| [ Total Views: 1886 | Total Replies: 30 | Thread Id: 92356 ] |
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 68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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 posted on August 28th, 2011 at 02:57 AM |
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Is 120C oil temperature too hot??
Driving on the highway at 100-110 KMH for about an hour I noticed My oil temp had gone to 120C...
Outside temp was about 16C
normally between towns locally it sits on 88C most of the time..
once the oil warms up... LOCAL temp up to 20C
I'm going to swap oil coolers... and add dusting..
as I think its going to be too hot in the summer..
so, is 120C too hot for the oil? 20w/50 GTX
LEE
LEE
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- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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HoneyAbba
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| posted on August 28th, 2011 at 04:01 AM |
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Too hot
your Auto fluid will also be cooked at that temp
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HoneyAbba
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| posted on August 28th, 2011 at 04:03 AM |
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thats not an engine cooler surely
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HoneyAbba
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| posted on August 28th, 2011 at 04:05 AM |
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could you not find a worse location ?
nah I don't think so
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Governor
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| posted on August 28th, 2011 at 08:21 AM |
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Also agree with the above 3 posts.
What made you fit the cooler there?
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 matberry
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| posted on August 28th, 2011 at 09:35 AM |
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Too hot for me, especially with such cold ambient.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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vwo60
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| posted on August 28th, 2011 at 09:58 AM |
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I do not get my oil temp over 100 degree's C, your oil cooler is not in the air flow and it is mounted side ways to the air flow, you will need to
find a position that mounts it in the disigned position were it get the air flow through the cooler across it's face, i mounted a cooler at the front
of the car under the spare wheel sheet metal with a scoop to pick up the air from under the bumper,
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Bizarre
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| posted on August 28th, 2011 at 10:15 AM |
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its a stock motor
Why are you mucking round with oil coolers??
Futue te ipsum!!!
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on August 28th, 2011 at 10:35 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Bizarre
its a stock motor
Why are you mucking round with oil coolers??
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because I'm stupid at times.... lol
I just should go back to the doghouse oil cooler...
I'm using the original non doghouse housing at the moment...
I think I will buy a new oil cooler and go back to doghouse..
chers
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Governor
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| posted on August 28th, 2011 at 12:47 PM |
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While your at it buy yourself a tin of black paint....lol
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Joel
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| posted on August 28th, 2011 at 12:57 PM |
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The stock doghouse can keep a modified 1916 cool, a standard 1600 single port in a car with a 4 vent engine lid wouldn't be even breaking a sweat in
summer.
Go back to stock, your engine will thank you.
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Camo
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| posted on August 28th, 2011 at 01:31 PM |
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Lee,
I see that you mentioned it's normally around 88c most of the time.
If this 88c is with the same setup as above, obviously something has changed. Maybe a blockage, low on oil, thrashing it, fan blocked by plastic bag
or similar, loose distributor and timing has changed.
There has to be a reason its changed. Sorry, I'm not much help.
Kev
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1303Steve
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| posted on August 28th, 2011 at 04:05 PM |
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Hi
I drove my sons 1303 up to Sawtell last weekend, its 1904cc most of the time it was on the 80c the oil thermostat opening temp, after good thrash it
would get up around 90c, that's with the front mounted oil cooler opening blocked off and no internal oil cooler.
You may have bumped your timing or something to get that sort of temperature.
The oil cooler your using is not a very efficient type.
Steve
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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 posted on August 28th, 2011 at 04:35 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
The stock doghouse can keep a modified 1916 cool, a standard 1600 single port in a car with a 4 vent engine lid wouldn't be even breaking a sweat in
summer.
Go back to stock, your engine will thank you.
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Well Joel I did have a doghouse oil cooler fan shroud etc
but changed back to the non doghouse shroud...
I might just change back and buy a NEW doghouse oil cooler..
cheers
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on August 28th, 2011 at 04:44 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1303Steve
Hi
I drove my sons 1303 up to Sawtell last weekend, its 1904cc most of the time it was on the 80c the oil thermostat opening temp, after good thrash it
would get up around 90c, that's with the front mounted oil cooler opening blocked off and no internal oil cooler.
You may have bumped your timing or something to get that sort of temperature.
The oil cooler your using is not a very efficient type.
Steve
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OK on the type of cooler Steve...
I have other types too..
but I think I may go back to a doghouse shroud and buy a new oil cooler...
timing was out a bit as haven't really checked it for a long time... was around TDC..?
I still have to check mY SVDA distributor...
still doesn't seem to be working as good as it was before I put the Pertronix kit in it...
have stripped it down as per instructions from aircooled in the USA.. found nothing.. but the vacuum works slightly as low revs.. so its better than
a BOSCH 009.. I had before...
but it doesn't seem to advance like it did at first...
I will strip it down again and see what I can find..??
check they isn't any fuel in the can..
blow the pipe/hoses out etc..
I'm using a brasillian weber which was like new and I keep all linkages oiled.. thinking about twin kadrons on the single port
engine...
