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posted on February 5th, 2012 at 07:35 PM
'Rebuild' ...... Options
So my '75 L Bug smokes...... judging by the volume on start-up I'd guess a minimum of a pack a day. It settles down after a few moments but if I
open the oil filler cap it's like standing up close to a replica steam locomotive. I'm figuring that the likely issue is rings, there are no hideous
noises coming from the engine so I don't think we are quite at the point where I need to take him out to the back paddock and put him down, but he
needs some love.
It'd be great to do a complete rebuild, but the two primary factors of time and money make that unlikely, read impossible, at this point in time.
What are my options for a short to medium term option; some middle ground?
I'm guessing that going to the effort of dropping and partially dismantling an engine to replace the rings only would prove to be a false economy; am
I wrong?
Is a 'top-end' only rebuild a viable option? Can I just replace P&C's? If I do this what else must be done and what else is it desirable to
do?
I have the Bentleys and How to rebuild books, but get more confused the more i read. Am I just dreaming and do I need to deal with
life as a 'secondhand smoker' until I can either get a replacement engine or do a complete rebuild?
I'd appreciate some guidance from the brains trust.
Thanks, Dean
"Ownership of a Beetle is not a destination it is a journey."
TorxKiwi
A.k.a.: Dean Newell
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posted on February 6th, 2012 at 05:34 AM
Bump
"Ownership of a Beetle is not a destination it is a journey."
Bizarre
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posted on February 6th, 2012 at 06:33 AM
I guess money is the determining factor
I reckon you are better off watching and getting a $500 2nd hand good otor.
they are out there. Just need to wait.
Usually - a set of P&C's just need a good hone and a new set of rings.
As for the bottom end - mainly depends on the end float.
No point doing a rebuild if the crank is sliding in and out
Guessing the minium you would need to do is
flycut kiss your head for a good seal
reset end float
check flywheel engine seal and O ring
new pushrod tube seals
engine mount - check and replace as required.
manifold gaskets and boods - check and replace as required
Clutch - check and replace as required
Futue te ipsum!!!
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posted on February 6th, 2012 at 09:10 AM
Yes a bottom end rebuild 'may' be possible. Largely depends on the condition now. Does your engine make any rumbling noises on cold startup. Has it
been regularly serviced, do an oil pressure test and a oil leakdown check to get an indication of bearing and lifter bore wear. As said above, crank
end float is one thing, but most important in bearing radial clearance, you can get an idea of this with a screw driver under the flywheel.
Once bottom end is proven, a top end rebuild is as you said, P & C kit, reco or new heads, a few seals and cleaning all the ancilleries and bolt
it all together.......easy
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
TorxKiwi
A.k.a.: Dean Newell
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posted on February 6th, 2012 at 09:50 PM
Thanks for the responses guys. I'll continue researching and decide what to do next.
Anyone got a decent 1600 TP for sale as either a base for a rebuild or ready to drop in? ... I was too slow for the one looking for a new home a
couple of weeks ago. Whoever got it can you make me feel better by telling me that it was nothing better than a paperweight and wouldn't have been
any use to me!!!
Cheers,
Dean
"Ownership of a Beetle is not a destination it is a journey."
