| [ Total Views: 1608 | Total Replies: 15 | Thread Id: 109760 ] |
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 wombatventures
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| posted on September 7th, 2015 at 01:20 PM |
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Type 3 CV joints?
The CV joints on our 71 Automatic Notch sound a bit grindy under load. Just as you accelerate. Once in top gear or if you coast they go quiet. At
least the local mechanic seems to think it will be the CVs. Any other diagnosis from people who dont run to close the gate on an aircooled Dub would
be appreciated.
I've got a reasonably good set off our 74 Super bug, the CVs look the same but wut the shafts look a bit shorter. Could I change the joints over on
the shafts to get it on the road until I can get new CVs?
Course it had to happen the week I needed it!
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mackaymanx
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| posted on September 7th, 2015 at 04:20 PM |
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You have one shaft shorter and one shaft longer than the manual shafts(type 1 or 3), CVs are the same.
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
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wombatventures
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| posted on September 7th, 2015 at 07:31 PM |
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Thanks Brent. Might change them over onto the Notch shafts. Not really convinced that it is the CVs. But if I Change them and the noise stops then its
easier than a transmission problem. 
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 vw54
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| posted on September 7th, 2015 at 08:05 PM |
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you really should pull the CVs apart and clean n inspect if there starting to Gaul or pit chuck them
will save you a lot of time in the long run
you can mix n match centers n outers or just buy a new set make sure you get good boots
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wombatventures
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| posted on September 7th, 2015 at 08:56 PM |
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Will give them a full clean and inspect before they go in. Does the noise issue sound like CVs?
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nbturbo
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| posted on September 7th, 2015 at 10:23 PM |
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They won't have all shit themselves at the same time- grab the half shafts and push up and down at each CV joint and look for excess movement - then
hold the inner one tight and slowly rotate the wheel back n forth and look for excess play- if one is noisy you will find play in it. When
found,replace with one your happy with, wash and repack them all. Guess first thing to check for is a rooted boot- that's normally a good indication
of which one is u/s
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vw54
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| posted on September 8th, 2015 at 07:37 AM |
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as per above ripped CV boots are a thing to look for
they usually make a clinking noise not constant check where the ball fits in the race smooth n polished is good pitting is bad
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on September 8th, 2015 at 08:42 AM |
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Make a note of their rotating direction and reverse them when when you put them back together, makes them last much longer
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wombatventures
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| posted on September 9th, 2015 at 11:04 AM |
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Cheers guys.
I've given them all a close look and checked for play. None seem to have any issues. No rooted boots but quite a bit of oil around governor
(passenger side) of the box and along the trans pan edge. There is quite a bit of oil around the drive cover plate as well, im assuming that would be
seals that are weeping. Is the diff seperate from the gearbox oil wise on an auto or will they be running in auto trans oil?
I would have expected a more clicking sound if it were the cv joints rather than a rasping sound.
In the cab the sound is amplified through the airvents. It anly occurs on acceleration in low and second gear and stops once in drive or not under
heavy load. Shifts don't seem to be as precise as previously either. Most likely a good opportunity for a full box overhaul.
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nbturbo
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| posted on September 9th, 2015 at 11:46 PM |
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Been a while since I played with one- you mean the governor tin cover with the wire clip. From memory the gov. Shaft has an o ring. Good luck stopping
the pan leaking.I have tried a few different methods- but they always weep.What is the drive cover plate? The diff uses a normal 80/90 type diff oil
and the auto has normal ATF.Is the motor running ok ? Hasn't got a vacuum leak to the modulator affecting throttle pressure in the trans.
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1303Steve
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| posted on September 10th, 2015 at 07:05 AM |
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the noise could be loose heads, so take the rocker gear of and retighten the lower head nuts and reset valves, I don't think you can accurately tell
the condition of CVs without dismantling them
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wombatventures
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| posted on September 10th, 2015 at 01:25 PM |
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Would loose heads show up with the engine running but not under load from the trans Steve? Engine seems fine when driving, no loss of oil, but won't
hurt to check.
Side cover for the diff, nbturbo. Will check the diff oil this arvo. Had a feeling it wouldn't be running in ATF.
Vaccuum seems ok. Just read the manual on how to test it. Will try that once I get a useable gauge.
How did the show go last weekend?
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1303Steve
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| posted on September 10th, 2015 at 06:45 PM |
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Loose heads sound like an exhaust leak when under power and at higher the engine speed it can sound like really quick
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nbturbo
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| posted on September 10th, 2015 at 09:16 PM |
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I pulled one of my spare T3 autos out and cant find a side cover for the diff.Can you do a pic please.Show went really well,we had 6 VW's amongst a
really good selection of cars including Aussie Muscle Cars.3 really top class hot rods and a bit of everything else.On my way home today from Town,I
called into Pirie to check on the Drag Car-he has fitted the new Wolf ECU,completly rewired the car from the ECU back,fitted 2 new ignition modules
right alongside the coil packs and promised me it will be ready to be picked up in a weeks time-I am sure hoping.
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1303Steve
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| posted on September 11th, 2015 at 08:31 AM |
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loose head noise http://www.ratwell.com/mirror/Muir/loosehead.wav
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wombatventures
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| posted on September 11th, 2015 at 10:15 PM |
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Thanks Steve. At least I know its not that now. Mines more only at slow speed, not much power on, just taking off.
Hey Nbturbo, we're at Morgan Saturday for a BBQ near the ferry if you want a drive. Should be a few Dubs.
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