| [ Total Views: 4173 | Total Replies: 22 | Thread Id: 80701 ] |
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 Uber Kafer
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 posted on December 7th, 2009 at 11:36 PM |
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P0R15 - its as good as they claim!
HOT TIP, if you are doing ANY resto work check out the POR15 products. http://www.por15.com.au
After you have cleaned the majority of crap n gunge off with scraper, wire brush, elbow grease etc or whatever you use, the 'Marine Clean' product
will get the last residue of everything off. Then use the 'Metal Ready' product to convert the existing rust. Then paint with 2 coats of Rust
Preventative Paint (within 3 to 5 hours of each other) and even using a paint brush it looked as good as the spray job we did with other products.
By comparison we did a front beam using a three step process, cleaned it with solvent, wire brush, degreaser, everything we could throw at it. Then we
used a common industrial rust converter, then used the spray gun for two coats of industrial enamel. At the same time we did the front of the chassis
with the three step por15 process and the difference is incredible. Ideal for chassis, suspension, floor pans, lotsa stuff. They reckon it stops
rust permanently. Thats a big claim. But worth testing I reckon.
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h
A.k.a.: Towely BuMpEr KING! ILLegal ALIEN on a roadtrip
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| posted on December 8th, 2009 at 11:07 AM |
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pics would be good to see
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 Yogie
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| posted on December 8th, 2009 at 11:11 AM |
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I used some about 6 years ago (silver) to paint the inside edges of my bumpers as the chrome doesn't work too well in that area and they have been
great since with no signs of wearing off or any rust. I just used a paint brush as well and it looks good.
Yogie
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on December 8th, 2009 at 04:12 PM |
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POR 15 has been used in the USA for 20 years
Most cars that are restored over there have used POR 15 under the chassis etc as stones don't chip it.. so no rust..
The chassis black doesn't like UV rays.. goes very dull...
but this won't happen on Your chassis..
I have two sons who have used it... and I know others who swear by it...
another similar product in the USA is Silver bullet...
You can hit Your POR15 painted chassis with a hammer without any damage.. this stuff IS GOOD...
Why You would bother with any other chassis paint ????
and all done with a paint brush.... lol
LEE
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Uber Kafer
HOT TIP, if you are doing ANY resto work check out the POR15 products. http://www.por15.com.au
After you have cleaned the majority of crap n gunge off with scraper, wire brush, elbow grease etc or whatever you use, the 'Marine Clean' product
will get the last residue of everything off. Then use the 'Metal Ready' product to convert the existing rust. Then paint with 2 coats of Rust
Preventative Paint (within 3 to 5 hours of each other) and even using a paint brush it looked as good as the spray job we did with other products.
By comparison we did a front beam using a three step process, cleaned it with solvent, wire brush, degreaser, everything we could throw at it. Then we
used a common industrial rust converter, then used the spray gun for two coats of industrial enamel. At the same time we did the front of the chassis
with the three step por15 process and the difference is incredible. Ideal for chassis, suspension, floor pans, lotsa stuff. They reckon it stops
rust permanently. Thats a big claim. But worth testing I reckon.
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- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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newghia
A.k.a.: Noddy
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| posted on December 9th, 2009 at 10:29 AM |
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The base product is not UV stable,
All the top coats are
It is very good, brush & roller will flow out for a pretty smooth finish, sprayed surfaces are awesome
Step up to get out !!!
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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 posted on December 9th, 2009 at 11:51 AM |
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Yes,
a brushed on black GLOSSY POR 15 chassis looks like its been sprayed on.. it just flows... EXCELLENT
The main reason its used overseas is the SALT and chemicals used on icy roads in the Northern Hemisphere eats bare metal very quickly..
so POR 15 doesn't chip.... when applied correctly...
to chassis under guards/fenders etc...
the alternative overseas is to use Your old engine oil to coat under Your beetle.. very often...
and a leaking VW engine is all oily greasy so the chemicals and salt don't eat it either...
I bought a beetle a few years ago locally and sitting under a tree was the original VW engine... next to a swimming pool ...
whatever chemicals or salt they were using in the pool had eaten most of the steel and most of the alloy....
Never ever seen anything like it.... YIKES...
No wonder they use POR 15 over there...
