[ Total Views: 2460 | Total Replies: 8 | Thread Id: 87014 ] |
|
kosa
Casual Dubber
Posts: 36
Threads: 11
Registered: October 10th, 2010
Member Is Offline
Location: Newcastle
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
|
posted on November 6th, 2010 at 10:56 PM |
|
|
Water Proof Time!
hey guys
took my baja out today and found some deeep puddles, i couldn't help myself so i drove through em' all, 40sec later the engine slowed to a stop and
decided to turn off.... (NOOOooo)
getting out i prepared for the worst. 15 min later it started and i slowly drove back avoiding all the muddy holes of death.
Now i assumed that the water got to the engine electrics..?
how can i stop this or avoid this next time??
what are the best/safe setups?
if theres any other possible theories please voice them, more knowledge the better.
Cheers Kosa
P.s i encourage pictures
|
|
h
A.k.a.: Towely BuMpEr KING! ILLegal ALIEN on a roadtrip
Scirocco Rare
fractals - an ever changing lifestyle
Posts: 7670
Threads: 375
Registered: February 3rd, 2005
Member Is Offline
Location: noosa hillbilly 'yee har'
Theme: XMBX Pro Green
Mood: A T3 is not a Kombi - stop waving at me
|
posted on November 7th, 2010 at 12:10 AM |
|
|
simple don't drive thru deep puddles
|
|
bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
23 Windows of Awesome
The international telephone dialing code for Antarctica is 672.
Posts: 6661
Threads: 534
Registered: April 8th, 2005
Member Is Offline
Location: Tanah Merah, SE-QLD
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: A bee bit ma' bottom, now ma' bottom's big!
|
posted on November 7th, 2010 at 01:08 AM |
|
|
You can get rubber/silicone waterproofing kits for your distributor. i know that much.. i have one myself.
it has a lower bit to fit the bottom, and a top bit which tucks in snug with the ignition leads and with the bottom half... sealing the distributor.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
|
|
kosa
Casual Dubber
Posts: 36
Threads: 11
Registered: October 10th, 2010
Member Is Offline
Location: Newcastle
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
|
posted on November 7th, 2010 at 01:20 AM |
|
|
Quote: | Originally
posted by h
simple don't drive thru deep puddles
|
lol easy thing to say... hard thing no to do :P
|
|
kosa
Casual Dubber
Posts: 36
Threads: 11
Registered: October 10th, 2010
Member Is Offline
Location: Newcastle
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
|
posted on November 7th, 2010 at 01:20 AM |
|
|
Quote: | Originally
posted by bajachris88
You can get rubber/silicone waterproofing kits for your distributor. i know that much.. i have one myself.
it has a lower bit to fit the bottom, and a top bit which tucks in snug with the ignition leads and with the bottom half... sealing the distributor.
|
sweet ill get on to that stuff. anything will help in the long run.
|
|
OZ Towdster
A.k.a.: Andrew Westwood
Custom Title Time!
Keen to finish some projects
Posts: 1921
Threads: 132
Registered: December 7th, 2003
Member Is Offline
Location: Alexandra Hills Brisbane QLD
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Yellow
Mood: Having fun in our great land
|
posted on November 7th, 2010 at 07:03 AM |
|
|
Don't use the rubber/ silicon dizzy covers as all they do is make the dizzy humidify and are a pia to remover and refit for tunning etc .
What i done in the past which works well is to cut a foam donut about the same dia as the dizzy and slightly taller than the gap from the case to the
under side of the dizzy with another hole in the centre as the main area water and dust / sand etc gets in is the breather holes in the bottom of the
dizzy ( PS unless you have electronic ignition you CAN'T just seal up these holes as the points need oxygen to spark ) once donut is made remove
dizzy from case and clamp bracket from dizzy , fit foam donut and refit clamp and dizzy therfore giving that part of the dizzy an aircleaner of sorts
.
On the top side of the dizzy pull back the boots of the plug leads and seal the leadinto the cap with some sikaflex or similar and then push teh boot
back over the sealed area , and last but not least smear a bead of grease around top metal dizzy lip to help seal the cap to the dizzy base section .
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
|
|
MickH
A.k.a.: Michael Hutchinson
Bishop of Volkswagenism
Hairy Gutted Sloth
Posts: 3389
Threads: 29
Registered: September 6th, 2003
Member Is Offline
Location: TownsvilleTropical North QLD
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
Mood: Grow a brain...walls don't hit back...
|
posted on November 7th, 2010 at 08:16 AM |
|
|
( PS unless you have electronic ignition you CAN'T just seal up these holes as the points need oxygen to spark )
LOL......what drugs are you on .. Yeh what Andrew said except for
the Oxygen/spark thing.
tssnq.com.au
|
|
kosa
Casual Dubber
Posts: 36
Threads: 11
Registered: October 10th, 2010
Member Is Offline
Location: Newcastle
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue ( Default )
|
posted on November 7th, 2010 at 12:06 PM |
|
|
righto will steer clear of the rubber/sillicon ones.
im gonna have a go at your foam, grease and silicon no more gaps idea and ill get back to u one the progress
so can i or can i not block up those little holes??
|
|
OZ Towdster
A.k.a.: Andrew Westwood
Custom Title Time!
Keen to finish some projects
Posts: 1921
Threads: 132
Registered: December 7th, 2003
Member Is Offline
Location: Alexandra Hills Brisbane QLD
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Yellow
Mood: Having fun in our great land
|
posted on November 7th, 2010 at 06:02 PM |
|
|
DO not block them up but you can oil the foam donut slightly which will also help with the resistence of the water and be carefull when greasing the
cap if you don't have a dust cover over the points as a drop of grease in the points and your not gunna start .
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
|
|