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 extensiblecow
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| posted on January 13th, 2004 at 08:22 PM |
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1961 1300cc Beetle - Oil Leak and 6v conversion
Hi, I know nuts about cars, engines etc.
I'm looking to buy a 1961 1300cc Beetle.
The conditions of the car, at least to the naked eye, seem very well kept. Ie, no obvious rust on any parts of the body (at least to what I can see
w/o getting on all fours), no rust under the carpet, no paint peal / chip.
Thing is, I probably need to fix up a few things:
1) Oil Leaks - the seller confessed that the engine does leak oil. According to her mechanics, it's not serious; he advised her
that she is better off leaving it unfixed as it won't affect her selling price (*very honest statement*), and it'll take a couple of
hundreds to get it fixed. Now, I'm not sure whether, this "fixed" means, it will not be a recurring issue or only a temporary fix.
2) 6v - I have received lots of warnings to stay away from 6v Beetles, coz' the lights will be too dim to drive at night.
- What's the cheapest and quickest way to convert to a 12v (I've read on this site about conversion from 6v to 12v, seems like a lot of
parts and work),
and
- Whether it's "convertible" for a 1961 model ?
3) Rubbers on door panels - Not sure what's the right term to use. The rubber trimmings on the doors seem worned, and the
seller said water will leak when she drives it thru' a car wash.
I'm keen to find out, how much (a rough estimate), to get these fixed ?
I'm based in Sydney. Recently moved here, so I don't know anyone who can help me out !
I'm not a Beetle enthusiast, not quite *yet*... And never owned a Beetle before.
Thanks !
:sandrine
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*did*
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| posted on January 13th, 2004 at 08:32 PM |
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Find out how much oil is leaking out and where from, this should give you an idea about how easy it will be to fix, or whether you can go without
fixing it.
Make sure you check the body thoroughly for rust, ie: bottom of the doors, pillars, under the carpet, etc. When all the trim is in place it really can
be quite decieving.
New door seals are available from your local aircooled vw parts supplier, but as i have never purchased any, i'm not exactly sure on the
price.
Changing from 6v to 12v, you will need to change the generator and starter. I think you would also need to change all the wiring, bulbs, anything
electrical.
Hope this helps |
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extensiblecow
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| posted on January 13th, 2004 at 08:38 PM |
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A few more questions to clarify:
1) how to check how much oil is leaking from engine ? Apart from asking the seller ? The "quantity" she quotes, can be subjective.
2) er.. where's the pillar...
Tks again !
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 Bizarre
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| posted on January 13th, 2004 at 08:42 PM |
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Hi - where in Sydney are you????
Converting to 12 volt is not that hard.
Wiring will fine. 6V uses more current. Power = Volts X Amps
You will need to change genny, wiper motor (or add resistor) starter (or let it spin fast) coil, bulbs, oil switch etc
Oil leaks needs to be checked. Could be a motor out job. If from the front near the gear box could be front seal behind the fly wheel. If from the
push rod tube you can get some screw in ones but if all of them it is a head off job. Could just be rocker covers. Simple.
If everywhere could be blow by and engine rebuild or 2nd hand motor swap.
Door rubbers. If the window weather strip - simpleish job. Just a bitch. $70 in parts a side and several hours. Just make sure the hings aint sagged
and the door is "loose". That can be hard to fix. Hinges are welded/pinned in.
If just the seal around the door - easy
Rust is the killer. Check A pillars and inside the wheel well at the front. Look hard as this is the biggest $$$$ eater
Barry
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Bizarre
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| posted on January 13th, 2004 at 08:47 PM |
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A pillar - front of door
B pillar - back of door
C pillar - back window
Open the front door and on the floor there is a heater vent. This is part of the heater channel. Water collects in there and this is where rust
occurs.
Open the hood and on both sides near the window screen water can leak down there to inside. If the hood isnt sealing properly water gets in there and
runs down into the foot well
How much oil leaking - drive it for say at least 1/2 an hour and park it. Ifit leaves more than a couple of drops it is too much. Need to look
"where" it is dripping from. Might just be a loose drain nut or gasket around the stariner plate.
By the way - a 61 has a 1200 not a 1300 motor
Barry
Futue te ipsum!!!
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*did*
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| posted on January 13th, 2004 at 08:48 PM |
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Has the car been parked in the same spot for a while? Move it and check how much oil is on the ground. If you can, bend down and have a look under the
engine, are there drips coming off it? Is it dripping at this very moment in time or is it a slow leak? Where is the oil coming from, around the oil
strainer (round plate in the base of the casing), from the heads or from between the casing and the cylinders? These are the things you want to
know.
This website should give you some ideas about how the engine is made up.
here
The pillars are the things that the door hinges, and striker (lock mechanism), connect on to. |
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extensiblecow
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| posted on January 13th, 2004 at 08:51 PM |
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Tks Barry.
