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Author: Subject:  Quenching out when Mig Welding
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posted on February 28th, 2012 at 07:45 PM
Quenching out when Mig Welding


Doing some rust repairs on the beetle (rear guard mounting areas), & I want to know if I need to be quenching out my welds (MIG) with water as I go to control distortion. I used to do this back in the days when I only had OXY to work with.

I havent got good enough access to the back of the panel to allow me to get a dolly behind it to hammer on.

Any help appreciated.

Cheers
Brendan




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posted on March 14th, 2012 at 03:42 PM



Tack on tack is the best method. Using water will cause warping also. Just take it slow, and allow the metal to cool after half a dozen tacks or so, depending on the size of the area.



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posted on March 14th, 2012 at 08:30 PM



I use air to cool welds, as the water is too quick and hardens the weld too much. I metal finish most of my joins, so I use every advantage I can to make the job work.



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posted on March 14th, 2012 at 08:37 PM



Yep..blow with an air gun between welds..
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posted on March 25th, 2012 at 09:36 PM



Thanks gents, I think my problems were trying to get to much welded in one go & tacks too far apart. getting to much heat in. Will give the air a try.

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Brendan




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posted on March 25th, 2012 at 09:41 PM



Tack every cm, and then sand the tacks down to almost level with the surrounding panel.

Then do the welds 1 cm at a time with the air gun to cool. It takes about 20 seconds per cm, so you are looking at 3cm per minute.

I have done roof chops areas that have taken 6 hours just to weld the roof skin.




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posted on March 30th, 2012 at 12:53 PM



Thanks Pete, been tacking way too far apart. probably about 3cm. tried the air method the other day & definetely helped. I'm getting improvements as I go, so thanks to all. Will post up some pics of my progress shortly.

Cheers
Brendan




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