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 physcho
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| posted on January 3rd, 2004 at 11:44 AM |
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beetle engine trouble
going home this morning from work my bert started hesitating under accelaration and backfiring (i beleive, though more of a crack than a bang). i
drove it home (under 2 minutes drive) and found that the automatic choke wire had come off, ok, i figure, it was just running with the choke fully on,
no problemo, i reattach the wire and get in to go to the shops, but the problem persists, allthough even more severe, i limped home (once again, a
minute away from home). idles fine, and once up to 35 mph it drives fine, the problem only occurs under load.
i've only had him a few months (and have no tools in the car besides a hubcap puller i made). so am about to go buy a rudimentry tool kit to keep
in the trunk.
and as such i have no idea what the problem is (this is my learner bug, one i know the ins and outs i'd like to move on to a nicer car)
my guess is fouled plugs (and one cylander not firing), faulty coil (and hence no spark) or maybe timing. am about to buy a stroboscopic timing light
(after we catch the train and get my girlfriends car). i wanted one any way, only just got the cash for it tho.
have i got no clue or are these the logical things to check? is there something blindingly obvious i have missed??
cheers
"A facility for quotation covers the absence of original thought."
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Softop
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| posted on January 3rd, 2004 at 11:53 AM |
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The backfiring bit tells me that it could be electrical, check the Distributor cap for cracks or spark plug leads for crossfiring or shorting out.
Roger.
If you drive fast enough you're past the accident before it happens !
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Anthiron
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| posted on January 3rd, 2004 at 11:54 AM |
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hmm
if it is running on 3 cylinders u will notice the lack of powerand if u open the engine bay the engine will shake as it is off balance....but id say
it sint this.....im not car expert and guys if u are feel free to correct me but it just sounds like your carby has something blocking a jet or tto
much fuel getting thru........what carbie/s do u hav....? u could try replaceing plugs too
does it start ok?
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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physcho
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| posted on January 3rd, 2004 at 12:24 PM |
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my carb is a solex 34 PICT3.
starts fine, and idles A-ok.
i wondered about something in the jet, i have a spare carb (guy who sold me the car gave it to me) and i might try swapping them over if nothing else
helps.
is it OK to pull the plugs when the engine is warm? something in my mind tells me no, but i might just be remembering the wrong thing.
Softop - electrical is what i figured (lack of spark). will check the leads (distributer cap is fine).
"A facility for quotation covers the absence of original thought."
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Anthiron
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| posted on January 3rd, 2004 at 12:27 PM |
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id wait for the engine to cool besides if its hot u will hav a hard time not burning yourself
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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Anthiron
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 posted on January 3rd, 2004 at 12:30 PM |
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i take it you hav a superbug judging from your carby :thumb good on ya (even if it isnt runng properly):P
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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physcho
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| posted on January 3rd, 2004 at 12:31 PM |
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i work as a baker so i'm pretty used to hot stuff actually. but thats a good point (i'm more worried about the car than personal safety... i
wonder if that means anything)
"A facility for quotation covers the absence of original thought."
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matara
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| posted on January 3rd, 2004 at 12:55 PM |
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Engine
Make sure your point gap isnt too large or small. This could also be the symptom of a faulty condensor. If you've not changed your points in a
while change them and the condensor (not expensive and you know they are good).
To check its not fuel take the air cleaner off and with the engine SWITCHED OFF (that includes ignition) pull the accelerator. Can you hear a hiss
from the fuel being pumped? Pull it quite fast!
Lastly when was the last time the valves were adjusted? Maybe one of the inlet/exhaust valves are tight! You'll find lots of tech articles
showing you how to do this.
Did this fault occur over time, or all of a sudden?
I like to change the plugs when the engine is warm, not roasting hot it shouldnt burn you! Doing this your using metal expansion to make it easier to
get your plug out. If you do it stone cold then theres more chance of stripping a plug thread.
Just my 2c worth without any warranties whatsoever.
Rob and Daves web pages are pretty resourceful for fixing all sorts of issues.
As with any problem, its a case of elimination to trace your fault.
Good luck!
Steve
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physcho
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| posted on January 3rd, 2004 at 01:06 PM |
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the valves were adjusted 3 or 4 weeks ago (circa 150 miles). along with all the other usual tune up stuff (replacing the plugs etc).
didn't change the points though, might do that when i can get to VW shop.
will pull the plugs now and check the leads. and see what i can see.
and yeah rob and daves page is awesome (printed off their automatic choke adjustment and solex34PICT/3 diagram and tuning procedures)
and yes it's a super, and i love it to bits. wouldn't trade it for the world.
"A facility for quotation covers the absence of original thought."
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 vw54
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| posted on January 3rd, 2004 at 01:41 PM |
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If the choke wire fell off while driving it had power going through it all the time it was off. If it fell to earth on the engine more than likely its
burnt the wire insulation through and its sometimes earthing out on the carby causing your engine misses from a power failure to the ignition
circuit.
remove the wire and check it properly and replace if necessary.
