| [ Total Views: 999 | Total Replies: 9 | Thread Id: 13722 ] |
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 blup58
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| posted on September 25th, 2003 at 02:12 PM |
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Whiteline Sway Bars
G'day Guys
Just a follow up on my earlier post.
Was just hoping to get confirmation on the Whiteline series of sway bars for any of you tech guys out there in the know, or from someone who has
ordered them before.
Basically reading the tech article by Greg Ward, the general recommendation for sway bars are
(I have 58 pan with IRS conversion)
Front: 18mm
Rear: 20-24mm
If I'm reading the Whiteline catelogue correctly, which is basically what I want confirmation on, for my application it is as follows:
Front end
BWF2 (16mm) or BWF16Z (18mm - adjustable).
RearEnd
BWR2 (18mm)
What is the "Street" series about i.e Front BWF8Z and Rear BWR1Z, could I use these in my application?
Can anyone confirm whether I have read this correctly??
Is the adjustable front sway street legal in QLD.
Has any one ordered there products before? What did you order and how long was freight.
Cheers
Brad
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56astro
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| posted on September 25th, 2003 at 02:52 PM |
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I'm trying to decide exactly the same thing.
I'm leaning toward the "street" specs - BWF8Z (20mm) front & BWR1Z (24mm) rear.
After I speak with some more people I'll know for sure.
VW car, VW engine ...... keepin it "real"
35MPG on 101.3kPa |
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blup58
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| posted on September 25th, 2003 at 03:33 PM |
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Cool Steve....if you find out in the next couple of days could you let me know what you came up with vie reply post or U2U
Cheers
Brad
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VWCOOL
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| posted on September 25th, 2003 at 05:14 PM |
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Seriously, if you really want to handle, you'll need to run a BJ pan. Investment in a link front isn't an investment, it's really a bit
of a waste. The link pin front end has no adjustment for camber and is more fragile; it 'walks' around a lot more with high cornering loads
and is subject to a lot more wear. Sorry to be a wet blanket... but better you know now than have to spend your $$ twice...
Pay your debts, CxxT
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Dasdubber
A.k.a.: Alan Agyik
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| posted on September 25th, 2003 at 10:07 PM |
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Thanks vwcool, that is good info regarding limitations of link pin front end...unfortunately I think he is a bit past considering using a ball joint
front end - his pan has already been converted to IRS, and has been blasted and por15'ed, link pin front end has had adjusters welded in and he
already has cb dropped spindles to suit to run discs up front (porsche pcd).
So it would be a very expensive exercise to change now....don't want to sound defensive, but its not really an option. I have the reverse problem
in that I have a ball joint pan but swing axle rear...I guess we will just be making the most of what we have (I am giving Brad a hand with his body
off resto).
Cheers
Sorry to cut in here....
alan
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56astro
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| posted on September 25th, 2003 at 10:26 PM |
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As good as done.
Should know more tomorrow.
:thumb
VW car, VW engine ...... keepin it "real"
35MPG on 101.3kPa
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lugnuts
A.k.a.: Mike
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| posted on September 26th, 2003 at 04:15 AM |
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Hiya dude,i bought a BWF16Z for my link pin front end $225 plus $55 fitting and there one size fits all clamps and fittings suck the big one,but i can
live with that. |
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56astro
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| posted on September 26th, 2003 at 09:39 PM |
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Well
I was advised not to go too big with the sway bars, if at all!
About 16mm front, 18mm rear is ample for street use.
Unless racing is your go you won't get the advantage out of big sway bars. Much better to invest in good quality shockies.
I was convinced to not get the sway bars until after the beast is back on the road.
If I think then that I need sway bars then get them, but for every-day driving spending big $ on big sway bars is a waste of $. Especially considering
I've got the red adjustable Koni shocks.
16mm on the front is about 3-4mm over stock so that is a big difference. 18-22mm is overkill. Bigger in the rear cause of the extra weight there.
Blup, what is your set-up at the moment?
Does that all make sense? :jesus
[Edited on 26-9-2003 by 56astro]
VW car, VW engine ...... keepin it "real"
35MPG on 101.3kPa
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amazer
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| posted on September 26th, 2003 at 09:40 PM |
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The K&L front end does have camber adjustment doesnt it? All those washers in it? add some, remove some. Not as convenient as turning a balljoint
eccentric but you can play around. |
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56astro
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| posted on September 26th, 2003 at 09:53 PM |
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I think you can to a certain extent, but by the way the workshop manuals read the adjustment is VERY limited.
Too much camber and too big a strain is placed on the shims at awkward angles.
The trailing arm off-sets have got to be within tolerable limits in the first instance.
VW car, VW engine ...... keepin it "real"
35MPG on 101.3kPa
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amazer
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kombi pilot
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| posted on September 26th, 2003 at 10:20 PM |
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What about doing what us balljointers do. Take the top arm off and give it a tweak in a press to get added camber?
Most of the crappy wheel alignment places around here tell me that I dont have any camber adjustment either. With balljoints. I've been under a
few times to show them how. Generally I make the trip to East Coast in sydney if I dont need my alignment done yesterday.
Chris.... kombi pilot, oval dreamer... finisher #26971 2005 city to surf
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 vw54
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| posted on September 27th, 2003 at 06:31 AM |
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Chris and all
" The K&L front end does have camber adjustment doesnt it? "
There is NO camber adjustment in a K & L front end. The shims are to take up the difference in the arms so that they run parellal when moving
through there travel extent
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