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 jjwebb123
A.k.a.: Jason
Wolfsburg Wizard
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 posted on January 6th, 2010 at 02:45 PM |
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Should i disconnect the exhaust heater exchange past manifold?
hi guys.
I live in far north QLD and its pretty hot most of the year,and i bought a new exhaust for my beetle,just waiting on j-pipes to finish off.We
installed it today.
Now do i have to connect the heater exchange pipe that runs past the intake manifold to my exhaust.? Becuase i dont think there is much need for it up
here.Also do you know of anyways that you can disconnect it other than cutting it off with a angle grinder.lol.
its either keep it for the original looks and put up with the heat.?Or bye bye to looks and have a cooler engine.?
Any ideas will be of help.
thanks
"A car for the people, an affordable Volkswagen, would bring great joy to the masses and the problems of building such a car must be faced with
courage."
Adolf Hitler At opening of 1934 Berlin Auto Show
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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 posted on January 6th, 2010 at 03:02 PM |
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HI
I would keep them...
keeps the inlet manifold hot...
unless You Never have cold weather...
I found Mine was blocked when I drove over a mountain
where the temperature was very cold..
Engine stopped when carby froze up...
very nice looking exhaust... where the heater is connected...
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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 Bizarre
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The artist formerly known as blue74l
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| posted on January 6th, 2010 at 03:15 PM |
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It also depends if they are drilled or not.
If it is not drilled out then there is not (as much) much point in connecting it
If it is drilled out then you need to otherwise you have an exhaust leak
Manifold sweating can occur in humid areas as well.
So it is better that you do connect it
That said - i didnt have mine connected in Sydney for 5 year and was fine
Well - it was bolted but not drilled out.
I also ran a Progressive which didnt have any heater pipes and that was fine as well
Futue te ipsum!!!
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jjwebb123
A.k.a.: Jason
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on January 6th, 2010 at 03:29 PM |
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.they are not drilled.here is the rest of my system lee.lol 
"A car for the people, an affordable Volkswagen, would bring great joy to the masses and the problems of building such a car must be faced with
courage."
Adolf Hitler At opening of 1934 Berlin Auto Show
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 vw54
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| posted on January 6th, 2010 at 04:19 PM |
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if there not drill then leave it that way but use some 6mm bolts to bring them together
so it will support the inlet mainfold better and have less vibration for the cyclinder heads mainfold bolts n nuts
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Uber Kafer
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| posted on January 18th, 2010 at 11:24 AM |
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Spot the obvious mistake everybody...... Who else noticed that there are no sealing shrouds around the yellow spark plug connectors on the lovely
blue and yellow spark plug leads???
JJweb123, excuse me if you are already onto this issue but it is critical that every such opening in the air cooling shroud is sealed, by what ever
means possible. You will need to obtain a set of leads made specifically for the VW type 1 air cooled angine and they come with the shrouds. I
really dont think its possible to retro-fit the shrouds to your sort of leads as the shrouds dont have much stretch and I expect that the yellow
connectors are permanently bonded onto the blue cable.
As for the inlet manifold pre-heat runner, blocking it off in warmer climates was recognised as giving several horsepowers gain way back in the
sixties, but at the expense of drive-ability when its cold.
So if you want to block it off, put a coin, 20cent I think, on top of the gasket which should be between the exhaust system flange and the inlet
manifold pre-heat runner flange. Its only needed to block at one end to stop the flow, as heat wont be conducted efficiently without gas flow.
(later correction - you will need to block both ends to get a proper seal)
However, If the pre-heat runner has corroded through from the inside, a problem which is quite typical, you can block both ends.
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