| [ Total Views: 1074 | Total Replies: 7 | Thread Id: 73686 ] |
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 ian.mezz
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 posted on December 29th, 2008 at 04:09 PM |
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intake temps, ej20t
looks like i will be ok
http://www.scoobyclinic.com/download/JapanesePerformanceIntercoolertest.pdf
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VWCOOL
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| posted on December 29th, 2008 at 06:29 PM |
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yep, at anything less that WOT at or beyond the point of max torque any discussion about boost or inlet temps is usually a hand-in-crutch exercise...
Pay your debts, CxxT
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1303Steve
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| posted on December 29th, 2008 at 10:41 PM |
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Hi Ian
I saw on another post that you were getting 48 deg intake temps on 34 deg day, was that on boost? Are you going to fit the water 2 air unit?
Steve
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ian.mezz
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| posted on December 29th, 2008 at 11:05 PM |
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not sure i was doing 115Ks down the HWY in third gear for about 5Ks its a bit hard to lkeep boost on to long on the strret and today it was a bit
cooler and only got upto 44deg same test, if you lookd up intercoolers its about getting more boost, not temps cause as temps rise boost drops, so
bigger coolers must be better I did find one post that said temps
could go from 40deg to as high as 110deg , My check is far better then that link I posted as when they did their test it was only a 9deg day
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on December 29th, 2008 at 11:51 PM |
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Hi Ian
I fitted an inlet temp gauge into my old 1302, it was from Jaycar and was battery operated. Part number CAT. NO. XC0224, that way you can keep an eye
on the temps all the time
Steve
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boof2332
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| posted on January 1st, 2009 at 08:13 PM |
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I have a temp sensor with the microtech.
At eastern creek with my air to air being fed from the scoops in the guards, I had 34 degree intake temps on a 32 degree day. With the water spray on
they dropped to about 25. That is with 18pounds of boost!!!
They do not get as hot as in a subaru for a couple of reasons...firstly airflow over the gearbox and under the cooler reduces heak soak and helps draw
the air through.
The car is 2 wheel drive and alot lighter so the load is signficantly less and thus the exhaust , turbo and intake temps are not subjected to the
intense heat engines under load produce.
Short shifting on a cold morning in winter, so I didnt generate any real heat in the turbo, on the M2 at 5am I had minus air intake temps.
Matt
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ricola
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| posted on January 2nd, 2009 at 06:08 AM |
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Matt,
Do you have any pics of your set-up? From what you have said as well as Jak's good experiences with ducting his intake from one side I'm fairly sure
that is the way I will go... Just need to figure out how I'm going to do it to look nice and subtle.
Cheers, Rich
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1303
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| posted on January 6th, 2009 at 08:16 PM |
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Hi ian,
Unsure of your set up, but any aftermarket ECU worths its weight, should have not only water, but air temperature compensation.
With this you can back of the timing & add more fuel as the intake temps climb to help fail safe any heat damage. I have mine set to start
knocking off advance & adding fuel from about 60 degs on the air setting and 105 on the water settings. (Pretty sure the standard ECU would have a
degree of fail safe built into aswell)That way you can be fairly confident to just keep driving the thing knowing that even if the temps do get high
you are not doing any damage. Of course if the temps are of the scale(which is not really going to happen on a street car anyway) no amount of
retardation & extra fuel with save it!
Cheers
Paul
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