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on August 28th, 2011 at 04:47 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Camo
Lee,
I see that you mentioned it's normally around 88c most of the time.
If this 88c is with the same setup as above, obviously something has changed. Maybe a blockage, low on oil, thrashing it, fan blocked by plastic bag
or similar, loose distributor and timing has changed.
There has to be a reason its changed. Sorry, I'm not much help.
Kev
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I was thrashing it Kev... 100-110 KMH most of the time...
and going up hills... flat to the floor... lol
I normally sit on 80-90 KMH locally... unless I'm late for something.. oil cooler isn't in a good spot...
used to be 120C when the cooler was about 2 inches higher..
cheers
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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vvwbeetle
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| posted on August 28th, 2011 at 06:46 PM |
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Hi Lee,
Not sure about yours but in comparison I took my 2332 out on Saturday and it sat at 195 fahrenhiet about 90 degrees. No oil cooler yet. waiting for
1st service to replace it or until it gets warmer. In traffic it sits around 210 - 220 (98-104).
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1303Steve
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| posted on August 28th, 2011 at 07:04 PM |
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Hi Lee
The semi auto dizzy was set at 0 because it had extra mechanical advance to take it out to around 32 degrees total.
If your using a non semi auto dizzy you will need to set it to have around 30-32 degrees total or around 7.5 initial timing.
Where do you measure your oil temp?
Steve
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toplessbug
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| posted on August 29th, 2011 at 11:21 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 68AutoBug
Driving on the highway at 100-110 KMH for about an hour I noticed My oil temp had gone to 120C...
Outside temp was about 16C
normally between towns locally it sits on 88C most of the time..
once the oil warms up... LOCAL temp up to 20C
I'm going to swap oil coolers... and add dusting..
as I think its going to be too hot in the summer..
so, is 120C too hot for the oil? """""" 20w/50 GTX """""""
LEE
about the WORST POSSIBLE choice of oil ,do some research
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Don't argue with an idiot; people watching may not be able to tell the difference.
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kaiisons
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| posted on August 29th, 2011 at 12:13 PM |
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Just tagging onto this thread as it is active and i have similar symptoms.
Details.
73 5 seat microbus
1800 Auto transmission, just serviced.
1800cc T4
Unleaded heads
Twin 36 DRLAs
SS exhaust.
All tinware is in place and the foam seal etc.
Has been dyno tuned
Running Penrite HPR30
Plugs are Bosch W8CC (recommended by mechanic)
Have tried W7CC and still the same.
VDO dipstick sender and gauge.
Scenario:
Driving for any distance on the freeway at around 90-100 my temperature gauge will get up to 118-120*C but driving around town my engine temp does not
rise above 110*C usually it will rise to 110*C and just sit there.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on August 29th, 2011 at 12:43 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by kaiisons
Just tagging onto this thread as it is active and i have similar symptoms.
Details.
73 5 seat microbus
1800 Auto transmission, just serviced.
1800cc T4
Unleaded heads
Twin 36 DRLAs
SS exhaust.
All tinware is in place and the foam seal etc.
Has been dyno tuned
Running Penrite HPR30
Plugs are Bosch W8CC (recommended by mechanic)
Have tried W7CC and still the same.
VDO dipstick sender and gauge.
Scenario:
Driving for any distance on the freeway at around 90-100 my temperature gauge will get up to 118-120*C but driving around town my engine temp does not
rise above 110*C usually it will rise to 110*C and just sit there.
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do you have the bigger air scoops fitted to the side of your bus ?????
do you still have the air flap in the cooling housing ,that directs air to the oil cooler.???
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
Aircooled Master
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| posted on August 29th, 2011 at 12:54 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1303Steve
Hi Lee
The semi auto dizzy was set at 0 because it had extra mechanical advance to take it out to around 32 degrees total.
If your using a non semi auto dizzy you will need to set it to have around 30-32 degrees total or around 7.5 initial timing.
Where do you measure your oil temp?
Steve
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My Bosch SVDA dissy is a new one single vaccum dual advance which is recommended for semi autos..
oil temp sender is in the plate where type 3 engines had their dipstick [engine was a type 3]
I haven't had the sender with other oil coolers so I don't know what they were like.
I do have a smaller oil cooler where the oil goes thru the fins... must be a much better oil cooler..
and see how that goes... before the heat gets here..
Someone commented on the OIL... Castrol GTX which has changed its formula and GTX2 has been discontinued..
so looking for another oil... too..
I'm using 1/2 inch hose as recommended by someone on here
even though My engine has the small oil galleries and pump..
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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HappyDaze
A.k.a.: Greg Mackie
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| posted on August 29th, 2011 at 01:02 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ian.mezz
do you have the bigger air scoops fitted to the side of your bus ?????
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Wise words there, Ian.
After putting holes and scoops to force COOL air into the engine compartment of No.8 Beetle, the oil temp. dropped 25 degrees C.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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toplessbug
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on August 29th, 2011 at 01:06 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by kaiisons
Just tagging onto this thread as it is active and i have similar symptoms.
Details.
