| [ Total Views: 3550 | Total Replies: 22 | Thread Id: 83355 ] |
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 hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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48's and straight cuts
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| posted on April 27th, 2010 at 08:49 PM |
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Suspension Setup Tips, hope it helps.
why thankyou Mr Torrens 
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vassy66T1
A.k.a.: Marcus Vass
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| posted on April 28th, 2010 at 07:24 AM |
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Great info Craig! Ta
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westi
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what the
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| posted on May 1st, 2010 at 11:44 PM |
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man that must have taken awhile.
maybe some pic's of all those things might help for the peolpe that don't like reading.
great info.
down sharon.
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Sides
A.k.a.: Dave Sidery
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| posted on September 20th, 2011 at 11:40 AM |
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Ummm... where'd the original post go !?!?!
Craigy's list of "if this is happening, do this" could be really helpful....
VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
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Aussie Dubbin
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on September 20th, 2011 at 11:43 AM |
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x2 it been gone a while?
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JVLRacing
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| posted on September 20th, 2011 at 11:15 PM |
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maybe mr torrens deleted hes own post
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
23 Windows of Awesome
48's and straight cuts
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| posted on September 21st, 2011 at 06:00 AM |
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 .......i was looking at it not so long ago
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 vw54
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| posted on September 21st, 2011 at 07:59 AM |
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must of had a re think on the idea
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cnfabo
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| posted on September 21st, 2011 at 10:35 AM |
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none of it applies to a evo cause you can just press a button....
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sander288
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| posted on September 21st, 2011 at 11:28 AM |
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heres a handling tip,
understeer is when the front of the car hits the wall
oversteer is when the back of the car hits the wall
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Sides
A.k.a.: Dave Sidery
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| posted on September 21st, 2011 at 11:57 AM |
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Heh heh, cheers Shaun... combine that with a healthy dose of "Shiny side up" and how could anyone ever go wrong !!!
VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
Join a car club - get car peeps
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'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
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JVLRacing
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| posted on September 21st, 2011 at 12:03 PM |
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ohwww dear EVO jokes!!!
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vassy66T1
A.k.a.: Marcus Vass
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| posted on September 22nd, 2011 at 01:32 PM |
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RIDE
Too much spring: overall
Harsh and choppy ride
Much unprovoked sliding
Car will not put power down on corner exit . excessive wheel-spin
Relatively too much spring: front
Understeer although the car may initially point in well
Front breaks loose over bumps in corners
Front tyres lock while braking over bumps
Relatively too much spring: rear
Oversteer immediately on application of power
Excessive wheel-spin
Too little spring: overall
Car contacts the track a lot
Floating ride with excess vertical chassis movement, pitch and roll
Sloppy and inconsistent response
Relatively too little spring: rear
Excessive squat on acceleration accompanied by excessive rear negative camber, leading to oversteer and poor power down characteristics
Tendency to fall over on outside rear tyre and flop into oversteer and wheel-spin
ANTI-ROLL BARS
Too much anti-roll bar: overall
Car will be very sudden in response and will have little feel
Car will tend to slide or skate rather than taking a set especially in slow and medium speed corners
Car may dart over one wheel or diagonal bumps
Relatively too much anti-roll bar: front
Corner entry understeer which usually becomes progressively worse as the driver tries to tighten the corner radius.
Relatively too much anti-roll bar: rear
If the imbalance is extreme can cause corner entry oversteer
Corner exit oversteer. Car won't put down power but goes directly to oversteer due to inside wheel-spin
Excessive sliding on corner exit
Car has a violent reaction to major bumps
Too little anti-roll bar: overall
Car is lazy in response, generally sloppy
Car is reluctant to change direction in chicane and esses
Relatively too little anti-roll bar: front
Car falls over onto outside tyre on corner entry and then washes out into understeer
Car is lazy in direction changes
Relatively too little anti-roll: rear
My own opinion is that on most road courses a rear anti-roll bar is a bad thing. Anti-roll bars transfer lateral load from the unladen tyre to the
laden tyre exactly what we don't want at the rear. I would much rather use enough spring to support the rear of the car. The exception comes when
there are washboard ripples at corner exits, as on street circuits and poorly paved hillclimb circuits.
SHOCK ABSORBER FORCES
Too much shock: overall
A very sudden car with harsh ride qualities, much sliding and wheel patter
Car will not absorb road surface irregularities but crashes over them
Too much rebound force
Wheels do not return quickly to road surface after displacement. Inside wheel in a corner may be pulled off the road by the damper while still
loaded
Car may jack down over bumps or in long corners causing a loss of tyre compliance. Car does not power down well at exit of corners when road surface
is not extremely smooth
Too much bump force: general
Harsh reaction to road surface irregularities.
Car slides rather than sticking
Car doesn't put power down well - driving wheels hop.
Too much low piston speed bump force
Cars reaction to steering input too sudden
Cars reaction to lateral and longitudinal load transfer too harsh
Too much high piston speed bump force
Cars reaction to minor road surface irregularities too harsh, tyres hop over chatter bumps and ripples in braking areas and corner exits.
Too little shock: overall
Car floats a lot (the Cadillac ride syndrome) and oscillates after bumps
Car dives and squats a lot
Car rolls quickly in response to lateral acceleration and may tend to fall over onto the outside front tyre during corner entry and outside rear tyre
on corner exit.
