| [ Total Views: 1413 | Total Replies: 30 | Thread Id: 46688 ] |
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 byronbus
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| posted on December 5th, 2005 at 09:22 PM |
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Engine running hot, very hot...need help?
Anyone got some suggestions as to why my engine is running hot?
Im sure its timing, but ive checked and re checked and re checked the timing...what am i doing wrong???
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crewcabconnection
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| posted on December 5th, 2005 at 09:36 PM |
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Probably because you drive way too fast. Put a raw egg in the radiator. That will fix it.
Loves a lolcat
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oval TOFU
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on December 5th, 2005 at 10:07 PM |
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What are you driving? Are you drivng the t!ts off it? Nothing's blocking the fan intake?
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
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byronbus
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| posted on December 5th, 2005 at 10:12 PM |
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Its a split, singlecab ute, not driving hard at all, heats up hot around the block...something is wrong, but cant figure it out...
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oval TOFU
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on December 5th, 2005 at 10:14 PM |
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rear tinware is leaking really bad? Fan's sucking hot air? Air off cooling fins is obstructed?
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
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byronbus
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| posted on December 5th, 2005 at 10:17 PM |
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Its all there...had disiy problems, and im worried about an issue with the timing...there seems to be a lot of play/movement between the pully and the
rotor moving...
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oval TOFU
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on December 5th, 2005 at 10:21 PM |
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i'm outta ideas, though a loose dizzy shaft aint good news... good luck man
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
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byronbus
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| posted on December 5th, 2005 at 10:22 PM |
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no worries, looks like she's gotta come out again...
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matara
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| posted on December 5th, 2005 at 10:32 PM |
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Bruce
You could have a sticking oil pressure relief, or lack of oil pressure, blocked oil cooler, slipping fan belt etc etc
Is it pinging? That would indicate a timing problem. Try swapping the dizzy for another one.
Cheers
Steve
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DIY-DUB
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| posted on December 5th, 2005 at 10:38 PM |
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could be excessive buildup of gunk thruought your eigne where the air is meant to be forced thru, i had ALOT of crud on mine, figure thats gotta make
a difference
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lugnuts
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| posted on December 6th, 2005 at 03:30 AM |
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did u set the timing with a strobe for max advance |
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byronbus
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| posted on December 6th, 2005 at 08:28 AM |
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No gunk, only installed it last week, belt is fine, had 3 dizzys on it...will look at oil pressure...its not pinging...
Should it be set at max advance?
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Brad
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| posted on December 6th, 2005 at 08:35 AM |
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check that your advance in the dizy is working
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lugnuts
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| posted on December 7th, 2005 at 01:54 AM |
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So what dissys have u got,if u have a 009 set it at max advance 28-30 and let the idle fall wherever,luck dude. |
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tonyktm
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| posted on December 7th, 2005 at 02:07 AM |
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check that the fan hub is not floged out and thus not turning adequatly, also check that the deflector plates are there from underneath between the
cylinders
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vwrallycar
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| posted on December 7th, 2005 at 09:58 PM |
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when u say hot, how hot?
do u have a temp guage, if so whats it read and at what speed?
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modulus
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| posted on December 7th, 2005 at 11:14 PM |
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Hi bb,
When I read "...only installed it last week..." does this mean that it is a newly reconditioned engine that you have installed? (fresh engines run
hottish anyway, hotter still when clearances have not been set correctly).
Also, as vwrallycar said, how hot? Can you hold the oil dipstick without needing medical attention? (if so, then it's not *really* hot)
hth
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byronbus
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| posted on December 8th, 2005 at 07:30 AM |
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Just a 2nd hand one, too hot, cant hold the dip stick...
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modulus
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| posted on December 8th, 2005 at 03:27 PM |
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OK, then the oil is getting *quite* hot.
