM |
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Done the 135s. Sill don't work.
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on September 29th, 2012 at 06:01 AM |
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http://www.btinternet.com/~aircooled/wolfsburgeast/beamnarrow.html
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mikew
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| posted on September 29th, 2012 at 09:21 AM |
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http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=79965&page=1#pid745075
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FROSTY
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| posted on September 29th, 2012 at 10:08 AM |
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I have done this a couple of times and I found the best way (for me) was an inch per side was enough. Cut the shock tower welds and remove the whole
tower and then trim the inside off the box section and replace this with flat plate. Narrow your front end and then replace the towers at the end of
the tube. This will give you about 8mm in the tower and about 10mm at the end of the tube plus the small gap that is already there 4-5mm between shock
tower and body.
Hope this makes sense.
Frosty
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psimitar
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| posted on September 29th, 2012 at 12:22 PM |
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Take a look at a thread Dirtbag did a few years back. Fully explains and shows how to narrow both LP and BJ beams. He did mine.
Many ways to skin a cat in regards to removing metal for the centre of the beam tubes but for the shock towers on a 2inch job you just cut the inner
shock tower skin off and then weld some 10mm plate to the inside of the outer tower skin to put the strength back. Bit of 1mm sheet over the outside
of that and nice neat job. Gives about 5mm clearance to the inner wing.
For anything more than this you should look at rides on Volkszone as it's legal to do this mod in the UK and USA. Basically you use 10mm plate to
kick out the shock mount to miss the bodywork but this also normally means welding a new mount to the torsion arm as the shock is at a very bad angle.
They also use Mini shox to help with clearance issues and rosejoint the upper rod end. If you don't use the kick out method then you have to mod the
fuel tank and inner part of the inner wing next to the tank.
25mm per side is normally enough to correct for disc conversion kits.
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