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Author: Subject:  Hydraulic clutch
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posted on May 10th, 2015 at 04:24 PM
Hydraulic clutch


okay so have many people done a hydraulic conversion for the clutch.. Let's see some photos

I have been playing with measurements to fit a master cylinder in on early pedals and will hopefully get it all welded up during the week to cut the pan and weld it in.

It's super tight seeing as I'm trying not too modify the body at all:lol:

Jake

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posted on May 10th, 2015 at 05:08 PM



why you need to do that , what's wrong with cable ???
try asking the Buggys guys




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posted on May 10th, 2015 at 05:23 PM



good clutch upgrade:
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/50/a7/e2/50a7e2b8e81b7fc3bbd90ddd7b6bc6cb.jpg
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posted on May 10th, 2015 at 07:05 PM



Why?



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posted on May 10th, 2015 at 07:08 PM



ask the Buggy guys, some of them run hydraulic.
but we run stage 3 clutches and its just a mater of making the release lever longer and cheap to do .

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posted on May 10th, 2015 at 07:55 PM



Hi Jake,
In response to your question "HOW" not "WHY". You obviously have gone through the pros and cons and don't need to justify why you want a hydraulic clutch. I will be fitting one as well.
Here are a few photos of a particularly good setup I found online.

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1961 K Ghia - Porsche 5 sp, EJ20T, Brembo's, Dble A arm susp
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posted on May 10th, 2015 at 07:56 PM



A few more

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1961 K Ghia - Porsche 5 sp, EJ20T, Brembo's, Dble A arm susp
1974 L Bug - Porsche 944 brakes, Boxster 16's
1974 Bay Camper - EJ20, twin radiators, Boxster 16x7's
Half Beetle trailer with Boxster 16x7's
2011 Tiguan TDI 4Motion
2010 LR Discovery 4 TDV
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posted on May 10th, 2015 at 07:57 PM



:lol::crazy::lol: looks tricky to top up the fluid :lol::crazy: like I said ask some of the buggy owners they know their stuff.
PS Bizarre and me are older and wiser that's why we would ask , why make things harder then they need to be, :lol:
the question may be clearer when they explain why they want to do it. ????




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posted on May 10th, 2015 at 08:07 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by ian.mezz
:lol::crazy::lol: looks tricky to top up the fluid :lol::crazy: like I said ask some of the buggy owners they know their stuff.


You continue to amaze me with your level of ignorance and reluctance to think outside the square:dork:




1961 K Ghia - Porsche 5 sp, EJ20T, Brembo's, Dble A arm susp
1974 L Bug - Porsche 944 brakes, Boxster 16's
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Half Beetle trailer with Boxster 16x7's
2011 Tiguan TDI 4Motion
2010 LR Discovery 4 TDV
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posted on May 10th, 2015 at 08:11 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by karmann141
Quote:
Originally posted by ian.mezz
:lol::crazy::lol: looks tricky to top up the fluid :lol::crazy: like I said ask some of the buggy owners they know their stuff.


You continue to amaze me with your level of ignorance and reluctance to think outside the square:dork:

a fool and his money is easy parted .:lol::lol:




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posted on May 10th, 2015 at 08:12 PM



Unless you have a really heavy clutch there's no need

you may want to do it for the exercise in engineering

The buggy guys do it as they get flex in the chassis

Fitting a later model longer clutch arm will help




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posted on May 10th, 2015 at 08:15 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by karmann141
Quote:
Originally posted by ian.mezz
:lol::crazy::lol: looks tricky to top up the fluid :lol::crazy: like I said ask some of the buggy owners they know their stuff.


You continue to amaze me with your level of ignorance and reluctance to think outside the square:dork:

you know that I have a Subaru powered beetle




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posted on May 10th, 2015 at 08:48 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by ian.mezz
Quote:
Originally posted by karmann141
Quote:
Originally posted by ian.mezz
:lol::crazy::lol: looks tricky to top up the fluid :lol::crazy: like I said ask some of the buggy owners they know their stuff.


You continue to amaze me with your level of ignorance and reluctance to think outside the square:dork:

you know that I have a Subaru powered beetle


You mean " you're a bit of a dick - not your a bit of a dick"
Hey Ian we can stoop to name calling but that's not my style. When you have an opinion, you seem to be unwilling to listen to anyone else's - just an observation.




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posted on May 10th, 2015 at 10:46 PM



Well the clutch tube is shot and seeing as both option as equally as hard to fix I picked the one where you don't have to chop up as much of the structural part of the pan which is harder for me to fix as I'm no pro welder just yet. And seeing as I have a bare pan why not....I mean no car runs a clutch cable these days...it must have its benefits. It's more serviceable, I believe you get a better feel as it works both ways unlike a cable.

Plus I don't think that a longer arm is really a proper fix, I mean all your pedal travel to clutch movement would go out the window by putting a longer lever arm on. But hey if it works it works I spose, I just want to put in the hard yards now while it's not to hard.

Thanks for those photos btw karmann, at least I know what I have drawn up is on the right track
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posted on May 11th, 2015 at 06:40 AM



Exactly the same as I did on another car I built, later pedals are easier as the are fabricated and can be welded easily, as the early pedals are cast steel. use a master cylinder with a remote reservoir, as it will absorb water into the system through the vent hole when it is mounted next to the master cylinder.
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posted on May 11th, 2015 at 05:10 PM



Quote:

Well the clutch tube is shot and seeing as both option as equally as hard to fix I picked the one where you don't have to chop up



OK so that makes sense

The later long arm makes it easier to push or a lighter pedal I have a Kennedy 1800lbs pressure plate and its much easier

Most new cars use hydraulics due to motor orientation and short distances


Great how to do pics as well




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posted on May 11th, 2015 at 07:52 PM



haha, those are my pedals! - got a smaller remote res master as that was purely for sizing / confirming theory. and it was done because I have a built box with hydro turbo subaru setup & will end up with a heavier clutch once all is said & done. why? because cable changes suck & why not? clutch feel can be changed by changing cylinder size as well as arm lenghts/pivot points.