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physcho
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| posted on January 3rd, 2004 at 02:07 PM |
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turned the choke so it's off all the time (just for testing) so i'd assume even if the wire burned out it shouldn't cause the problem
to continue (should it?)
the plugs were covered in carbon, i cleaned them a bit (first with a rag then a little sand paper) this made the problem abate but it's still
most definently there. i'll try and find the set of plugs i removed when i changed them and slip them in.
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physcho
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| posted on January 3rd, 2004 at 02:18 PM |
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bugger, the old ones are just as crappy. *sigh*.
fuel is getting into the carby fine.
will check the wire carefully.
cheers
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physcho
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| posted on January 3rd, 2004 at 02:29 PM |
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i pulled the distributer cap off and the top of the rotor arm (that copper(?) bar) seems to be corroded by something, there is a hole there almost as
wide as the rotor arm at 4mm deep. can i get a new one of those or would i need a new distributer?
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Anthiron
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 posted on January 3rd, 2004 at 10:28 PM |
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sorri i hav no idea....as i said im no mechanic:P
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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breville
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| posted on January 4th, 2004 at 10:44 AM |
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for what its worth sounds like a couple of problems together
regarding idling ok but not full power
have you checked the fuel filter
sometimes semi clogged can idle ok but when the revs are up it staves the engine
also have yo checked that there isnt a second filter fitted which may have been over looked.
Also check that the coil lead is firmly seated at both ends.
hope you sort it soon
regards
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tonyg
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| posted on January 4th, 2004 at 04:11 PM |
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sounds like the rotor button is stuffed. get a new one, only a few $. Also make sure the carbon brush and spring on the centre pole inside the dizzy
cap is clean and give it a gentle tug so it makes good contact with the rotor when fitted. there should NOT be a hole in the middle of the top of the
rotor.
good luck
they took me away haha, hope the medication works
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physcho
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| posted on January 10th, 2004 at 12:40 PM |
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sorry for the lateness of the reply, have been working 7 days a week, and have had no internet access.
anyhoo, replaced the rotor ($35)
there seems to be no problem with hesitating now (replaced the carby with one i had spare as well)
but it still backfires, it would apper (as the long grey streak on the lawn would testify) that it's only one side (one cylander?) thats
backfiring as it only seems to come out of the right hand exhaust pipe (stock peashooters)
replaced the fuel filter as well (this one is clear so i can see into it - helpfull)
i'm still thinking electrical (have a new set of points and condensor, haven't put them in yet). I am close to taking it to a VW shop but
that would be admitting defeat, and i'm not the sort to do that.
on second thought will whack in the new points&condensor tomorrow. (so very tired right now) and see how that goes, failing that it's to the
VW shop with him later this week.
will let you know the fault when i (or the nice guys(i hope) at the VW mechanics) find out
thanks for the help
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*did*
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| posted on January 11th, 2004 at 12:35 AM |
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$35!!!??? |
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count
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| posted on January 11th, 2004 at 06:56 AM |
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For all I'd know
BUT;
Is the Dizzy loose/ moved?
Ivan in Oz
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You're only Young once,
You can be immature forever.
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 Peter Leonard
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| posted on January 12th, 2004 at 07:33 PM |
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fuel.. or electrical or fuel.. no it's electrical.. fuel?
check for an exhaust leak somewhere on the way from the heads to the muffler... backfiring would be most often heard when backing off down a hill and
letting the motor slow you a bit, otherwise recheck your fuel filters (sometimes there is one hidden right up close to the tank and you have to scooch
right up under the car to see it and its probably LOADED with shite, plus there's one more INSIDE the tank, don't fvck with it too much, but
as a quick test take the fuel line off at the pump end and blow with your mouth with the fuel cap off your tank- you should hear the bubbling and it
should be fairly easy, if not get it started with a hand pump or foot pump- it also loosens the crud a tad  ) and DEFINATELY that your distributor is in the right place and doesn't move (10mm nut should be nice and
tight, but not spanner-breaking tight) set the timing statically, engine COLD. STONE COLD. none of this strobe malarkey. your gold plated limited
edition rotor button should help too. go and spring for a new set of
bosch leads and distributor cap while you're there, it's nice to do for your bug anyway.
let sleeping dubs lie
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on January 12th, 2004 at 07:37 PM |
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oh yeah, and while you're playing around, take off your stock peashooters and give it a rev sans pipes. it'll piss off your neighbours, but
it's fun 
invest in a set of thunderbird quiet pack extractors and j pipes. give yourself another couple of horsepower for fun
let sleeping dubs lie
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Peter Leonard
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| posted on January 12th, 2004 at 08:18 PM |
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postal diarrhoea
check your spark: get some fatly insulated pliers and hold the coil lead with them about 10mm from where it goes into the distributor cap: have
someone crank it for you (a couple of times will do) blue white spark = YAY! dull orange/red= yeeech...but it could also be the connections getting
the juice to the coil so check you're getting 12 volts to the coil +ve with the ignition on (both red lights on, not turning over)
let sleeping dubs lie
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OZ Towdster
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 posted on January 12th, 2004 at 10:04 PM |
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Plugs
No plugs should be tight to remove or replace hot or cold if neversieze or copper coat is used on the thread of the plug every time their replaced
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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