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Author: Subject:  Replacing Accelerator Cable
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posted on April 5th, 2014 at 06:56 PM
Replacing Accelerator Cable


Hi Dubbers,

I have two questions about replacing my accelerator cable:
1 - When I try to push through the new cable I get about 60cm from the end and it stops (about the rear of the tunnel). I also have no luck starting from the rear. I get through the shroud but it doesn't go into the tunnel guide (just spills into the space above the transmission).
2 - I if ever get this the thing through the shroud it will not line up with the carburetor. it will come out about 1.5cm too close to centre and about 3cm too high.
The car is a 56 beetle and the engine is a 71 1500 or 1600.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Joel
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posted on April 5th, 2014 at 07:51 PM



The cable is fed from the front L/H/S to the rear,the cable is covered by a cover held in place on the transmission tunnel by 2 bolts (opposite the pedal cluster),remove the 2 bolts and the cover,pull the broken cable out,lube the new cable as you feed it into the tube when it comes out of the rear of the chassis there may be a plastic tube (not very likely these days)connected to the throttle tube through the fan housing,if not have someone hold the throttle tube and feed the accelerator cable through the tube and connect the cable to the fitting on the carby link,refit the cover plate on the tunnel. Go and have a beer -job done.:yes:
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posted on April 8th, 2014 at 02:59 PM



Thanks Grumble but I am getting rather parched.

Its easy to start the cable down at the pedal end but about 60cm from the end it stops dead!

The other issue is the exit from the fan shroud. The tube will not even come close to lining up with the carb linkage (3cm off line!). Do diferent shrouds have different penetrations for the cable?

This car is a complete miss match of parts and I can see why it was sold.

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posted on April 8th, 2014 at 04:48 PM



Have a look in the gearshift coupling hole on the top of the tunnel under the rear seat,you should be able to locate the throttle tube and whether it is broken or cracked. From there under the rear of the car where the clutch cable comes out you will see the end of the tube (there is usually a rubber grommet to keep the dirt out) try pushing a piece of welding wire,No 8 fencing wire,coat hanger or any thing reasonably solid into it,this will tell you if the tube is blocked.Yes the holes in the fan housings are different depending on what carb,manifold,governor was fitted. You can get around this by working out where the cable needs to run to work the throttle lever and redrill the housing to suit ( be careful because of the oil cooler). I know what you mean as I had a 1500 single port motor in my '55 a lot of years ago and we modified to suit.
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posted on April 8th, 2014 at 10:27 PM



Your a champ Grumble. I can now have that beer.
Got the cable in. The carbie will not close with it being not lined up. Would it be worth replacing it. And if so how hard would that be? Anyone have a spare in Melbourne's east?
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posted on April 9th, 2014 at 12:15 PM



You will find that most of the carbs are a standard measurement to the spindle,is it a single port engine ? Is the carb a 30PICT or a 34PICT as the 34's have the lever offset to the left,you may have to either change carbs or redrill the housing. How about a couple of pics so we can see just what you have.
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posted on April 9th, 2014 at 06:10 PM



Hi

I usually bend the cover over the cable lever out of the way, that saves upsetting the clutch adjustment and if you look at the cover it has cut outs to allow that.

Steve
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posted on April 9th, 2014 at 07:08 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 1303Steve
Hi

I usually bend the cover over the cable lever out of the way, that saves upsetting the clutch adjustment and if you look at the cover it has cut outs to allow that.

Steve
Hi Steve I think it is at the carby end that he is having trouble,it appears to be a mismatch of parts from his description. If he can post a couple of pics we will be able to see just what he has.
Cheers Les


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