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TorxKiwi
A.k.a.: Dean Newell
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posted on April 1st, 2012 at 07:57 AM |
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Lower '75 L Bug
I want to lower my '75 L Bug and having read everything online I am now suitably confused. I figure if I just break it into a series of questions
that I might get some answers on here that will clarify. I'm not looking to do anything radical, about a 2" drop at the front to take the tail
dragging look out of it.
1. For the back end I just need to adjust the spring plates. No parts required?
2. If I install these springs, http://www.justkampersaustralia.com/shop/1302-1303-lowering-springs-j18058.html do I need to do anything else?
Cheers
"Ownership of a Beetle is not a destination it is a journey."
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Bizarre
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posted on April 1st, 2012 at 09:19 AM |
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g'day
I would go this way
https://www.classicveedub.com.au/cvd_new/parts.aspx?SearchData=struts
You need the last one - the 2 bolt
You need a shorter insert if you lower. The springs are ok (in my uninformed way) if you say go 1" or are part of a whole set up
Stock springs are under pressure when installed so when the front isnt under pressure (say going over a bump - when the front is on a "rise") the
strut assembly is still "together"
I cant see how those lowered springs work with a non adjustable cup.
Those springs are not under pressure when you use them.
My adjustable struts you put the springs in and you adjust the cup till the spring is snug under extension
Does that all make sense??
As for the rear - do the front first and see how far the bum gets pulled up.
Lower the front and the bum comes up
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Bizarre
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posted on April 1st, 2012 at 09:20 AM |
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remember to need a spring clamp when taking stock struts to pieces
You will blow your arm off if you just take the nut off
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Joel
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posted on April 1st, 2012 at 09:56 AM |
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Those lowered springs would do the job for you but the ride quality they give would be questionable.
Barry, they work similar to cutting coils.
They are the same as a stock spring but made abit shorter and usually a bit firmer so when the struts put back together they hold the car up 60mm (ish
- varies from car to car) lower but still have the same spring rate.
Where the ride will suffer is the stock struts at a 60mm drop are starting to run out of travel so when you hit bumps they are gonna bottom out on the
bumpstops more.
The easiest and most effective way is buy the adjustable struts Bizarre linked up.
They are made shorter so you don't lose travel once lowered and are adjustable so you can tweak with it after if you're not happy.
But one thing to consider is wheels, are you sticking with stock or planning on wider wheels?
74 onwards Lbugs can be a pita with non stock wheels when lowered for rubbing and clearance.
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TorxKiwi
A.k.a.: Dean Newell
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posted on April 1st, 2012 at 12:24 PM |
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Do I just keep the stock springs, which I assume would be partially compressed, with the lowering kit, or do I still need the shorter springs as
well.
No plans to go wider on the wheels ...... at least not this week!!!
"Ownership of a Beetle is not a destination it is a journey."
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TorxKiwi
A.k.a.: Dean Newell
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posted on April 1st, 2012 at 12:25 PM |
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What's the deal with using Mk1 Golf struts, inserts and springs. I believe that these fit and will achieve the desired outcome?
"Ownership of a Beetle is not a destination it is a journey."
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Bizarre
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posted on April 1st, 2012 at 12:36 PM |
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you keep stock springs. They will still be compressed as the "top" is lower
The Golf insert is shorter
When you lower the cup you dont lower the base where the insert sits. So you need a shorter insert so as you get "full and propper" travel of the
insert with the stock spring in relation to the new position of the top
Futue te ipsum!!!
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TorxKiwi
A.k.a.: Dean Newell
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posted on April 1st, 2012 at 12:42 PM |
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So I just climbed under the car to check things out. Will the setup from classics have mounting points for brake lines etc or do I need to weld
something on?
"Ownership of a Beetle is not a destination it is a journey."
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Bizarre
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posted on April 1st, 2012 at 12:44 PM |
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probably have to weld something on
There is a reason they are cheap
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Joel
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posted on April 1st, 2012 at 12:52 PM |
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Nah, thats the downside to empi stuff.
Toplines struts come with clamps to hold them.
They are just uni-strut pipe clamps, easy enough to get through Enzed, blackwoods etc
The Mk1 golf struts don't work on their own, the springs firstly are designed to have the weight of a front engined car on them and secondly they are
huge, about 2" bigger in diameter than Lbug springs.
It's only the inserts that are used, they are the same as bugs but shorter.
THey are 2" shorter than later 2 bolt Lbug
Or 4" shorter than earlier Sbug, these are my old KYB Sbug inserts and the shorter Boge Golf ones I bought for my lowered struts
That's what all the lowered struts for bugs use for increased travel.
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BiX
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posted on April 2nd, 2012 at 11:53 AM |
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I think there are humerous ways to lower your ride.
1. as above, modify body and shorter insert with stock spring. - gives normal ride but lower.
2. shorter stiffer spring, std insert. You used to be able to get King springs to make them. Means its stiffer so won't bottom out as much. runs
standard beetle part of rest which is nice
3. max struts, vofrce struts etc
As said above, big thing will you run wider wheels and tires and is this for looks, handling or both?
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
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