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 Jiffy
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| posted on April 29th, 2011 at 02:26 PM |
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Wire to the doors
Hi Guys,
I've got an alarm and central locking that I'm planning to put in the bug.
As well as that, I was reading up on the electric window write-up in this forum and think it might be something I'd like to consider down the
track.
Both of these mods will require passing wires from the body to inside the door, which is my question.
What is the best way of doing that? Modern cars have a considerable gap, but from what i can tell, there is only a very small gap between the body and
closed door in the beetle. Does anyone know how big this gap is when the door is latched?
Some ideas I theoretically tossed up in my head were;
- A wire straight from one to the other with a big enough hole and grommit that allow is to slide as it closes.
- Some sort of conduit that could guide it as it slides
- Create a bit of a loop in the wire that will sit in the door gap (depending on it's size)
- A high/low entry/exit. Eg the wire comes out low on the body and enters high in the door. This makes the wire much longer in the door gap and will
allow more movement without sliding.
Does anyone have any other good suggestions on how to achieve this without issues?
For reference, the central locking uses 5 core trailer wire, so it's quite thick.
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Ampdub
Officially Full-On Dubber
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| posted on April 29th, 2011 at 02:44 PM |
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I am in this conundrum myself and the things i have considered is the long wire, flat cable such as trailer cable and running a flat cable around the
jams and make it look like an old style door check strap much like this http://www.eisparts.com/211841387.html
post up how you get on.
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Joel
Scirocco Rare
Now containing 100% E-Wang
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| posted on April 29th, 2011 at 02:48 PM |
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It's only a small gap lucky to be 10mm so the door light switch works which makes it a real pain in the arse to run wires.
I've got central locking and power windows in mine, I ended up running the power window wiring out from under the door panel and across to under the
kick panel carpet at the bottom so the door wasnt squashing it when it shut.
There's just too many thick wires to neatly run it through the pillars.
High entry and low exit like you mentioned with grommets in the pillars and doors works well, my central locking has been like that for nearly 12
years now.
I used to have a pair of splits in the doors as well which was even more wiring.
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beetleboyjeff
A.k.a.: Jeff Walsh
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on April 29th, 2011 at 11:55 PM |
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I attacked the problem on 2 fronts.
Firstly, I 'tapped' both the A pillar and the front of the door in with a hammer and a block of wood, to gain more room between these 2 panels. No
one has ever noticed though.
I then got some hose (I think it is oil line) and gromets that fit on it tightly. I drilled holes in the A pillar to suit the gromets, and matching
holes in the door which are big enough to allow the hose to slide easily. The gromets then hold the hose tightly in the A pillar, and slide in and out
of the door frame, and the wires inside are protected.
The small hose is for the courtesy lights in the door, and has been there for years. The 2 larger hoses are for the remote central locking, and the
electric windows. Has been in now for 5 years next week, and no problems.
From your ole' mate Jeff
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
Aircooled Master
Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138% - YIKES --
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| posted on April 30th, 2011 at 12:08 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Jiffy
Hi Guys,
I've got an alarm and central locking that I'm planning to put in the bug.
As well as that, I was reading up on the electric window write-up in this forum and think it might be something I'd like to consider down the
track.
Both of these mods will require passing wires from the body to inside the door, which is my question.
What is the best way of doing that? Modern cars have a considerable gap, but from what i can tell, there is only a very small gap between the body and
closed door in the beetle. Does anyone know how big this gap is when the door is latched?
Some ideas I theoretically tossed up in my head were;
- A wire straight from one to the other with a big enough hole and grommit that allow is to slide as it closes.
- Some sort of conduit that could guide it as it slides
- Create a bit of a loop in the wire that will sit in the door gap (depending on it's size)
- A high/low entry/exit. Eg the wire comes out low on the body and enters high in the door. This makes the wire much longer in the door gap and will
allow more movement without sliding.
Does anyone have any other good suggestions on how to achieve this without issues?
For reference, the central locking uses 5 core trailer wire, so it's quite thick.
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[size=4]HI
You can get 7 core trailer wire also...
and use the extra two wires for speakers..
I driled a hole just below the door interior light switches
then as I only needed two wires for speakers I used a covered round two core wire and grommets in the body and doors..
the cable is attached in the body and and moves in and out of the door grommets... [slides with armorall]
Best to drill where Jeff has drilled...
down towards the bottom of the door as near the switch, the metal in the door is double thickness...
I have central locking switches to go in My doors and would like electric windows also..
if not too difficult... lol
so more holes to drill .. lol
You could run the 5 or 7 core cable in thru a round black oil hose like Jeff... mount the hose in the door jamb.. a pillar..
and allow it to go in and out of the door grommet...
Lee
[/size]
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Jiffy
Learner Dubber
Posts: 18
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| posted on July 5th, 2011 at 10:59 PM |
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Hi Guys,
Thanks for the advise. I decided to go the 5-core trailer wire with the high-low option.
So far, so good.
Here's the result;
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