I have not idea about most of the things you mentioned but will try and
learn and cope with it.
Now that I have read thru' all yooz replies, I must admit, I haven't really "checked" the Beetle that well. I did a turn-up of
the carpet and since it looked fine, I didn't bother stripping it up - coz' it seemed to be glued.
Didn't check under the door too
I try to get the NRMA booking, but they can only make it this Friday, and I don't want to commit a deposit first, until I know for sure, I'm
happy with it, and getting a professional check, will be a final "peace of my mind".
Also, how much, say based on all the fixes suggested on yooz replies, a range will do ? Will that cost me say, more than $500 ?
I'm in Gladeville.
Does anyone know of any VW inspector in Sydney, who can make a private inspection call ? The NRMA charges slightly over $200 for a job done.
:cry
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Bizarre
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| posted on January 13th, 2004 at 08:56 PM |
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I am just round the corner and over the bridge in Drummoyne.
Give us a call tomorrow at work if you like on 9714 2123. It is a direct line, and i can have a chat with you
Barry
Futue te ipsum!!!
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extensiblecow
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| posted on January 13th, 2004 at 08:58 PM |
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Hi *did*
The seller was kind enough to meet me somewhere central. I haven't a car to look for a car - and Sydney's new to me, so I depend very much
on the buses.
We didn't really park the car for "long". And I didn't really look under the engine. When I open the cover where the engine is,
the entire area seemed to be filled with "carbon" or whatever that's called.
After reading all yooz replies and suggestions, I seriously think I should get it checked by a professional.
Oh, also, when I test drove the Beetle, the engine seem to "rattle" a bit. The seller said it's been there since the first day she got
the engine. (she got the shell, and rebuilt everything, including the engine, seats, paints etc).
Not sure if that's a bad sign...
:cry
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on January 13th, 2004 at 08:58 PM |
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6v to 12v with someone else doing it will be about$800/ $900 ! add that to the cost of the VW before you buy:thumb
all prices approx below:bounce
generator new= $250
generator stand= $20
12v pulleys and backing plates=$20
regulator=$60
12v battery= $80
Light bulbs= $20
Windscreen wiper motor $50
5 hrs labour @ $65-$75 = $325
As long as it is not the old 36hp motor, and really is a 1300 .
A rattle in the motor, oil leaks????? now that's a tin of worms:o think long and hard my friend
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extensiblecow
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| posted on January 13th, 2004 at 09:01 PM |
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Tks for the latest price estimates of 6v to 12v conversion - that's quite a lot of money !
If the engine needs work done...
Geez...
This is the 6th Beetle I've seen, and this is the best condition inside out, to be honest, at least, to what a layman like me can tell... *or
can't tell*
I will call Barry tomorrow.
Thanks everyone, for your comments - I'm very grateful :kiss
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*did*
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| posted on January 13th, 2004 at 09:03 PM |
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Mmm, smoke in the air when you opened the decklid, not good.... but could be attributed to the leaking oil smoking on the exhaust.
It would be a good idea to get it checked out. Get out the yellow pages and call up some local vw mechanics, i'm sure they will inspect it for
you.
Good luck |
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extensiblecow
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| posted on January 13th, 2004 at 09:06 PM |
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I look at the exhaust when I got the seller to step on the pedal, no black smoke - smoke's clear.
I noticed the heater thingy - seller said it's not working. But I didn't check inside, didn't know about the water running there and
rust issue
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on January 24th, 2004 at 10:58 PM |
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so did you buy it or not ?
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Dannyboy
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| posted on January 28th, 2004 at 08:18 PM |
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finding your beetle
Hang on for the one you want , no comprimises!! Look at as many you can nd listen to the words of those that know on the forum. Believe me it will be
worth the wait and you'll learn alot about the car you want. There are sooooo many beetles flying around , why not go to some shows , contact
clubs etc. that way you know your buying it off someone that cares about their car and not selling you a car full of bog! I got exactly wanted what i
wanted but it took me 4 months . When i look at what i nearly bought i gringe! Good luck
Good luck |
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extensiblecow
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| posted on January 28th, 2004 at 09:19 PM |
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Tks for all your support and concern  .
I'm still keeping my options open. I know cars at this age, won't be "perfect", but I believe, there will be one that I will
totally feel comfortable with.
The thing is, there aren't many around in Sydney. Only one out of 6 I've seen, seem presentable. The rest, are in very sad state. I
really feel for the cars.
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lugnuts
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| posted on January 29th, 2004 at 03:10 AM |
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Chin up dude,keep lookin,i went through about 6 or 7 daily driver,rust buckets,cal-look,1/2 finished weekend PROJECT basket cases before i found THE
LUGGED ONE,one owner body off respray and detailed underneath,motor was beautiful but clapped and mechanicals were fair,$6000 and i was wrapped,still
am. |
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