| [ Total Views: 621 | Total Replies: 21 | Thread Id: 23224 ] |
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 $2.63 homebrand baja
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| posted on May 20th, 2004 at 06:09 PM |
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Aaarrggh help: axle nut not budging...
Ok (63 swing axle, std drum brakes..)prob is, both handbrake cables snapped, now trying to crack the 36mm nuts... I think the mechanics used
pneumatic(sorry if wrong word! air tools?lol).. drill to (over?) tighten nuts (not rusted only done a few months ago... I cannot budge them with cheat
bar, etc).... any handy hints or will I head down to nearest mechanics in morning(14 odd k's away) and get them to crack them,, then scurry out back
and fit cables there?lol.
Annoying thing is it's been a day of frustration, for something which should only take a few mins......
has anyone managed to replace cables without taking drum off? (was getting desperate this evening, began eying off the little brake adjustment
holes.....  mmm thin screwdriver......keyhole surgery.....I am sure I
could do it.....)
best handy hint wins a free broken brake cable?????lol:P |
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Andy42
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| posted on May 20th, 2004 at 06:24 PM |
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Long piece of pipe on a set of stilsens ( that is realy not how you spell that I am sure) seems to work ok but now I have the rattle gun to do them
.
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nicko
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| posted on May 20th, 2004 at 06:42 PM |
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I used a big bit of pipe over the breaker bar which gave me about 7 foot of leverage. I think the left hand side is left hand thread, I know it is on
the front of a spiltty and I havnt touched the left hand rear yet. The nuts are torqued up to 200 plus pounds so it does take a lot of effort to get
it going
Nicko
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Desert Moose
A.k.a.: Chris Hill
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| posted on May 20th, 2004 at 07:05 PM |
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That all good but to make it easy get a big hammer........
I'm not kidding. Get your cheat bar put pressure on it and tap the nut. The jar will losen it. If that dosn't work hit it harder. make sure you do
them up the right torque when your done....
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$2.63 homebrand baja
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| posted on May 20th, 2004 at 07:06 PM |
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thanks for the suggestions!
:cry I want a "rattle gun" too-oo! I think the nuts need a really forceful jolt to crack them.
mmmm forgot all about the steilsons (or watever they are called) have 2 in my kit lol........ gunna get it in end, I am not going to let a stupid nut
defeat me!
did pipe thing ( snapped 2 tools today too)!
am now doing all the work things i was sposed to do today.... waiting for mechanics to open tomorrow........ will chuck cables and jack in car and do
some roadside repairs! (I think the locals are growing used to seeing me stopped on side of road fixing things!lol)
(I got the two off the spare bug .. getting to cables .. used angle grinder and big chisel :thumb but can't use that method on this one...)....
dodgey? who u callin dodgey.....:P |
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$2.63 homebrand baja
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| posted on May 20th, 2004 at 07:10 PM |
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ohh, will give all the above suggestions,, just... one.. more.. go......... then admit defeat and ask to use some pro tools! |
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OZ Towdster
A.k.a.: Andrew Westwood
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| posted on May 20th, 2004 at 07:15 PM |
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Heather your a dead set LEGEND when it comes to bodge it up i'mm sure you can do it again.
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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Desert Moose
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| posted on May 20th, 2004 at 07:20 PM |
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The axle nuts needs to be that tight or it will come loose I think that its 220ftb for 36mm axle nuts. but I do mine at 240ftb
I hope it works for you
Regard's
Chris
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OZ Towdster
A.k.a.: Andrew Westwood
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| posted on May 20th, 2004 at 07:26 PM |
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Chris you actually!!!!! measure the torque not just f#%(ing tight.I'd like to see that.
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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Desert Moose
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| posted on May 20th, 2004 at 07:44 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by A Westwood
Chris you actually!!!!! measure the torque not just f#%(ing tight.I'd like to see that.
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Yeh I do, I have a 3/4 torque wrench and a torque multiplyer.
:P
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Desert Moose
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| posted on May 20th, 2004 at 07:46 PM |
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But fu#*ing tight, tight will do. lol
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MikeM
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| posted on May 21st, 2004 at 08:33 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by A Westwood
Chris you actually!!!!! measure the torque not just f#%(ing tight.I'd like to see that.
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Guess what Andrew. I do.
I have a 2x Torque multiplier and a 200ft/lbs selectable clicking torque wrench. So I set the torque wrench to 120 and do up the nut. Easy. If you
have the right equipment why not do it right? If I didn't have the right equipment dad would buy it or make it anyway.
ps. Dad made the 2x torque multiplier so we could do this very task 
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BJ
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| posted on May 21st, 2004 at 09:33 AM |
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If you can"t budge bring it to Gatton and drop out to vanderfields Market Drive, ask for BJ and I will assist you. If not give me a call at work
5462 2566 and I may be able to come on help you tonite if you wish.
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ratty 63
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| posted on May 21st, 2004 at 10:55 AM |
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...hmmm, rattle gun makes it all easy - even removes nuts from axels when box is out of the car! I used to remove them with a breaker bar and a long
piece of pipe, broke a number of breaker bars doing it this way!
