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 Rota_Motor
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| posted on January 14th, 2004 at 11:32 PM |
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head and carb questions, SP to TP and type3 into type1
editing the whole post because i dont seem to be getting any answers 
secondhand twinport heads - are there different types, ID numbers etc. and what do I check for when looking at them.
can the swap to TP heads be done in the car, or do I need to pull the motor to do it? (I understand I will simply be unbolting the old heads and
bolting the new ones on, no gaskets etc. on a beetle and then adjusting valves when its back together, any help on changing heads would be great)
type3 twin carbs - do they physically fit into a type 1 engine bay, using standard linkages etc. tuning is not really an issue.
heads, tin, manifold <- thats all I will need to convert to TP heads?
any helpful comments would be great, but if not, I will go for trial end error until I figure VW's out.
PS all these mods are to try and get the engine breathing a bit better, it has alot of lowdown, but runs out of breath at higher RPM |
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OZ Towdster
A.k.a.: Andrew Westwood
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 posted on January 15th, 2004 at 10:39 AM |
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Check the heads carefully for cracks around the valves and plug holes in the combustion chamber if cracked leave them thier.Type 3 twin carby setup
leave alone also ,thier is easier ways with less headaches to have better induction,in saying this you would be better of sticking with the single
solex to you find out what is done to the motor.
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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Rota_Motor
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| posted on January 15th, 2004 at 12:05 PM |
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thanks for the advice, so its just the condition for cracks etc, not different types of heads?
as for what done to the motor? not sure, but we had it out and about yesterday on a permit, and at idle, it is a little grumpy, best comparison I can
think of is a large extend port rotary, with a smooth but regular camming over, and off the line, it is a rocket, but really strangles at higher
revs.
in short, its definitely not standard, but runs out lof breath, hence I am investigating twinport heads and twin carbs. I guess it means I get an
adapter plate and throw a 32/36 weber on top for now.
so many type 3 setups there  umm what exactly is so bad about them?
added bit: looks like TP heads, along with the single carb manifold to suit, and while they are off, measure up bore and stroke to see what we have. |
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empi
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| posted on January 15th, 2004 at 10:21 PM |
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I did the type 3 carb thang on to a beetle motor . pretty easy.
ad
"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you." - Anonymous  |
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Rota_Motor
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| posted on January 16th, 2004 at 12:35 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by empi
I did the type 3 carb thang on to a beetle motor . pretty easy.
ad
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so all the astandard linkages and stuff all fit into a beetle no dramas??
setting them up to run even isnt a hassle, I'm a mechanic so I can adjust stuff ok, just not worth buying if they dont fit.
too lazy to measure up properly, especially when I have such a bountiful source of wisdom here. |
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Rota_Motor
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| posted on January 18th, 2004 at 01:32 PM |
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bump bump bump.
completely reworded the original post, figured it would be a little more friendly than starting another new thread. |
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Rota_Motor
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| posted on January 19th, 2004 at 12:34 PM |
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bump.
come on these arent hard questions are they?
but I really would like an answer, especially on the heads, are there different types that need to be matched.
PLEASE |
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 Bizarre
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| posted on January 19th, 2004 at 12:47 PM |
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secondhand twinport heads - are there different types, ID numbers etc. and what do I check for when looking at them. - should be the same. Check for
cracks. Should measure volume as this will affect comp ratio.
can the swap to TP heads be done in the car, or do I need to pull the motor to do it? (- Pull the motor. Getting the exhaust off #1 and 3 would be a
head f#$k in car.
I "thought" head studs were different lenghts though??? I "thgought" dp studs were longer.
type3 twin carbs - do they physically fit into a type 1 engine bay, using standard linkages etc. tuning is not really an issue. - shough fit but i
think the linkage will clash with the generator/alternator. T3 are really low. Batter measure and check this. Empi - what did you do here???
heads, tin, manifold <- thats all I will need to convert to TP heads? - check studs as stated b4
Barry
Futue te ipsum!!!
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lulu94
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| posted on January 19th, 2004 at 05:21 PM |
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muahahaha I stole her ID.
anyways, if the exhaust is the main issue with head swapping in the car, shouldnt be too hard as we have J-pipes on it, I was more worried about room
to pull the heads off
where are the ID numbers on the heads?
if the studs are different, I will just grab them with the heads complete 
I have already U2U'd empi, he said he modified the type 3 linkages to work in the type 1.,
now thats the type of response I was looking for, single handedly saved our lives well a little money at least.
1968 pearl white beetle:kiss
1600 engine
soon to be supercharged 
1970 and 72 Squarebacks 70 soon to be rotor powered |
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graham
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| posted on January 19th, 2004 at 11:52 PM |
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your better of running type 4 carbs than type 3 as the type 3 linkage runs in between the fan shroud and the firewall and unless your a magicin with
very small hands you will get very frustrated very quickly. Personally I would stick to the stock carb unless your going to do a bit off work to the
motor.
graham
extreme dubber
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Rota_Motor
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| posted on January 20th, 2004 at 02:09 PM |
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thanks for some decent info guys,
well like I said, the motor seems to have a little bit of work done to it already, which is why I want to upgrade the carb, and heads.
and the type 3 looked like a nice idea, as its sitting in the wreckers, can pick the best parts of about 3 or 4 sets, and it will cost under $100 for
manifolds, carbs and linkages
BTW empi says he reversed the type 3 linkages into a type 1, so maybe that put them in front of the fan shroud?
anyways keep the info coming people, learning a fair bit. |
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lugnuts
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| posted on January 20th, 2004 at 04:15 PM |
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The serial numbers for the heads are under the valve gear covered in crud.:P |
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70AutoStik
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| posted on January 20th, 2004 at 08:57 PM |
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You'll need 4 short studs to suit the dual-port heads.
If you can get the heads off without pulling the engine you're a better man than I am (they'll hit the sides of the engine bay before they
clear the studs - don't ask how I know this... &^%$#)
I fitted type 3 carbs behind the shroud on a 1 many years ago and I don't remember it being that difficult - I seem to recall I simply swapped
the carbs side-to side, I think I drilled a new hole in the shroud for the cable tube, too.
The exhaust fits up exactly the same.
P.S. I have a pair of virtually new type 3 carbs, with manifolds and linkage, for a good price if you need 'em.
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Rota_Motor
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| posted on January 21st, 2004 at 12:54 AM |
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70 autostik is the man
so its just the 2 short studs each side I will need?
and thats what I needed to know, they hit the sides of the engine bay I
will pull the motor... actually I think we decided to anyways.
I will have to measure up the type 3 carbs, or at least have a really good look to see if I can make it work before committing. so, you have a set of
type 3 carbs in good condition?? how much you looking for for the lot??
and thats good about the exhausts, while the engine is out, we way even fit a pair of heater boxes so we can setup the heater again (Danielle works
nights, so the heater would be good esp. in winter)
thanks again for all the input, dont be scared to help me out. |
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