I'd suggest the next relatively inexpensive step is to check the ignition timing with a timing light; this will show your true total advance, but
will also demonstrate if there are any problems caused by wear/inconsistency in your spark timing, e.g. worn distributor parts can cause your timing
to 'flutter' and this is quite visible with a timing light. If all is well, check and set your tappets (dead cold, next morning) to 0.006"; this is
not likely to be causing overheating but it might reveal a problem with a particular cylinder.
If all is OK, you need to ensure that your cooling system is 100% (including well-fitting tin-ware etc.) and then you are left with the less likely
culprits, such as incorrect clearances when the engine was assembled. If you get this far down in the list without solving it, run a compression test
before pulling the engine as a further guide to where to look.
All the suggestions made above are valid, but you need a structred way to tackle the problem and timing is one of the major contributors to
overheating. A weak mixture can contribute, but by the time an overly-weak mixture is presenting the symptoms you're describing, the engine will
hardly be running.
hth
[ Edited on 8-12-05 by modulus ]
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MUD BASHING ANYONE ??
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| posted on December 9th, 2005 at 10:11 PM |
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check for a vacum leak and a good seal around the oil cooler
You only need two tools
Wd40 if it don't move and it should
Duct tape if it move's and it shouldn't
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Warrenm
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| posted on December 10th, 2005 at 06:59 PM |
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Did it get hot all of a sudden and has it run normally before? Have you changed oil and filter.
+ all the above advice.
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Herbie
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| posted on December 10th, 2005 at 09:35 PM |
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I'd be thinking perhaps the fan is not rotating properly could it be possible that the belt end is moving but the fan end is loose or slipping?
I believe they are fairly fool proof setups but its an odd symptom perhaps its a simple but rare issue.
it would be easy to assume the fan was pumping air but perhaps it is not.
Good luck with it Bruce.
God Bless
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byronbus
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| posted on December 11th, 2005 at 08:10 AM |
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haha, god bless, haha...
Maybe its the coil?
Would a dodgy coil keep causing the points to be cactus? Or kill the condensor
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tassupervee
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| posted on December 11th, 2005 at 10:45 AM |
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Still dont know how hot "too hot" is??
What does the oil temp guage say?
Too hot to hold the dipstick is just not enough.
Whats the actual oil temp in degrees then you can work from there
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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byronbus
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| posted on December 11th, 2005 at 02:09 PM |
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Too hot to hold the dipstick for sometime after the motor has stopped...too hot to put hand on engine lid...
Doesnt have a temp guage yet, original 62 singlecab, just pulled off a farm and got running...
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Anthiron
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| posted on December 11th, 2005 at 02:18 PM |
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can u feel air rushing out of holes in tinware for sparkplugs or underneath to check is fan is working properly
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kombibob
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| posted on December 11th, 2005 at 05:10 PM |
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i had the same prob with a 1600 not so long ago in my bug.
the motor was fine in every way ran sweet as but after 20 min driving it was cooking ! changed the oil preasure valve,disy,cheaked for leaks,there
was no gaps in the tinware,timing was fine ,even changed it to a dog house cooler and shroud but nothing worked. in the end i gave up and changed it
to a old worn motor that runs cool:alien
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Kombi_Rescue
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| posted on December 11th, 2005 at 06:03 PM |
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bruce what engine is it? size? code?...is the exhaust std ?does it drive normally or do you suspect it being underpwered?buy a thermo gun and check
the temp at various points on the engine...case ,intake and exhaust ports cyl heads etc.....a badly line bored engine will increase heat buikld up and
retention......check the colour of the spark plugs..are you comparing this engine to the 65 high topper /????? you had two cool engines and sold
them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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byronbus
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| posted on December 11th, 2005 at 08:09 PM |
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Haha, its a 1600, exhaust is standard, it is underpowered...sparkplugs are fine...
Nothing compares to the 65...
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byronbus
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| posted on December 11th, 2005 at 08:11 PM |
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Basically you need to build me a 1776 like the last one, my quest in life is to have every split out there powered by a kombi rescue 1776...
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