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 butch97
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| posted on February 14th, 2013 at 10:56 AM |
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1600 TP engine rebuild advice
Hi There
I’m getting ready to rebuild a 1600 twin port to put into my 1967 Beetle and need advice on a few things, hopefully you guys can help.
I’d like to use twin carbs, but I still want to run with the heater. Can this be done? Ideally I’d like to keep the stock doghouse shroud if
possible.
I have heard that you need to switch to the 36HP fan shroud, but I have also heard lots of bad reports about the fit and cooling abilities of these
shrouds.
I was thinking of using EMPI HPMX Ultra twin carb kit, which has offset manifolds, does anybody have experience with these.
I read the first ones might have been a bit rubbish, but apparently the quality has improved somewhat.
And finally, for the time being, can you use my old 6V flywheel and clutch on the new engine, or do I need to grind the bell housing on the transaxle
to accept the 12v flywheel.
Thanks
Dave
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 Bizarre
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| posted on February 14th, 2013 at 02:30 PM |
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Yes you can run heaters. I do on a dual Dellorto 1916. Mine has a stock late shroud
As for carbs I would buy new Weber IDFs or some refurbished Dellorto DRLA or Italian webers from Alfa1750 on eBay
Futue te ipsum!!!
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butch97
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| posted on February 16th, 2013 at 03:51 PM |
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Thanks for that
Alfa has a set of dellorto 36s on at the moment, would they be a good fit on a stock 1600, or would I be better off getting Webber 40's?
I will need some manifolds and linkages too, would this kit from CB suit my needs?
http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=3125
Thanks
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Bizarre
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| posted on February 16th, 2013 at 05:04 PM |
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Alfa has 36's and they would be perfect with (IMHO) 32 vents
He also has IDF's a bit cheaper and DRLA 40's - but they seen to have gone up in price
Personally - I would go for the 36's.
As for the linkage - yep, that is a good choice.
Check out http://www.piersideparts.net
He sells CB stuff and his shipping is a LOT cheaper
Futue te ipsum!!!
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butch97
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| posted on February 26th, 2013 at 05:27 PM |
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Thanks for the advice.
A nice set of dellorto 36' carbs and the CB linkage was waiting for me when I got home this evening. Very exciting. Looks to be quality stuff!
A couple of more noob questions for you, would my stock vacuum dizzy be fine to use of should I go for something else.
Also same question about the fuel pump, would the stock mechanical be fine or do I need to upgrade to an electrical one?
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Bizarre
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| posted on February 26th, 2013 at 06:02 PM |
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Congrats on your purchase. I run a stock pump happily.
Not too sure where you put your stock dizzy into your carbon.
Yes - I run an electronic one.
Sure some one will chip in.
Futue te ipsum!!!
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FROSTY
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| posted on February 26th, 2013 at 06:35 PM |
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You are able to use the vac advance dist on dellorto carbs. The vac pipe will come off the left carb. If you follow the set up instructions that come
with the carbs (they are brand new?) you will have no problems at start up time.
Good luck,
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butch97
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| posted on February 26th, 2013 at 06:43 PM |
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Thanks guys
Frosty, the carbs were a rebuilt set from alfa1750 off eBay.
Didn't come with any instructions, but I have a helper that that should be able to sort that stuff out.
Thanks again for the advice guys 
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butch97
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| posted on April 8th, 2013 at 06:19 PM |
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Hi again
We stripped the engine down on the weekend, found no nasty surprises which is always a plus.
I took the crank down to get it ground and some new bearings put in too.
While I was there I picked up a SCAT C35 cam and some lightweight lifters.
Is this cam going to be suitable for for my engine, or should I swap it for the C25? (1600tp, dual dellorto 36s, vintage speed exhaust)
We were planning on a small intake port tidy up to suit the manifolds too.
Also do I need to get new (special?) valve springs to suit either of these cam's?
Thanks
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matberry
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| posted on April 8th, 2013 at 06:45 PM |
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I would go with much smller cam if your not going for bigger valves AND ports. Engle 100 would be my choice with stock or near stock heads, That way
you will be able to retain more basic valve train, although I'd really prefer performance rocker gear to be a good place to invest as well. Engle
100, single HD springs, CM retainers bolt together shafts and swivel foot adjusters would be on my list, along with a deep sump and full flow oil
system. Then you can always upgrade HP later and you'll have many reliable valve train and oiling components already.
A C35 with stock heads and small displacement will be lacking drivable bottom end torque that you would have with a smaller cam. Your 36mm carbs will
be a nice and smooth power delivery with the smaller cam.
If you go bigger cam, then you will definately require all the valve train upgrades with the addition of CM pushrods, and IMO dual springs (yes the
manufacturer says singles are ok but in my experience you will suffer premature valve guide and lifter wear).
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Mr Muppet
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| posted on April 8th, 2013 at 10:14 PM |
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Im just curious to know if you can fit valves any bigger than 40x35.5 in standard bore heads??
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matberry
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| posted on April 9th, 2013 at 08:34 AM |
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For stock bore (who does that lol) you may get a little more valve but really there is no gain as the ports and engine power will max out before the
valve size becomes the restriction/limit.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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68BUS
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| posted on April 9th, 2013 at 10:46 AM |
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On a side note, is there a lot of cost benefit in rebuilding a 1600Tp as a 1600TP or is there little cost difference in rebuilding as a 1776 or
similar?
1966 Aussie 11 Window
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butch97
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| posted on April 11th, 2013 at 10:42 AM |
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Thanks guys
I don't really want to end up spending too much on this rebuild so I'll go back and swap it for the C25 cam, I have read that is the equivalent of
an Engle 100.
Why am I doing a 1600 TP? I don't want it to be a rocket ship, just a nice daily driver with a bit more get up and go.
Im sure the cost of the P & C is not much more for the 1776, but if i went with the bigger capacity I could see myself justifying spending more
money on head work, cranks, rockers etc and I'm not really keen on spending too much for this build.
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68BUS
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| posted on April 12th, 2013 at 08:06 AM |
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I was not saying in any way you should not. I was mearly curious as I have a spare 1600TP that I thought I may one day rebuild for a project and to
teach myself what goes in so if I am roadtripping and I break down I have a better idea.
It then led me to thinking that if buying new parts anyway is there much of a difference to the larger kits (obviosly machining would cost something
though).
1966 Aussie 11 Window
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modnrod
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| posted on April 14th, 2013 at 05:55 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 68BUSIt then led me to thinking that if buying new parts anyway is there much of a difference to the larger kits (obviosly machining
would cost something though).
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You can get slip-in P&C kits, but they have a thinner barrel thickness, more chance of warping and leaking long term.
After the cost of a P&C kit that is thickwall for engine life, you then have the cost of machining the heads or cases or both to take the extra
size.
If you are getting all the machining done anyway, then the cost of the actual kits from 88mm to 94mm is very similar.
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