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Author: Subject:  judson supercharger rebuild and fram bypass oil filter
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posted on October 7th, 2012 at 04:20 PM



A 'Scotch key' at each end of the rotor may be worth thinking about, Steve.



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posted on October 7th, 2012 at 05:59 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by HappyDaze
A 'Scotch key' at each end of the rotor may be worth thinking about, Steve.

Yes well done greg,butto late the shaft and rotor are one,will upload photos later all went well.To incoropate scotch keys i would have designed it slightly different ie. the shaft would have a larger centre dia. so i could drill for the pins.If this one fails i will do that.Thanks Steve




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posted on October 8th, 2012 at 06:56 AM



The rotor has been bored for a good interference fit.I heated the rotor in the oven as hot as it would go for 1hr & the shaft was put in the freezer for the same period.Also i heated the rotor with mapp gas but it did not quite fit 1st time round.I would hate to get it stuck half way.The rotor was put back in the oven for another 1/2 hr.and shaft in freezer.
Next time it was success as the rotor slid all the way home and instantly struck,it took another 3 hrs to cool before i could pick it up.I feel very confident that this will work ok,
but may see if i can put in a scotch key as Greg suggested.
Onto machining the outside dia. of rotor ,this is the easy part and i love machining aluminium because it is so soft and the finish is great.I will close up the tolerence a bit by making the outside dia. .5mm larger because of the wear in the body and material remove during honing.Also the end gap i will close up to .3mm it is .3 at one end and .6 at the other on the old rotor.Next will be to machine slots this will take some time as they are deep.

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posted on October 8th, 2012 at 05:52 PM



You are doing a fantastic job!!

I love your 'get to it' attitude.

Rotor is buggered you say? I'll just whip a new one up!!

Keep at it!



Smiley :)




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posted on October 8th, 2012 at 06:15 PM



You're spot-on there, Smiley. Steve's ignored the 'knockers', and just taken on a job that's not for the faint hearted. Pity there arn't more out there with his attitude. Good on him.:tu:



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posted on October 8th, 2012 at 06:51 PM



^^ yep, his oval is absolutely sweet as, and he did EVERYTHING himself.



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posted on October 8th, 2012 at 08:16 PM



Thanks guys for the encouragement it means a lot to me .Have started cutting the slots in the rotor it is slow going as i only have a small mill but so far have cut 3 without a stuff up,it would be a bastard to stuff it up now.Iam using a 3/16" thick(same thickness of new vanes) slitting saw i bought of ebay cheap ,it was blunt and would not even cut the aluminium so i made a jig on my bench grinder and sharpened it.I was going to use a end mill or slot drill originally but could not get one long enough.
First photo is tramming the rotor to get it parallel to the cutter.
Second is the slitting saw iam using

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posted on October 9th, 2012 at 07:27 AM



Have learn't how to put a link in (pretty slow huh) This is a good read if you own a Judson and is the reason i pulled mine apart.
http://vwjudsonregister.tripod.com/jms_case_history.htm 




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posted on October 9th, 2012 at 08:03 AM



yep good read

the rotor is coming along great do you have new vanes




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posted on October 9th, 2012 at 08:58 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by vw54
yep good read

the rotor is coming along great do you have new vanes
As they were over size vanes installed i am hoping to be able to mill them down to size as they where not too badly worn.I have researched other materials and there is far better materials available now.I will have to look back through my notes,but can remember that it was about $350 for enough material to make 4 vanes.I will be away for a few days as my wife is on holidays,weather is great so off to double island pt fishing.




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posted on October 11th, 2012 at 01:58 PM



I have finished machining the rotor,iam confident it will not slip on the shaft as i have a good interference fit but to be safe i have installed 2 scotch keys as Greg suggested.But instead of driving a pin in ,i have drilled and tapped 4mm grub screws with red locktight.( if i was to make another one i would make the center of the shaft a larger dia.).
Now onto machining the vanes.It was fitted with 1/4" oversize vanes and i hope to be able to machine them to 3/16" which is the standard size.