Rattle gun is the best way to get the axle nuts off - and they are not all that expensive - but you need an air compressor to run mine, and that is
the expensive bit! (but it's oh so useful!)
As for replacing the handbrake cables without removing the drum....with the aid of your angle grinder you could remove large chunks of the backing
plate and then.... nah, just joking! The only way is to remove the drum.
Good luck,
R
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Baja Wes
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| posted on May 21st, 2004 at 02:45 PM |
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that's the advantage of type 3 4-stud drums, the drum is seperate to the hub, so you don't have to remove the 36mm nut to change the handbrake
cables.
Oh, and both rear nuts are right-hand thread. Left hand thread is only on the front wheel.
I find a rattle gun works well, but a torque multiplier is the best. Both of which you don't have...
I once had a piece of RHS with holes drilled to take two wheel studs. I used this to bolt to the drum so you can hold the drum still.
Then I used a breaker bar with a cheater pipe to undo the nut. Sometimes if you were lucky a 1/2" breaker bar would work, but I did break one so
stopped doing that (thank god for Repco's replacement policy). I then moved on to a 3/4" breaker bar, before moving on to rattle guns and torque
multipliers.
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Grey 57
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| posted on May 21st, 2004 at 04:51 PM |
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If all else fails get a suitable cold chisel and place the point down between the castelations on the nut (were the split pin goes) and split the nut.
Make sure you dont damage the thread on the axle. Make sure the wheel is on the ground too. Wear eye and hand protection.
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$2.63 homebrand baja
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| posted on May 21st, 2004 at 08:29 PM |
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:thumb the handy hint winners are... steilsens (or watever they are called... was def on tight bent handles on both of mine!!!!).... bar and big
hammer! ohhh and a bicycle wheel ... opps I mean std bug wheel......lol......
u2u me 4 collecton of broken cable prize!!
worked out have to find the sweet spot pressure wise then bash the crap out of knobbly bit on steilson (or watever dey called)......
no mechanic required,, have brokend every nail..bruised hand (when hammerhead flew off!!!lol)..bu-ut I now have handbrakes again...
ahh u peeps wif the right tools and exotic drums.....go jump!
Thanx 4 tips, I know wat to put in my eventual bigbaja.....( not wot
I have now!)lol.....
on downside,, I knew if I opened up back end I would see wat I paid big $$ to not to have done....... but thats next weeks drama's...... :cussing
mmmmm I smell so-oo manly now! :thumb... and yes took it 4 drive... the wheles did not fall off!!!!! |
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Tazz
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| posted on May 22nd, 2004 at 03:23 AM |
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You comming to meeting Next week $2?
You need help again..... let me know..
Tazz
1962 Type3 Squareback
1967 Type3 Fastback "Kermit"
The truth is important. It will set you free
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68AutoBug
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| posted on May 22nd, 2004 at 10:05 AM |
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I broke two 1/2 " breaker bars undoing mine...
Many books just say to use 5 foot of pipe on the end of a breaker bar to do & undo....
3/4 drive is preferable.....
Problem is that when using stillsons or a large shifter is that they put pressure on the nut where the slits are, so they are actually pushing the nut
into the thread...
Can AntiSeize be used on these nuts??
they can't come off, one because of the torque used,
two because of the split pin...
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Desert Moose
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| posted on May 23rd, 2004 at 02:08 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by $2.63 homebrand baja
no mechanic required,, have brokend every nail..bruised hand (when hammerhead flew off!!!lol)..bu-ut I now have handbrakes again...
mmmmm I smell so-oo manly now! :thumb... and yes took it 4 drive... the wheles did not fall off!!!!!
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Ummm I'm lookin' for a new pit crew LOL :thumb
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Desert Moose
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| posted on May 23rd, 2004 at 02:14 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 68AutoBug
Can AntiSeize be used on these nuts??
they can't come off, one because of the torque used,
two because of the split pin...
Lee
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I don't know but I use it and had no prob's (that copper one) I also use R clips instead of splitpins. But thats me...
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type_one
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| posted on May 24th, 2004 at 12:41 PM |
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Mate the easiest way to get these buggers of is to invest in a solid 3/4 inch drive. i.e. not a rachet. Put your 36mm socket on the end and then
leverage leverage leverage. It will undo anything. I have this set up with a ten foot pool. Put it on jump up and down on the end and off she
comes.
Leverage is good for most stubborn screws as well. Put your screw driver on the screw then find a socket that fits the end of your screw driver. One
normally always does then apply your socket apply pressure to the screw driver and turn. The leverage will normally mean more control and about five
times more power than turning the screw driver with your hands.
But too late now as you have it off. :thumb |
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lexm
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| posted on May 24th, 2004 at 12:52 PM |
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The usual problem is 250 ft lb + some rust.
Thread should be lubricated when torqueing it up.
Use permatex no3 and it wont rust on.
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$2.63 homebrand baja
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| posted on May 24th, 2004 at 07:44 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by lexm
The usual problem is 250 ft lb + some rust.
Thread should be lubricated when torqueing it up.
Use permatex no3 and it wont rust on.
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:P now u tell me.lol. permatex no3? cool. knowing my festybug.. will prob b taking them off again soon to fix something or other! :beer |
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