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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BlueV2
A.k.a.: Mark
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| posted on December 9th, 2009 at 12:54 PM |
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This is what it looks like after it has been marine cleaned and then had metal ready applied.
And then with POR 15 on it.
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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Camo
A.k.a.: Kev
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on December 9th, 2009 at 05:38 PM |
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I cant talk on the rust proof quality, but the finish on my floor pan came up beautiful (my thoughts only).
Kev
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Uber Kafer
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| posted on December 10th, 2009 at 09:45 AM |
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thanks for the pics Camo, they show it better than mine do. I'm inspired now, for years I have had no satisfaction with killing rust on any resto
work I have done on VW's or Landrovers. The floor pan looks great!
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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| posted on December 10th, 2009 at 09:54 AM |
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I used it on a car.......did all the prep properly.....and it peeled off 
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on December 10th, 2009 at 10:06 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Craig Torrens
I used it on a car.......did all the prep properly.....and it peeled off
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Hi
That's what worries me, I've often used Killrust or White Knight products, much less hassles in prep and as we don't have extreme road conditions
it lasts OK.
Steve
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Bizarre
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The artist formerly known as blue74l
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| posted on December 10th, 2009 at 11:14 AM |
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I know of two other cases like Craigs
Both were done properly
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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| posted on December 10th, 2009 at 02:24 PM |
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White Knight
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cam070
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on December 10th, 2009 at 02:43 PM |
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POR15 inspires me, might have to get me some of that.....and hopefully it won't peel off.
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Dasdubber
A.k.a.: Alan Agyik
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| posted on December 10th, 2009 at 09:03 PM |
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Like Craig, I had it peel off once - admittedly it was applied over primer not bare metal BUT I double checked with the rep first and was assured it
would adhere. I guess I should give it another go over bare metal but once bitten twice shy so they say.
Al
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zjm
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| posted on December 12th, 2009 at 04:22 PM |
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por15 = shit
Ive just used the por 15 fuel tank kit in my bike tank because there was a little surface rust on the bottom and it bothered me the tank was ok as
long as it had some fuel in it
this crap has split and pealed off and now Im up for 2 grand for a new tank I hadnt even put fuel in it yet
I painted a chassis in kill rust 20 years ago and it still looks good
typical american product that doesnt live up to the hype like a harley or a jeep etc
I followed the instructions to the letter and was waiting the 4 days for it to cure and it failed on the third
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BlueV2
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| posted on December 14th, 2009 at 04:21 PM |
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There is also this stuff that appears to be the same as POR 15 but is cheaper. Never used it, but might give it a go after I have run out of POR.
http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/index.html
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on December 14th, 2009 at 06:12 PM |
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Hi
I would to hear from anyone using the kbs stuff
Steve
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Flintstones
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| posted on December 15th, 2009 at 09:08 AM |
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Por15, wouldn't waste my money on that again.
I went the grey, needed more and when it was delivered was a different shade of grey!!!
And like the others on here followed the instructions and it peeled.
Not only that, the grey went to a dull matt finish after some time and it wasn't even exposed to the sun's UV rays.........
Now I have to waste more money on stripping my pan + parts to make it look nice.
Cheers
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on December 15th, 2009 at 10:19 AM |
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Hi
Ive read the prep needed on that KBS stuff, I think I will stay with white knight http://www.whiteknightpaints.com.au/
Steve
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t_tuffnut
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| posted on January 22nd, 2010 at 08:21 AM |
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I've used the KBS system on my pan, front beam and various other bits and pieces, such as brake drums, fuel tank and steering arms. Works a treat.The
only thing is that you need to brush it on in thin coats, to get it to dry bubble free. Looks great once it has dried though.
Sticks like anything! If you get it on your hands, it is there for a week or so.
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FROSTY
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| posted on January 31st, 2010 at 07:39 AM |
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I did a 63 pan 7 years ago and is still on and super strong, pan was sanblasted and preped with the metal ready. I made sure there was nothing left of
the old paint/ oil/grease anywhere.
I'll be using it again.
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vassy66T1
A.k.a.: Marcus Vass
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| posted on February 24th, 2010 at 07:46 PM |
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I used por15 on my single cab tray almost two years ago now.
I rubbed it back (take shine off) and coated over the top with a ute tray finish.
Has lasted well to this point.
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