| [ Total Views: 1041 | Total Replies: 29 | Thread Id: 94673 ] |
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 thebullfrog
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| posted on January 8th, 2012 at 10:30 PM |
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Transmission
So my mates and myself lifted the body today...very satisfying... but no it has come time to get the pan off to the soda blasters in order to rustseal
it..
However, i am very unsure how to remove the gearbox....
Also is it neccesary to remove the gearbox in order to flip the pan over if you get me, as if i was to flip it over to paint it, it would sit on the
old beam ( to be replaced) and where the rear body bolt is....would any harm happen if i did this??
What do i do....
Thanks,
Jeremy
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cam070
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| posted on January 8th, 2012 at 10:51 PM |
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Remove engine, disconnect clutch cable, support box with trolley jack, undo 2 bolts that go into frame horn ends, undo 2 bolts that secure front
gearbox mount (these are under the car at front of frame horns), then slide box/trolley jack backwards. This is assuming drive shafts have been
removed already.
And it makes life easier if you can remove the beam as well when you are prep'ing the pan.
I have just done this, and if I did it again I'd remove the box and beam to strip and paint the pan.
FYI just finished painting the pan yesterday.
Check out this page http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=93277&page=2
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on January 8th, 2012 at 11:00 PM |
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Definatly remove box and beam it is a simple job. You will see. Then you have full access to your pan and it make the darn thing lighter too!!! Good
luck I striped and painted my pan last year have a my build link below
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thebullfrog
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| posted on January 8th, 2012 at 11:02 PM |
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I'm just so nervous about taking the box out ( i dont know why). Engine is removed already and has been for weeks, as is body.... i can easily remove
beam etc..
Cam70: is it as simple as support box with trolley jack, undo 2 bolts that go into frame horn ends, undo 2 bolts that secure front gearbox mount
(these are under the car at front of frame horns), then slide box/trolley jack backwards.
Is that it??
My drive shafts haven't been disconected, how do i go about that...
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vwo60
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| posted on January 9th, 2012 at 06:21 AM |
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You will need to use the correct 12 point double hex drive to remove the socket head cap screws the attach them to the axels and drive flanges, the
link shows a sample but these are availble at any good tool shop,
http://www.jbugs.com/product/5796.html
Make sure that the inside of the cap screws have no crap in them as the tool will slip out if it does not engage fully and you will find them hard to
remove, spend the time to clean the inside well and they will be easy to remove. you will also have to disconect the shift rod inside the tunnel, this
is under the oval plate under the back seat area.
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cesiumfrog
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| posted on January 9th, 2012 at 07:28 AM |
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remove earth strap between transmission and frame horns, wires to starter, reverse light switch wire, clutch cable.
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 matberry
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| posted on January 9th, 2012 at 07:59 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by cesiumfrog
remove earth strap between transmission and frame horns, wires to starter, reverse light switch wire, clutch cable.
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and gear shift rod.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Joel
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| posted on January 9th, 2012 at 08:31 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by thebullfrog
My drive shafts haven't been disconected, how do i go about that...
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Your gearbox is swing axle, the axles and hubs stay attached and come out with the gearbox.
Just unbolt the axles from the spring plates.
So ignore what the others have said re axles 
They thought you had IRS.
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thebullfrog
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| posted on January 9th, 2012 at 08:33 AM |
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Okay, so it sounds like i should really give this a crack, so i will go get the hex bit today.
How much does the box weigh?
Does anybody have any good links/guides to follow?
I have ordered a new H.D shift coupler......when should i swap these over?
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ian.mezz
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| posted on January 9th, 2012 at 08:55 AM |
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youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTTjWVCdK9o
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thebullfrog
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| posted on January 9th, 2012 at 03:04 PM |
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Firstly, to clarify its a swing axle gearbox.
Well, i've started doing this, and im struggling.So far i have removed the clutch cable, undone the brake lines at the drum.
Joel: i have managed to get one bolt undone from where the spring plate meets the axle....they are so difficult to access though.
Other questions i have:
How do i remove the brake lines off the rear bracket? they seem to not want to move. If i have one spanner it just spins the whole assembly (through
the bracket) and if i use both (one on each side of bracket) it just wants to spin.
Anyone one in Tasmania: feel free to give me a hand =)
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Birdman
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| posted on January 9th, 2012 at 04:11 PM |
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You need a proper brake pipe spanner, Get that instead of the 12 point you dont need.
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thebullfrog
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| posted on January 9th, 2012 at 04:46 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Birdman
You need a proper brake pipe spanner, Get that instead of the 12 point you dont need.
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I shall get a couple of brake line spanners....and take back the 12 spliine bit
Okay, update....
