| [ Total Views: 3853 | Total Replies: 20 | Thread Id: 77454 ] |
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 dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on June 28th, 2009 at 05:55 AM |
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"Bore For 94's"
Here are some pics of how I do it.
Some people just bore the hole for the barrel
right down to the bottom... with a sharp tool.
If it does not break through behind #3
it will most likely crack (from the sharp corner) at some point soon.
Some people do not "deck" the barrel face either.
My first step is to spot face the case savers
so they will not lift the barrel at all, when the head nuts are tensioned.
I spot face them about .010" below the proposed final deck.
I then "deck the case" ...usually about .070", to make sure that ALL four will clean up
and have a nice flat surface for the barrel to sit on.
All surfaces must be at the same height from the crankshaft centreline.
First step is for piston clearance,
and second step locates the barrel.
Before decking #3, I press in a sleeve
on top of the 'deep' top case saver,
to get a bit more support.
See the top stud hole closest to the FW.
By doing the bore and deck in one machine setting
you know that they are dead square.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on June 28th, 2009 at 06:03 AM |
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You will note that the decking process is only removing just enough material for the barrel to sit on.
Also note that I have used a nice large radius in the corners. (3mm radius)
Going to a larger bore,
is a good way to remove he sharp corners that are there from the VW factory.
Sharp corners are a good place for cracks to start,
so it is good to get rid of them.
Doing the job properly takes twice as long as boring the hole straight to the bottom,
with no steps , radii, or decking.
But it will give your engine a good base for a better lifespan
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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Brian
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| posted on June 28th, 2009 at 07:35 AM |
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only a complete fuckwit would bore the case without a step
there is a few fuckwits out there
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trickysimon
A.k.a.: Simon Azzopardi
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| posted on June 28th, 2009 at 10:16 AM |
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Always wanted to see how this was done 
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on June 28th, 2009 at 10:58 AM |
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perfect and to the "nth degree" as always DB 
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on June 28th, 2009 at 10:33 PM |
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How much do u charge for this kinda service dangerous?
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on June 29th, 2009 at 05:36 AM |
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I don't do it for anybody, it takes too long.
I am currently doing it on my big lathe,
so all the studs and oil suction pipe need to be removed.
I am saving up for a milling machine, may be then...prob about .....?
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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Stanley
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| posted on June 29th, 2009 at 06:58 AM |
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wow...excellent stuff.
Once the mill arrives the sky is the limit
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 matberry
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| posted on June 29th, 2009 at 09:24 AM |
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Dave well done as usual.
Not trying to steal any thunder, but if anyone wants this done, I (and probably Dave too) can organise it in Bris. Cost runs around $220- $270.
As a comparison, a less perfecto job may be around $120
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on June 29th, 2009 at 05:55 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
around $220- $270.
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OK.
May be I WILL do some for people!
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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matberry
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| posted on June 29th, 2009 at 10:45 PM |
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^^^^^About time Dave
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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| posted on June 30th, 2009 at 10:05 PM |
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Good work Dave...........unfortunately there is plenty of workshops out there just boring a hole straight through, some using a drill press!!!
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dekkerboy
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| posted on December 14th, 2009 at 02:11 PM |
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Mick motors charge $220 for the case to be milled for 94's
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on June 22nd, 2010 at 08:42 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Craig Torrens
Good work Dave...........unfortunately there is plenty of workshops out there just boring a hole straight through, some using a drill press!!!
as a reference Stan Pobjoy charges $122 ($156 for an Aluminium case)for this work.....with the step bore, radius corners and the faces machined (and
yes its perfect!)
If anyone is getting this type of work done, then make sure you use a trained machinist that knows what they are doing.(and yes Dave is trained!)
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I think these prices may have changed now.
See the PDF attachment that Craig posted, for the latest prices.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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76bug
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| posted on June 22nd, 2010 at 09:23 AM |
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wow its gone up $7 for a MAG case, its still half the price of some other places and top quality
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on June 22nd, 2010 at 02:03 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 76bug
wow its gone up $7 for a MAG case, its still half the price of some other places and top quality
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http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?action=attachment&tid=84...
You need to add the bore AND deck price if you want a case bored for 94's.
129 + 89= $218
plus if you need case savers add that too, +$149.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
23 Windows of Awesome
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| posted on June 22nd, 2010 at 05:45 PM |
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Oh, thats a bargain then!
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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 vw54
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| posted on March 7th, 2013 at 08:07 PM |
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HANG the price
Finding someone to do the job or is interetsed in it is far more important
Good machine shops are disappearing VERY fast
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nils
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| posted on March 8th, 2013 at 09:35 AM |
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thanks for the write up dave, always interested in this stuff
Quit calling rust patina
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on March 9th, 2013 at 05:15 AM |
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This is nearly 4 years ago.
I have had my milling machine for a while now, so dont use the lathe any more.
Who ever people get to do their case machining,
ask them to use a radius tool (minimum 2 mm radii),
spot face the case savers just below the final deck,
and sleeve the #3 deep stud hole
to help support that thin web that is left when boring for 94's.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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bushed
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| posted on September 30th, 2016 at 09:12 AM |
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need to replace a broken head-stud 8mm ! recent Mexican case ..stud snapped on 1661 tp mtr
had a case saver in it ....hours to remove....anyone got larger savers ?
tried Micks just need 1 for ca 13mm dia saver and a 8 mm stud
happy to pay postage etc
0421286423
Bern...happy to come for a drive Sat?
want any vw bits old but like me, Made in Germany!!!
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