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posted on October 11th, 2012 at 02:14 PM



Awesome work!!...:tu::tu::tu::tu:
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posted on October 11th, 2012 at 07:03 PM



The vanes have been machined and are a sliding fit in the slots.I will soak the vanes in Marvel Mystery Oil overnight (read somewhere to do it,plus can't hurt).
Picked up new bearings and seals from CBC today (were in stock)the old bearings and seals looked and felt ok,but new is better.All to do now is assemble which is straight forward.

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posted on October 11th, 2012 at 08:30 PM



Great stuff!!
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posted on October 11th, 2012 at 08:44 PM



WOW :borg:

Absolutley unbelievable

Brillant work :tu:




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posted on October 14th, 2012 at 07:56 AM



Before i fitted new bearings and seals i faced off the end plates as they had a bit of scoring,this then meant i had to readjust the clearance of the rotor.This was done by machining the spacer which is shown in picture #2

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posted on October 14th, 2012 at 08:19 AM



Installed on car yesterday and fired her up,the difference is amazing i can actually here the motor run,before all you could hear was the supercharger making a scraping noise (i was going to take it off because i could not stand it).Can't road test which is the real test(it is not reg. as have too many regs. one day ) but should run ok as every thing is right.
Next is to make up the fittings and oil lines for the fram bypass oil filter,i know i can buy oil lines made up but I have the equipment and the time.
Thanks for the support and encouragement guys.

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posted on October 14th, 2012 at 11:40 AM



That's a credit to you, Steve. Nice car, too......can we see more?



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posted on October 14th, 2012 at 05:17 PM



Thanks Greg,Have added a few of car ,i can only attach 3 photos at a time,will have to find out how to do more at once.

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posted on October 14th, 2012 at 07:48 PM



Awesome work steve, might get u to make me one when the time is right..
we had a chat at valla about mmo, where in briso was it stocked again?
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posted on October 14th, 2012 at 08:05 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by D-train
Awesome work steve, might get u to make me one when the time is right..
we had a chat at valla about mmo, where in briso was it stocked again?
Hi,Thanks for the comments,i have been watching your build also and yours is looking good.Here's a link to the oil
http://www.skyshop.com.au/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=305&cat=lubricants 




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posted on October 14th, 2012 at 09:11 PM



Steve,

I'm a turner by trade and have to say I'm impressed with the quality of your work.

Good on you mate, brilliant work, if you ever need measuring equipment, give me a shout, I have it all here. Rick has my number.

Keep up the good work.

Ian




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posted on October 15th, 2012 at 06:47 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by Ian 68
Steve,

I'm a turner by trade and have to say I'm impressed with the quality of your work.

Good on you mate, brilliant work, if you ever need measuring equipment, give me a shout, I have it all here. Rick has my number.

Keep up the good work.

Ian
Thanks Ian,Rick has mentioned that you have a lot of tools etc.,I will take you up on that offer and if you ever need to use a small lathe or mill , your welcome to use it.




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posted on November 2nd, 2012 at 11:01 AM



A fram filter model no.F3-P was used on the 36 hp motors.
In keeping my oval period correct and seeing as the oval came with one .Iam going to make the fittings for it.
The oil outlet uses a t piece on the oil press. switch and returns through a hollow bolt on the dist. bracket.

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posted on November 2nd, 2012 at 11:14 AM



In keeping period correct i don't think fittings would have been made in aluminium as most are today.So i chose 4AN size and steel 1/8" npt x4an fittings.The hoses are 4an stainless steel and came ready made at 24" long.
I machined the t piece out of hex and is 10x1 to suit oil press. gauge with 1/8npt for oil line.The return fitting i also made and it replaces the stud that holds the dissy. A 2 mm hole is drilled through and a 4AN thread was machined on one end and 8mm thread on the other.
I also made another set while i was at it and is listed in the for sale section.

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posted on November 12th, 2012 at 07:25 PM



so can you feel a power increase aswell? awesome job man.



type 4 1956 oval build thread anyone?...

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=85675 
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posted on November 13th, 2012 at 07:51 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by DieSchnelleKafer
so can you feel a power increase aswell? awesome job man.
yes you can feel the extra power,and with the stock 36hp any improvement is welcome.




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