Dad came home and was in a good mood for once, so we got everything off!!!! however, with the brake lines, we have removed the bit of stiff hose from
the bracket to the drum, it just remains how do i remove the soft hose that goes from the bracket to the other bracket.
All that is left to do is the shift coupler, the nose cone and the bracket
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cam070
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| posted on January 9th, 2012 at 08:24 PM |
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Btw the box probably weighs about 40 odd kilos. I can pick mine up and move it by hand and i'm no body builder. Helps to remove the starter if you
need to move it frequently like I do.
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thebullfrog
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| posted on January 9th, 2012 at 11:27 PM |
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can anyone provide any tips on the brake lines?
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matberry
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| posted on January 10th, 2012 at 07:36 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by thebullfrog
can anyone provide any tips on the brake lines?
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Same way you removed the steel hard line into the wheel cylinder one end and brake flex line the other.......remove the clips that hold the flex hose
to the chassis, then using a 17mm oe spanner and your new 11mm pipe spanner, undo both connections and it's off,
Like the video that was in an earlier post, you can actually leave all the brake lines connected as a system so no brake bleeding is required on
reassembly, just take off the retaining clips and manoeuvre the brake parts out of the way for trans removal/refitting.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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thebullfrog
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| posted on January 10th, 2012 at 08:22 AM |
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Thanks for that, i shall get some proper line spanners today, along with the 36mm socket, i should make some good progress today, is the centre of
gravity slightly forward of the tranny or furthur forward?
New brakes will be going on with reassembly, so lines will be bled anyway.
Whens the best time to swap the couplers over?
You've been a great help guys.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on January 10th, 2012 at 09:07 AM |
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you can cut the rubber and steel pipes as you should be replacing then . about $35 for a full set front and rear steel pipes and about $ 20 each for
the rubber ones.
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thebullfrog
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| posted on January 10th, 2012 at 09:37 AM |
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Okay, so i already had brake pipe spanners -_- haha, oh well, but i returned the 12 spline, and picked up a 36mm socket, however, the axle nut is on
there so bloody tight, and i can't get it off!! This is with the handbrake on, and tyres off......
If i am unable to remove the axle nut, is it possible to remove the handbrake cable any other way?
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ian.mezz
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| posted on January 10th, 2012 at 11:03 AM |
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undo the hand brake cable from the hand brake lever by undoing the 10m nuts and pull the whole cables out.
you will need the tools for when you put it back together.
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thebullfrog
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| posted on January 10th, 2012 at 12:28 PM |
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What are these tools?? i presume its hard to re-feed the handbrake cable back through? how do you do it where its split.
In other news: The axle nuts are off after the use of a 3/4 breaker, 5ft pipe, 1ft scooter handle and a deep 36mm socket. Yiew.
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Joel
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| posted on January 10th, 2012 at 03:04 PM |
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If you got the axle nuts off just pop the drum off and you will see inside where the handbrake cable hooks onto the operating lever.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on January 10th, 2012 at 03:20 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by thebullfrog
What are these tools?? i presume its hard to re-feed the handbrake cable back through? how do you do it where its split.
In other news: The axle nuts are off after the use of a 3/4 breaker, 5ft pipe, 1ft scooter handle and a deep 36mm socket. Yiew.
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just any tools that you use to pull it apart ,
not hard to pull hand brake cable out.
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thebullfrog
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| posted on January 10th, 2012 at 10:27 PM |
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Well, the gearbox is nearly ready to come off. I just need to undo the couple and the mounting bolts into the horns and at the front and it can come
out, i have taken the drums completly off now as well as removing all the brake lines.
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vlad01
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| posted on January 11th, 2012 at 09:10 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by cam070
Btw the box probably weighs about 40 odd kilos. I can pick mine up and move it by hand and i'm no body builder. Helps to remove the starter if you
need to move it frequently like I do.
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really? they don't feel like 40 to me 
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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DubCty
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| posted on January 11th, 2012 at 06:53 PM |
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Hey mate what corner of Tassie are you in? Im in launceston and can give you a hand.
Straight Cuts – The Best Preparation For A Wife!
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thebullfrog
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| posted on January 11th, 2012 at 08:05 PM |
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Hobart  I don't know I'd that's to far or you to travel.
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thebullfrog
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| posted on January 12th, 2012 at 11:42 PM |
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Thanks guys, its out and the pan is stripped, off to the soda blasters tomorrow. A good milestone
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cam070
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| posted on January 13th, 2012 at 12:35 AM |
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Which soda blaster are you using?
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thebullfrog
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| posted on January 13th, 2012 at 01:06 AM |
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A bloke from rokeby- Ginseng Dragon- aka Ben Stone, he is picking the pan up tomorrow (seeing as i am unable to transport it since dads away and it
wouldn't be to reliable/safe on the eg civic's roofracks.
Why do you ask?
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