| [ Total Views: 782 | Total Replies: 9 | Thread Id: 19748 ] |
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 Rota_Motor
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| posted on March 2nd, 2004 at 07:41 PM |
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help with fitting new exhaust! preheat pipe
hi people, finally we have Danielles beetle in a yard we can work on it, and first thing was remove the old very leaky exhaust system.
problem 1, the new genie extractors had no J pipes, and the old pipes had the round clamp joint on them, that was solved easily when we realised the
old bits slide off 
anyways, it now all seems to fit over the J pipes, and goes up flat against the heads but again we have a problem.
do the original fixings for the manifold preheat pipe onto the exhaust use bolts with nuts, or the bolts just screw directly into the manifold
flange?
I need to know what thread is into the manifold, because if I cant find one to match, I will just have to recut all 4 and go with a set of bolts from
my mazda bits :P |
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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 posted on March 2nd, 2004 at 08:56 PM |
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pre heater pipe.... UUURRRGGG
I'm not sure whether they are fine or coarse Metric.. I usually drill them out & use a bolt & nut.. as they usually don't line up
too well.... Its easier to use a long bolt , do it up then put a small bolt & nut in the other hole, then take the long bolt out & put a small
one back in...
I hope that makes sense...
I'm sure I'm not the only one who has trouble with pre-heater pipes...
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Rota_Motor
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 posted on March 3rd, 2004 at 05:14 PM |
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oh no's
ahh thanks, not what I wanted to hear, and just had a quick look, no way is there enough room for me to use a bolt and nut. the ends are cast pieces
which are way too thick to use a nut on the back of, at least for the inside bolts 
I did notice that they dont line up particularly well too when I dummy fitted them.
it looks like a trip to universal fasteners to get some coarse thread 6mm metric bolts is in order. I tried some 'normal' fine thread metric
bolts I stole from my mazda, and they binded up or like I said, other
option is to retap the threads to the fine metric thread and hope there is enough meat to hold |
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*did*
A.k.a.: Steve
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| posted on March 3rd, 2004 at 09:23 PM |
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Have you tried some off a bug at the wreckers? |
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Rota_Motor
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| posted on March 3rd, 2004 at 09:27 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by *did*
Have you tried some off a bug at the wreckers?
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umm... no
didnt even think of that, exhaust came with the car, and this was an unexpected problem.
but I was planning on taking the extractors to work tomorrow and having a look at the beetle being restored there  |
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Rota_Motor
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| posted on March 6th, 2004 at 06:21 PM |
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tried other bugs at the wreckers, only one still had preheater pipes, and I got the bolts from that, and still fukn wrong.
I dont know if its old germans didnt know what they were up to and used odd threads, or stupid genie headers decided to use some kinda dodgy imperial
thread, cos after all they are australian and aussie cars use aussie threads.
eaither way, this car is taking a shitkload longer to put the exhaust on than it should.  |
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duncombemu
A.k.a.: Mark Atkins
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 posted on March 6th, 2004 at 08:45 PM |
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These bolts are 6 X 1.0 X 20.
Don't forget to smear some molycoat or coppercoat heatproof grease on the threads, before you tighten up the bolts. It just makes it easier to
undo anything associated with an exhaust system, down the track.
Regards,
Mark:thumb
Don't ever let anyone tell you, "It can't be done."
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lulu94
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| posted on March 6th, 2004 at 08:50 PM |
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Ryan here,
thanks for the info, I'm hoping that it is the correct thread on the aftermarket pipes :o
not going to be very happy if its not.
as you can see I was getting a little stressed, and thats even with me being in the trade
1968 pearl white beetle:kiss
1600 engine
soon to be supercharged 
1970 and 72 Squarebacks 70 soon to be rotor powered |
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 vw54
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Always Waiting 4 Friday
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| posted on March 6th, 2004 at 09:14 PM |
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yeah great idea to use moly coat or copper coat, Fit all the nuts and bolts loose before you start to tighten any on of them. Makes it easier to
push and shove around a bit to align things
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on March 6th, 2004 at 09:32 PM |
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RotaMota ,
Well My Muffler sounds similar to what You have, with a caste piece on the LH side and the pipe on the RHS. I had trouble with both, so I ended up
using short very coarse threaded roofing bolts without the rubber seal.. naturally... I had to cut the bottom off them to stop them bottoming out.
Lee Noonan
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Rota_Motor
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| posted on March 8th, 2004 at 05:25 PM |
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stupid aftermarket
thanks guys, but I found the problem, was wondering why standard Metric 6 mm x 1 threads werent working, they seemed to be ok but would bind up after
a couple of turns.
it turns out that the dodgy makers of the headers didnt tap the holes properly, and after giving it a quick run through with a tap, it then all bolted
straight up, with very little aligning needed.
sorry I cursed VW's, please forgive me. |
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
Aircooled Master
Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138% - YIKES --
Posts: 11654
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| posted on March 8th, 2004 at 08:48 PM |
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Maybe mine were the same... didn't really look that close... I just used those roofing hex head metal coarse threaded bolts... If they
come loose with the heat I guess I will tap out the holes...
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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