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posted on March 16th, 2014 at 04:35 PM
Tweety's overhaul includingVW auto
Biting the bullet here. Taken out my EA81 and SPFI system. Purchased a 38/38 weber carbie synchronic. Going for a full reco.
While I'm at it I have never been completely happey with the now very old VW type 3 full auto trans in terms of operation. By the way a Subie auto
will not fit- too long. Besides am happy with the VW.
What are the things to looks for when inspecting this auto unit and the mods to do?
The auto has had one nagging issue that being when changing from first to second if too much throttle used it can easily over rev.
The torque converter has never been touched. How can it be checked? what are the signs of problems? is it worth taking it to a auto specialist with
the auto trans for checking?
Finally, I am considering extending the auto kickdown modulator vacuum hose to go more towards the driver so the driver can adjust it on the run. A
small air adjuster would be sought to do this rather than getting under the trike to adjudt the standard mudulator.
I am aware of the critical mod of installing two seals instead of one between the auto and the axle. Are there any other changes? What measures can
I take to stop oil leakage? A 'O' ring was recently replaced on the ip stick tube somewhere, by a mechanic.
The axle has no issues excpet the two seal at the CV's which I have and will be replaced.
I'm posting this as I dont want to repeat the drivetrain extraction ever again!! Hope you guys have some ideas
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posted on March 16th, 2014 at 07:26 PM
hi tweety,just so you are aware,the modulator can only be adjusted by the grub screw in the centre off the modulator.changing the vacuum pressure wont
work.as far as a double seal between the transmission and diff,there is only room for one seal as the diff housing is not deep enough.use a good
quality seal and it should be okay.i ran one for about 8yrs without any probs.
tweety
Wolfsburg Wizard
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posted on March 16th, 2014 at 08:21 PM
ok, modulator - makes sense.
I have read a few times where there is two seal used. I thought it was between the auto and axle as if that seal fails the auto fails. but we hold on
till that is clarified by someone that might know.
" The Type 3 automatic is a very solid transmission. They are known to go for over 100k miles with no problems. The worst problem can be the torque
converter seal leaking, and there is a trick to fixing that: Put 2 seals in it. They did not like being run low on fluid"
and this. "While you have the tranny out, replace the seal between the transmission and final drive. Takes about 10 miutes and 4 bolts. They only
last 7 years or 70k. When they fail the tranny is toast within minutes."
So I likely got the two mixed up. thanks mate for your reply.
