| [ Total Views: 565 | Total Replies: 13 | Thread Id: 88792 ] |
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 Gangel
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| posted on February 17th, 2011 at 12:55 AM |
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Weird engine stalling issue T1
Hi pplz, i have a beetle (~72) wiht a 1600... from what pplz are telling me on this forum!!
recently i changed sparks, HT leads, cleaned the carby and tightened nuts etc and it was running well for a week/month
Recently when i start it in the morning it starts FINE, but wants to stall unless i keep it reved a bit. this is not a pain, and i can adjust ignition
thing to help wiht this... (choke??)
My issue is after turning it on first thing, when i start to release clutch it stalls. It will continue to do this unless i rev the crap out of it
even pulling away in first gear.
It has the same issue in 2nd and then im fine.
After its running and i stop at lights just 2 mins down the road i have no issue with anything and i cant pull away in first as normal at low
revs...
Any ideas what may be wrong here...?/? Maybe i need somone to look at my carby... perhaps composition is wrong??
Any help appreciated 
Glenn
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Joel
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| posted on February 17th, 2011 at 08:26 AM |
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I see your engine has had the token preheater pipe removal
That will do it every time.
Originally the intake manifolds had a small pipe underneath that connected to the exhaust.
The hot gas flowing through keeps the intake manifold warm and stops icing which causes exactly what you describe.
People will tell you they're not needed in hot climates.....bullcrap.
The change of state from a liquid to a vapour causes refrigeration in all conditions, just the engine deals better with it once its warmed up.
People chop them off usually cos they rust out and leak exahust into the engine bay
But yes, yours are defiantly cut off
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Gangel
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| posted on February 17th, 2011 at 10:10 AM |
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ah ok,
Is there any reason this was no issue at all for the first 3 weeks?
Is the only solution getting a new intake with the smaller tube?
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grumble
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| posted on February 17th, 2011 at 11:19 AM |
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Also check that the cut out solenoid on the left near the distributor is tight. Joel is right these little engines are not meant to have bits cut
off,disconnected etc.
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Joel
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| posted on February 17th, 2011 at 12:18 PM |
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Easiest fix would be a new or 2nd hand manidolf, as long as your exhaust has the connections for it still.
Ambient temp has an effect on how severe the problem seems.
Also would be worth checking for vac leaks, although they give the symptoms all the time, not just when cold.
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Gangel
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| posted on February 17th, 2011 at 09:46 PM |
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ok ill look into it.
It seems to be gettting worse!!!
The other morning i had to rev a bit... this morning i had to rev so much i pushed it onto the street OFF so i didnt wake the neighbours!!!
It seems to be backfiring more recently when i go fast engine speeds then let it slow down just in gear (no clutch).. as in massive backfire/gurgling
sounds...
could this all be part of some bigger picture??
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 matberry
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| posted on February 17th, 2011 at 10:27 PM |
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From your descriptions you may have a manifold leak creating a lean fuel mixture, lean out will have more effect when cold but is very dangerous to
your engine as it makes it overheat in a big way.
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on February 18th, 2011 at 09:20 AM |
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Sound like air leaking,,, what did you touch and upset in the manifold line? sounds like you need to unsure it is totally sealed.
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Sides
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| posted on February 18th, 2011 at 02:18 PM |
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Yeah, manifold leak would be my thinking.
When were the boots that seal the manifold end casting's last replaced ???
In that red & blue engine pic the right hand side end casting (#1 and #2 cyl) looks like its boot could be leaking... it appears dirtier than the
other side, which _could_ be from air rushing past it on the way into the manifold. Also the paint seems to be damaged on the tinwork immediately
below... often a sign of leaking fuel (since petrol can dissolve paint).
That would be the first place to check IMHO
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Sides
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| posted on February 18th, 2011 at 02:23 PM |
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Oh and hey... prolly not related, but what is that big silver coloured vertical bit in the middle of the engine, just in front of the fuel pump ???
Seems to go from a fuel pump stud to a carb stud... reminds me a lot of part of a Kadron linkage setup....
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 barls
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| posted on February 18th, 2011 at 02:37 PM |
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its a brace to stop the manifold from moving they fit them when they remove the pre heater tubes off the manifold
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Sides
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| posted on February 18th, 2011 at 02:42 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by barls
its a brace to stop the manifold from moving they fit them when they remove the pre heater tubes off the manifold
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Ahh, cool - thanks barls... that's my something new learnt for the day !!!
I'm used to there just being that ear on the bottom of the manifold, that's clamped by the nut on that longer case stud, but yeah... bracing at the
front would make sense too.
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Joel
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| posted on February 18th, 2011 at 03:17 PM |
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More cost cutting saw that mounting ear dropped in 73 when they changed to the bigger preheat pipe
So when the preheater pipes get cut off on the later ones they rock around like honeymooners and usually tear up the joiner boots.
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Gangel
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| posted on February 19th, 2011 at 10:41 AM |
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Yeh it was all there when i got it... even the missing manifold tube thing!
As for the right manifold leak, that was what i fixed when i took everyhting out 5 weeks ago.... Perhaps after pushing it back in and tightening it
something is failing? This would just require new anifod seals would it not?
Although i cant be sure... but that sounds like a good chance that is the issue as i did muck around (with a booklet to guide me) and try and fix
that.. so chances are the seals are buggered!!
Good place to start??
Thanks for the input ppls!!!
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