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 *did*
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| posted on September 10th, 2003 at 06:08 PM |
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What oil should I use?
Just bought myself a 1970 Beetle with a '73 1600 in it last week. Decided I better change the oil.
I have read alot about what oil to use but am still unsure.
In John Muir's book he talks about detergent and non-detergent oils.
How do I know whether my current oil is detergent or non-det?
In regard to grade: I talked to Volkspower and they say to use 25W-60.
What recommendations do you have?
Thanks
[Edited on 10-9-2003 by *did*] |
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Baja Wes
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| posted on September 10th, 2003 at 08:09 PM |
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Don't worry about detergent and non-detergent oils. That book is very old and it's not an issue these days.
Use any good 20W50 oil and you should be fine. Go for a decent specification like SJ or later oils (ie SJ, SL etc)
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on September 10th, 2003 at 09:10 PM |
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I wouldn't use anything but Castrol Magnatec oil.. IMHO the best.... and Your Beetle engine naturally should have the best.... I don't
want My beetle engine to wear out for a long long time...:thumb
Castrol Magnatec 5L for under $30.00
There are so many oils out there, its a difficult decision, but once You have picked one and it seems OK, stick with it.
Don't mix oils... Buy the best You can afford... cheers Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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 Bizarre
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| posted on September 10th, 2003 at 09:17 PM |
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what ever oil - regularity is more important.
Cheap oil changed every 3 - 5,ooo kms is better thant big buck oil changed every 10,000 kms
PS
Congratulations on the purchase.
(damn edit mode - cant see what was typed)
Your first?
Was it a 71? - super or standard?
[Edited on 10-9-2003 by blue74l]
Futue te ipsum!!!
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on September 10th, 2003 at 09:47 PM |
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I personally wouldn't use 25w60 engine oil in an air cooled VW Engine...
the original grade recommended was 30 grade oil... a light grade engine oil.
Castrol Magnatec is a 10w40 engine oil.
Not too heavy to slow down the oil cooling in the VW oil cooler..
and Yes, regularity is the Key...
every 3000 miles. change the oil...
cheers
Lee
[Edited on 10-9-2003 by 68AutoBug]
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Baja Wes
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| posted on September 11th, 2003 at 08:19 AM |
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I've heard lots of negative things about Castrol Magnetic, and would never use it.
Do a search on the net and you'll see what I mean.
A mineral oil will give less oil leaks than a synthetic oil. That's a big plus for the mineral oil in a VW motor.
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VWCOOL
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| posted on September 11th, 2003 at 08:52 AM |
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Yeah, not real keen on the old Magnatec - made the lifters in my V8s and a Pajero go ticky ticky. I've used GTX2 in everythig I own for years -
inlcuding a 1916cc Beetle. (Daily driver and circuit sprints) Change every 2000 miles in the Beetle and my old cruiser and 5000km in the daily driver.
No oil filter in a beetle and carbys/chokes and shorter trips contaminates oil with petrol far more than EFI
Pay your debts, CxxT
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Baja Wes
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| posted on September 11th, 2003 at 10:25 AM |
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cars with hydraulic lifters are different, and need higher quality oil. I tried SL grade mineral oil in my V6 and it didn't like it. Noisy
lifters. Then I got some advise off the MX6 boys and they said to run a thin high quality 5W-30 synthetic. I did that (Castrol Synthetic R) and the
lifter noise went away. They also don't like magnetic.
But the VW engine does not have any hydraulic lifters or other fancy bearings, and therefore does not need a fancy oil. Like blue says, just change it
more often. You can buy good oil for the VW for about $14.
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Tazz
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| posted on September 11th, 2003 at 12:42 PM |
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According to the spec sheet for castrol.
20W 50 (Or GTX2) is the recomended oil for use.
I think we had this before didnt we Wes?
I use Castrol Formula R 25W-50 (The old GP50) in the 1916 in summer and GTX 2 in winter......
Castrol Magnatec is only a 10W 40.
Synthetics or Semi Synthetics are not good for Aircooled engines as the Castrol Tech Head told us..
Thats what GTX and GTX 2 are for....
Tazz.
1962 Type3 Squareback
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The truth is important. It will set you free
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*did*
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| posted on September 11th, 2003 at 06:05 PM |
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Thanks guys,
I think I will go for the GTX2, as its cheap and easy to get a hold of.
For those who were wondering: my beetle is a 1970 1500 body, but with a '73 1600 (AD) in it. Extractors, 009 dizzy, different cam (not sure
which), lightened flywheel. And yeah, its my first! |
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on September 12th, 2003 at 07:50 AM |
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Tazz
OK.. I am changing to GTX2 also....
I looked up Castrol and air cooled industrial engines and GTX2 is recommended for VW engines....
They don't list Beetles etc any more on their oil recommendation list for cars.
Thanks for the info..
cheers
Lee
PS. I'll keep the Magnatec for My Lancer.
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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oval TOFU
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| posted on September 12th, 2003 at 03:37 PM |
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I'm lazy and couldn't be bothered trying to find the articles on the negative effects of Castrol's Magnetec maaaaaaaaan. Could someone
who's been there post up some links please? Thanks
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
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 helbus
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| posted on September 12th, 2003 at 05:22 PM |
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I bought a 20 litre drum of Penrite HPR30 20-60 grade. Mineral oil that covers a large range of viscosity and isn't too expensive. I change both
the Beetle and the Bus every 5000km.
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*did*
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| posted on September 12th, 2003 at 06:59 PM |
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Hey, Hellbus!
You're in Blackburn, I live in Blacky too, but my beetles in Ringwood.