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posted on May 11th, 2015 at 09:45 PM



Well done and well said. I could'nt remember where I copied the pics from (otherwise I would've given you the credit), but it looked like a good setup. Good to hear straight from from the source.



1961 K Ghia - Porsche 5 sp, EJ20T, Brembo's, Dble A arm susp
1974 L Bug - Porsche 944 brakes, Boxster 16's
1974 Bay Camper - EJ20, twin radiators, Boxster 16x7's
Half Beetle trailer with Boxster 16x7's
2011 Tiguan TDI 4Motion
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posted on May 11th, 2015 at 10:38 PM



Hi

I did the same thing as Dave, I think we came came up with this solution together online, only I used Superbug M/C which has an angled mounting which allowed me to move the M/C further over. Im on my laptop at work at the moment so cant post pictures as there's none on it but there are some in my build thread.

Sometimes modifications that I and others do are about journey.

I bought a really nice hydraulic clutch setup at Moore Parts last year for a friend.

Steve
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posted on May 12th, 2015 at 06:46 AM



You can eliminate the throw out fork and arm by using a throw out bearing that goes over the input shaft, just have to find the correct height.
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posted on May 12th, 2015 at 11:16 AM



Check out my build thread, I put the master in the tunnel to eliminate having to move the brake master cylinder around, (i was getting the car engineered so didn't want those hassles) http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=102601  it's in the middle somewhere...!



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posted on May 12th, 2015 at 11:21 AM



The kit I got off Paul at Steelart, it was originally designed for a access hole to be cut in the tunnel, hence my reason for lengthening the pushrod to put it further forward into the frame head area. Didn't want to cut a hole in the tunnel.



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posted on May 12th, 2015 at 06:51 PM



Hi

This is the one I bought back states last year
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=c...
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posted on May 12th, 2015 at 09:36 PM



the cnc kit is what i am using for mine, i bought the 3/4 bore in red.. ill pop up some photos once the new piece i made is installed. the parts are very good quality on first look i must say, i was impressed.
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posted on May 13th, 2015 at 08:00 PM



we drive bugs with over 300hp and a long arm works fine , its just one off of a newer model beetle , why change German engineering.
Its your time and money spend it how you like.
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posted on May 13th, 2015 at 08:10 PM



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3l8xvH242zA 
and look we had a 1970 bug we EFI & a computer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=865VVCE1c1A 

here is the driver :blush: of the green and red race/street car she only small, but has no trouble with those besky heavy VW clutches :blush:
a clutch cable broke while at Canberra 1/2 hour on the side of the road and we were off again as we always carry a spare cable




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posted on May 13th, 2015 at 08:32 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by aircooledjake
Well the clutch tube is shot and seeing as both option as equally as hard to fix I picked the one where you don't have to chop up as much of the structural part of the pan which is harder for me to fix as I'm no pro welder just yet. And seeing as I have a bare pan why not....I mean no car runs a clutch cable these days...it must have its benefits. It's more serviceable, I believe you get a better feel as it works both ways unlike a cable.

Plus I don't think that a longer arm is really a proper fix, I mean all your pedal travel to clutch movement would go out the window by putting a longer lever arm on. But hey if it works it works I spose, I just want to put in the hard yards now while it's not to hard.

Thanks for those photos btw karmann, at least I know what I have drawn up is on the right track

we have a 1956 oval on a 1968 auto pan with no clutch tube at all and the cable works fine :blush:the picture that I shared shows VW beetle parts, not no fancy after market stuff it just a newer lever off of a newer beetle it was a Volkswagen improvement .
Hope that you get its sorted and it don't end up sitting to long in the shed.:blush:




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posted on May 14th, 2015 at 07:13 AM



Each to there own, that's alright the you have had a good run with your standard set up but there is also nothing wrong with the hydraulic set up. it is even better if you eliminate the standard fork and throw out bearing.
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posted on May 14th, 2015 at 07:02 PM



I wasn’t going to waste my time responding to you Ian, but seeing as how this is the second time you’ve called me a ‘dick’, I feel I’m entitled to a right of reply.

What sort of a MORON are you that you just don’t get it ??? :dork: – Jake has asked to see pictures of hydraulic clutch conversions – NOT which is better, hydraulic or cable. Why can’t you get it through your thick skull? No-one is arguing with you. A cable is fine but he doesn’t f_ _ _king want one.

When I spoke to you in Warwick, I lost count of the times you told me you were a mechanic – who are trying to convince? As for announcing that you’re a “member of the institute of automotive mechanical engineers for the last 30 years” – any monkey can be a member as long as you pay the annual fee. You would have been better off spending your annual membership fee on toilet paper.




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1974 L Bug - Porsche 944 brakes, Boxster 16's
1974 Bay Camper - EJ20, twin radiators, Boxster 16x7's
Half Beetle trailer with Boxster 16x7's
2011 Tiguan TDI 4Motion
2010 LR Discovery 4 TDV
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posted on May 17th, 2015 at 12:32 PM



Something tells me that karmann141 and ian.mezz dont really get along :dork:
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