| [ Total Views: 626 | Total Replies: 5 | Thread Id: 104856 ] |
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 m4co
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on January 25th, 2014 at 11:16 PM |
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Body saw horse
Just wondering if anyone on here has built a saw horse for their restoration? I'm planning to build one but before I do I wanted to get some rough
idea on the specifications to build it to. Any pics or measurements would be appreciated 
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psimitar
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on January 26th, 2014 at 12:01 AM |
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I just made them high and wide enough to be able to roll the chassis in and out as necessary as I only had a single garage to work in. I used 2x4
structural pine that I notched the upper leg ends so the beam sat in them for better strength. Use 60mm plus bugle screws and either 12mm plywood at
the top or a notched bit of 2x4 at the bottom of the legs to stop them splaying out from the weight of the body.
madness is in the eye of the beholder  |
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MR930
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on January 26th, 2014 at 06:13 AM |
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My saw horses fit into a large rectangle frame that has wheels on it so I can push it in and out of the shed or against a wall.
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vwo60
Veteran Volks Folk
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| posted on January 26th, 2014 at 08:19 AM |
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we have a steel one on wheels that fits over the chassis, this saves space and lets you move the body and chassis as required.
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viiking
Officially Full-On Dubber
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| posted on January 29th, 2014 at 08:38 PM |
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I can't get a photo of mine at the moment, but I over-engineered mine with the view to making sure it was sturdy enough and easily dismantled.
Rather than buy structural 4 x 2 or whatever, I went to Bunyips and bought 200 x 50 pine railway sleepers. About $11 each. Cheaper than the structural
pine I think and much stronger on edge. I made inverted T shapes. WIth a half lap joint i.e. cut a half thickness out of each piece and join the I
and the ___ together. I used cup head bolts to do this.
I cut a 200 x 50 mm slot vertically in the top of each of these inverted T's so that a cross sleeper could slot into it. This prevents sideways
movement and is very strong and the cross member is the bit the car sits on.
For security you might want to screw or bolt or brace this cross piece so it doesn't slip out of the inverted T's. I just left mine protrude a
bit.
As an added insurance I put in a steel angle in the top between the legs and the cross piece to brace it, but you could use other timber or as
previous poster said plywood. In hindsight it probably wasn't necessary.
Finally I added $5 40 or 50kg rated hard black plastic castor wheels on the bottom of each leg so the whole thing can be moved around. I used three on
each leg - one at either end and one in the middle under the joint. Again 2 would probably be enough. If you don't want to move it then just delete
the castors.
I picked all this up from Bunnings because it was convenient. It is extremely strong and can be completely broken down and used for landscaping or
stored until SWMBO allows you to buy another project.
If this is all double dutch, let me know and I will get some photos, or PM me with your email and I can send the photos to you.
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silver
Veteran Volks Folk
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| posted on January 29th, 2014 at 09:22 PM |
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What are you sawing?
Keeping it real !
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