Nice bus |
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dubcab
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| posted on September 12th, 2003 at 07:17 PM |
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oils aint oils
If synthetic oils aren't recommended for air-cooleds why did Porsche use Mobil 1 in all their air-cooled and new stuff for the last 15 years?
I'm sure there's almost as much stress on my 1835 pushing 1.8ton of kombi up the toowoomba range every day, so it has nothing to do
with" high performance engines" and more to do with longevity. Where is the scientific facts to say that synthetic oils aren't suitable
for an air-cooled engine. If I can get 250,000 ks between rebuilds I'll use the best oil I can get with filter changes every 3000ks and oil
changes every 6000. Everyone has an opinion on what they think is best for their car , but I'll trust Porsche experience for hard driven
air-cooled's until I'm proven wrong.
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helbus
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| posted on September 12th, 2003 at 08:54 PM |
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*did*
You will see more of the bus now that the weather is getting better. Also the beetle is going off the road for a quick respray soon, so Fleur will be
driving the bus everyday again.
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on September 12th, 2003 at 09:39 PM |
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So what oil do You use Dubcab??
Mobil one is a bit expensive for Me....
I know My Beetle deserves the Best... but not Mobil 1...
Magnatec is just under $30 for 5 litres.
Castrol GTX 2 is around $18 for 5 litres.
My Son uses Shell 20w60 oil in His Beetle.
its cheaper still... (for older vehicles)
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Grey 57
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| posted on September 13th, 2003 at 09:15 AM |
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A work mate of mine was a Product Manager at Castrol up until 18months ago. (now he works for us).
His recomendation for air cooled VW's is Castrol GTX2. Good enough for me.
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Baja Wes
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| posted on September 13th, 2003 at 09:35 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by dubcab
If synthetic oils aren't recommended for air-cooleds why did Porsche use Mobil 1 in all their air-cooled and new stuff for the last 15 years?
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I hate to say this, but your VW motor and a Porsche motor are completely different. Even in the late 60's porsche had components with higher oil
demands than the VW motor like overhead cams which were chain driven.
The VW motor does not have any components that necessitate a synthetic oil. If you want to run one that's fine, but I believe the high price is
not justified.
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Jay_1965vw
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| posted on September 14th, 2003 at 05:56 PM |
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Hey *did* I live in Ringwood Small world!
Jay and Wolf
Part of Melbourne's Unreal Aircooled VW Community
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oval TOFU
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| posted on September 14th, 2003 at 11:53 PM |
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I live in blacky too! maybe i'll see you around when Belle decides to behave more!
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
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Andy
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| posted on September 15th, 2003 at 09:46 AM |
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I know a number of type 4 Kombi motors with well over 200,000 miles from original on both synthetic and mineral oils.
As I mentioned in the other oil thread, synthetic oil will be have a more stable viscosity at hight temps. This is not the bulk oil temp in your sump
but around the rings/valves where the oil is subjected to temps over 400degC.
As Wes says there is no real benefit using synthetics in an old VW (even though some kombi's do have hydraulic lifters on the valves).
The best thing is to get an oil pressure gauge and ensure the pressure is within spec. When old oil starts to break down you will loose oil pressure,
so make sure you change oil before this happens, also if you run your oil hot it will also loose pressure so pick an appropirate weight to overcome
this. This is assuming an otherwise healthy engine.
Andy
:thumb
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68AutoBug
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| posted on September 15th, 2003 at 11:07 AM |
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Thanks for the Oil Pressure information Andy...
Lee
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- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on September 15th, 2003 at 09:27 PM |
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:thumb gtx2 tyvm 
let sleeping dubs lie
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KruizinKombi
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| posted on September 15th, 2003 at 09:57 PM |
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I was using Mobil XHP but changed to Castrol GTX when I rebuilt the motor.
Kruizin Kol
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oval TOFU
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| posted on September 16th, 2003 at 01:32 PM |
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Ain't GTX2 and Super XHP pretty much the same anyways? All this everyday 20W-50 oil is all refined from the same base oil and the separate
companies add in thier own additives... Isn't it?
I use Mobil XHP anyways... I used Mobile 1 once... but i wouldn't get enough oil pressure at idle... and after a run to Torquay in my 72 Beetle
1500, it smelt pretty hot....
[Edited on 16-9-2003 by oval TOFU]
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
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KruizinKombi
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| posted on September 16th, 2003 at 07:16 PM |
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Yeah they are, but since I'd just rebuilt the motor (ie. it had NO oil in it), I figured I'd swap over to what the manual recommended, just
for the hell of it.
Kruizin Kol
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oval TOFU
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Bitte, ein Bit!
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| posted on September 17th, 2003 at 03:27 PM |
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Would it be ok to use a heavier grade of oil in my 1200 (coz of crap compression)? Soemthing like 25W-60? I think Shell or Penzoil market an oil for
older cars that have a higher viscosity rating...
It wouldn't be too thick for a humble VW engine would it?
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
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Tazz
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| posted on September 17th, 2003 at 04:38 PM |
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Wouldn't hurt....
You could go for Penrite HPR 30 if you wish....
Just keep up the oil changes..
1962 Type3 Squareback
1967 Type3 Fastback "Kermit"
The truth is important. It will set you free
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Andy
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| posted on September 17th, 2003 at 06:17 PM |
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oval TOFU,
Should be no dramas. My type 4 motor is a little worn, and on a trip to Adelaide was loosing oil pressure (worn bearings) in the 40+ deg heat. I
changed to shell 25W70 sport oil I think, problem solved. I would only do it to extend the life on an old motor though.
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