Car is generally sloppy and unresponsive
Too little rebound force: overall
Car floats oscillates after bumps (the Cadillac ride syndrome)
Too little bump force: overall
Initial turn in reaction soft and sloppy
Excessive and quick roll, dive and squat
Too little low piston speed bump force
Car is generally imprecise and sloppy in response to lateral (and, to a lesser extent longitudinal) accelerations and to driver steering inputs
Too little high piston speed bump force
Suspension may bottom over the largest bumps on the track resulting in momentary loss of tyre contact and excessive instantaneous loads on suspension
and chassis
Dead shock on one corner
A dead shock is surprisingly difficult for a driver to identify and/or isolate
At the rear, that car will fall over onto the outside tyre and oversteer in one direction only
At the front, the car will fall over onto the outside tyre on corner entry and then understeer.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Front toe-in: too much
Car darts over bumps, under heavy braking and during corner entry is generally unstable
Car won't point into corners, or if extreme. May point in very quickly and then dart and wash out
Front toe-out: too much
Car wanders under heavy braking and may be somewhat unstable in a straight line, especially in response to single wheel or diagonal bumps and/or wind
gusts
Car may point into corners and then refuse to take a set
If extreme will cause understeer tyre drag in long corners
Rear toe-in: too little
Power on oversteer during corner exit
Rear toe-in: too much
Rear feels light and unstable during corner entry. Car slides through corners rather than rolling freely
Rear toe-our: any
Power oversteer during corner exit and (maybe) in a straight line
Straight line instability
Front wheel caster or trail: too little
Car too sensitive (twitchy?)
Too little steering feel and feedback
Front wheel caster or trail: too much
Excessive physical steering effort accompanied by too much self return action and transmittal of road shocks to the drivers hands
General lack of sensitivity to steering input due to excessive force required
Front wheel caster or trail: uneven
Steering effort is harder in one direction than in the other
Car will pull towards the side with less caster good on oval tracks, bad on road courses
Camber: too much negative
Inside of tyre excessively hot and or wearing too rapidly. At the front this will show up as reduced braking capability and at the rear as reduced
acceleration capability. Depending on the racetrack and the characteristics of the individual tyre, inside temperature should be 10-25 hotter than the
outside. Use a real pyrometer with a needle rather than an infra red surface temperature device.
Camber: not enough negative
Outside of tyre will be hot and wearing. This should never be and is almost always caused by running static positive camber at the rear in an effort
to avoid the generation of excessive negative camber under the influence of aero download at high speed.
Bump steer, front: too much toe-in in bump
Car darts over bumps and understeers on corner entry
Bump steer, front: too much toe-out in bump
Car wanders under brakes and may dart over one wheel or diagonal bumps
Car may understeer after initial turn in
TYRES
Too much tyre pressure
Harsh ride, excessive wheel patter, sliding and wheel-spin
High temperature reading and wear at the centre of the tyre
Too little tyre pressure
Soft and mushy response
Reduced footprint area and reduced traction
High temperatures with a dip in the centre of the tread
Front tyres going off?
Gradually increasing understeer
Enter corners slower, get on power earlier with less steering lock
Rear tyres going off?
Gradually increasing power on oversteer. Try to carry more speed through corner and be later and more gradual with power application
Front track width too narrow relative to rear
Car tends to trip over its front feet during slow and medium speed corner entry, evidenced by lots of understeer (remember trying to turn your
tricycle?)
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
23 Windows of Awesome
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| posted on September 22nd, 2011 at 03:06 PM |
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Thanx Marcus/craig
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Sides
A.k.a.: Dave Sidery
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| posted on September 22nd, 2011 at 04:55 PM |
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Awesome - cheers Marcus !!!
VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
Join a car club - get car peeps
My toys
'70 Hillclimb Bug 'Jezebel' w/- Haltech EFI - http://bit.ly/VwTNtQ
'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
01 New Beetle - gf's car, but I turn the spanners |
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mactaylor
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| posted on September 22nd, 2011 at 05:34 PM |
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maybe a few edit/extras by people with extra T1 knowledge would be advantageous? thanks craig and co "better the pool the better the fish!"
EVERLAST CONCRETE TANKS
1800 552 123
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vassy66T1
A.k.a.: Marcus Vass
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| posted on September 22nd, 2011 at 08:28 PM |
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Copyright Craig Torrens I should have added 
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lou0060
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| posted on October 14th, 2011 at 10:14 PM |
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great info Craig and Marcus. I'll need to print it off and stick to the inside of the windscreen for when I take my car out to Lakeside in 2 weeks.
1971 karmann ghia Cabrio - Cruising
1963 beetle Sunroof - gathering dust 
1968 race beetle - twin turbo Subaru - stress relief
1960 beetle - old school low & slow |
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lou0060
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| posted on August 21st, 2013 at 10:02 PM |
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bumped cause I reckon it's time I read thru this again and start making some adjustments to my car.....
Have printed it off and will add to my car folder which I take to all the meets and has all my tech stuff in it.
1971 karmann ghia Cabrio - Cruising
1963 beetle Sunroof - gathering dust
1968 race beetle - twin turbo Subaru - stress relief
1960 beetle - old school low & slow |
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
Scirocco Rare
6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
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| posted on August 21st, 2013 at 10:34 PM |
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I have added to it since then.........for the benefit of Colin 
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colin
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on August 22nd, 2013 at 05:45 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Craig Torrens
I have added to it since then.........for the benefit of Colin
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Maybe you could do a hands on demo one day at a Hillclimb event?.
Ohh what am I thinking, you don,t race a Beetle anymore.
Cheers Col
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
Scirocco Rare
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| posted on August 22nd, 2013 at 05:49 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by colin
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Craig Torrens
I have added to it since then.........for the benefit of Colin
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Maybe you could do a hands on demo one day at a Hillclimb event?.
Ohh what am I thinking, you don,t race a Beetle anymore.
Cheers Col
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maybe I could double enter in yours, and teach you how to drive ?!
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colin
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on August 22nd, 2013 at 05:57 PM |
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Maybe you could enter your own car and show us all!
Cheers Col
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