73 5 seat microbus
1800 Auto transmission, just serviced.
1800cc T4
Unleaded heads
Twin 36 DRLAs
SS exhaust.
All tinware is in place and the foam seal etc.
Has been dyno tuned
Running Penrite HPR30
Plugs are Bosch W8CC (recommended by mechanic)
Have tried W7CC and still the same.
VDO dipstick sender and gauge.
Scenario:
Driving for any distance on the freeway at around 90-100 my temperature gauge will get up to 118-120*C but driving around town my engine temp does not
rise above 110*C usually it will rise to 110*C and just sit there.
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what distributor?? what is it timed at and how did you time it ?? how is your state of tune & valve adjustment,is the thermostat connected and
functioning correctly ,are the thermostat flaps in the shroud and working ,is the seal around the oil cooler in place, are the bottom tins in place ?
Don't argue with an idiot; people watching may not be able to tell the difference.
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kaiisons
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| posted on August 29th, 2011 at 01:23 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by toplessbug
what distributor?
- Repro SVDA with Pertronix coil and EI
what is it timed at and how did you time it?
- Around 7.5BTDC at idle with strobe and around 32 max with vac disconnected.
how is your state of tune & valve adjustment??
- Just had top end rebuild, and valves have just had their reset. within the last few weeks. As said, new carbs have just been dyno tuned.
is the thermostat connected and functioning correctly?
- this is the puzzling part as i don't think i have a thermostat as there is no thermostat or cables going to the flaps.
are the thermostat flaps in the shroud and working?
- as above i dont think i have a thermostat, but they 'fail' in the open position correct?
is the seal around the oil cooler in place?
- I am not sure what seal you are talking about, but viewing the oil cooler from behind the passenger side rear wheel there is a gap between the tin
and the oil cooler, probably 5mm.
are the bottom tins in place?
- yes
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Thank you for your reply.
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kaiisons
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on August 29th, 2011 at 01:26 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ian.mezz
do you have the bigger air scoops fitted to the side of your bus ?
- No as there has been arguments by very respected vw mechanics that those bigger scoops actually hinder cooling?
do you still have the air flap in the cooling housing ,that directs air to the oil cooler?
- I am pretty sure they are there, i remember my mechanic saying something like, you were missing one on one side so i replaced it.
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Thank you for your reply.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on August 29th, 2011 at 01:51 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by kaiisons
| Quote: | Originally
posted by ian.mezz
do you have the bigger air scoops fitted to the side of your bus ?
- No as there has been arguments by very respected vw mechanics that those bigger scoops actually hinder cooling?
do you still have the air flap in the cooling housing ,that directs air to the oil cooler?
- I am pretty sure they are there, i remember my mechanic saying something like, you were missing one on one side so i replaced it.
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Thank you for your reply.
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those scoops cost about $50 I would try them if your are worried about your temp.
Alot of vw guys would say why fit a temp gauge as they didnt come with one .
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kaiisons
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on August 29th, 2011 at 02:11 PM |
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the seal from the tin to the oil cooler is missing on my bus. are they available new?
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ian.mezz
Wolfsburg Elder
I never said, I could write or spell
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| posted on August 29th, 2011 at 03:24 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by kaiisons
the seal from the tin to the oil cooler is missing on my bus. are they available new?
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give VVDS a ring 02-9789-1777
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toplessbug
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on August 30th, 2011 at 07:26 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by kaiisons
| Quote: | Originally
posted by toplessbug
what distributor?
- Repro SVDA with Pertronix coil and EI
what is it timed at and how did you time it?
- Around 7.5BTDC at idle with strobe and around 32 max with vac disconnected.
how is your state of tune & valve adjustment??
- Just had top end rebuild, and valves have just had their reset. within the last few weeks. As said, new carbs have just been dyno tuned.
is the thermostat connected and functioning correctly?
- this is the puzzling part as i don't think i have a thermostat as there is no thermostat or cables going to the flaps.
are the thermostat flaps in the shroud and working?
- as above i dont think i have a thermostat, but they 'fail' in the open position correct?
is the seal around the oil cooler in place?
- I am not sure what seal you are talking about, but viewing the oil cooler from behind the passenger side rear wheel there is a gap between the tin
and the oil cooler, probably 5mm.
are the bottom tins in place?
- yes
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Thank you for your reply.
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ok thats fine ,when you get an oil cooler seal be certain to check and make the left flap close over the oil cooler properly ,if you dont have a
t'stat and dont look like using one you can even stick a pop rivet in the front of the flap to be certain it stays sealed and make sure the right
flap is there , the t'stat should fail so air is directed to the cooler but it is dependant on the coil spring on the flap shaft, while the engine is
out look at the cooler to see if its clean thru the fins,are the 2 risers to the assist fan either blocked or connected, doesnt matter which its only
to supply warm air to the cabin at idle ,how old is the muffler ,flow can be impeded by carbon and cause exhaust to back up in the port creating a lot
of extra heat,have you done a leak down ,blow by can create a lot of extra heat, are all the blades on the fan
Don't argue with an idiot; people watching may not be able to tell the difference.
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