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Camo
A.k.a.: Kev
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posted on April 16th, 2014 at 04:07 PM |
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What method do you use to clearance cam
Hi all,
Firstly I did a search under clearancing cam, clearance cam, camshaft clearance, camshaft gap, camshaft clearancing, clearancing camshaft and other
things similar. All with no find on this site and yeas from the beginning - WTF. Surely it has been mentioned, I just can't find it
Anyway, what methods do you use to clearance the camshaft. Milling, grinder, lathe, die grinder, file (take a while), flapper wheel or what.
I would like to just do it at home for free, but also don't want any issues with weakening the camshaft. I personally don't like the idea of
reducing the whole circumference on a lathe, I would just like to do the flat spots x 8.
Thanks, Kev
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Craig Torrens
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posted on April 16th, 2014 at 05:05 PM |
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Plenty info out there.......google is your friend !
http://vwpwr.com/inbetween-races-the-turn-around/
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=323796
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=42457
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Camo
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posted on April 16th, 2014 at 06:49 PM |
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Thanks Craig,
I think I had already read those 3 links, but was just after feedback of what people here are doing. I have a die grinder but am a little reluctant
to use that, so I may buy a narrower wheel for my bench grinder and try that. Just need to be careful that I don't get to much heat into it.
Kev
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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posted on April 16th, 2014 at 06:53 PM |
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Ive never done one, so good luck
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matberry
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posted on April 16th, 2014 at 07:09 PM |
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I've done some.....
I use a die grinder then flap wheel.
Like you said Kev, with big strokes the clearancing is best done in the areas that are necessary, the machined method becomes too weak for my
liking.
How did you go with the cam gears?
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Camo
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posted on April 16th, 2014 at 07:44 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by Craig Torrens
Ive never done one, so good luck
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Craig that's because you are not a stroker like me. Hang on a minute, that is meant to be the other way around
Mat - all good thanks, just a bit of wet and dry and all good. Just went out and bought a flapper wheel, so might try the die grinder and see how it
goes.
Thanks, Kev
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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posted on April 16th, 2014 at 08:22 PM |
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Camo
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posted on April 17th, 2014 at 06:10 PM |
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Well, I got into it today and am happy with the outcome. Due to the shape of my rods, I made the clearaning curved rather than flat like others I
have seen on the net.
Was trial and error, checking for clearance, pull it out and take a little more off it, back in and check, pull out and take more off again until I
was happy with all.
Hopefully I have done it right. Thanks again for your input.
Kev
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matberry
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posted on April 17th, 2014 at 06:17 PM |
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What clearance spec are you shooting for Kev? For that matter, what stroke and type of crank, and rpm do you expect, it's all relevant to this job
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Camo
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posted on April 17th, 2014 at 10:21 PM |
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Hi Mat,
that photo my be a little deceiving. Trying to hold the conrod, the camera/phone and push the button all at once I may have altered the angle of rod
making the gap look huge. I was aiming for 1mm or 40 thou, Scat crank and rods and I hope to rev it to about 6.5 - 7k.
Have a good long weekend (all), Kev
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matberry
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posted on April 17th, 2014 at 11:08 PM |
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Thanks Kev, I was actually thinking it was looking tight. With type1/Chev journal crank (my guess) I'd recommend every bit of that and closer to
0.060 radial clearance for me to be happy. Enjoy Easter
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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fish26
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posted on April 18th, 2014 at 09:55 PM |
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Kev, hows your crank cheek and lifter to lobe clearance and rod cap to cam bearing shoulder clearance?
I also like to slight arris the cam lobe edges just to get rid of the jag.
bitten by the bug..........several times
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Camo
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posted on April 19th, 2014 at 11:09 AM |
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Hi big fish,
have already taken the edges of the cam lobes and will make a few more checks today with what you mentioned thanks.
This is a photo I already had taken showing lobe to lifter clearance, I haven't measured the gap but will also do that today. What's your thoughts
on gap size here.
Cheers, Kev
EDIT: Just measured and there is only .08mm or 30 thou gap, is this enough ??
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matberry
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posted on April 19th, 2014 at 03:38 PM |
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*[edited]* oops
0.040" for lifter clearance, it's easy to get by radiusing the id of the lifter bore
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Camo
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posted on April 19th, 2014 at 08:13 PM |
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Thanks Mat, looks like more mods required to the engine case. Glad I am double checking all this stuff before I bolt it together
Kev
EDIT: Mat, just been looking at the net and found this. Not disregarding your thoughts, just showing another's view -
Don't machine your lifter bores. Get the thin base lifters.
Machining the lifter bores can cause low oil pressure if the machinist goes a bit too deep.
I have a very expensive aluminum "race case" with machined bores that has always had low pressure when hot. I have to run a 30mm Melling pump in it
to compensate.Oil pressure escapes from around the lifter when the bore boss is shortened.
Click here for the LINK to this
info.
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fish26
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posted on April 19th, 2014 at 09:56 PM |
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I like min 0.040" max 0.070" but have run as little as 0.025" on a mild cam 1776
There are a couple of ways to skin a cat as long as you're within spec, it's the first time I hear of low oil pressure due to lifter bore to
shoulder clearance most likely caused by incorrect lifter body to bore clearance, lifters do vary in thickness if ever so slightly which will affect
oil pressure.
Will check out the link in question.
bitten by the bug..........several times
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matberry
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posted on April 19th, 2014 at 10:34 PM |
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I agree with Ben, that the oil pressure issues are excessive lifter bore clearances where the lifter is often under factory spec. This in a mild case
can be rectified by ceramic coating the lifter, and a bad case, resleeving the lifter bores.
To get the cam full lift clearance, only a small radius is required for cams I've used and so this becomes negligible regarding weakening the lifter
bore or reducing oil pressure. Having said that, I have to appologise as I rethought/checked my original spec for the full lift clearance required,
0.040" (1mm) is all that is required hence the small amount of radius required to achieve this. I have ammended my original post to reflect this.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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fish26
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posted on April 20th, 2014 at 11:51 AM |
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c'mon Matty you were just testing us amateurs to see if anyones paying attention.
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HappyDaze
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posted on April 20th, 2014 at 12:15 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by fish26
c'mon Matty you were just testing us amateurs to see if anyones paying attention.
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Ahaah....you spotted the 'deliberate mistake', fish.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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matberry
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posted on April 20th, 2014 at 03:05 PM |
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Yeah testing you guys....all part of the fun.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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fish26
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posted on April 20th, 2014 at 09:22 PM |
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Matt, that engine of yours is a testament of your workmanship, smooth as silk, revs nice, drives hard and streetable.
Kev, whats the rest of the combo on this beast? or is there a build thread? How's your cam thrust and are there any tight spots on cam/crank gear?
bitten by the bug..........several times
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