Subject: Resetting endfloat causing crank to only turn a few inches round then locks.
bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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posted on April 24th, 2012 at 03:49 PM
Resetting endfloat causing crank to only turn a few inches round then locks.
As the subject of end float came up, i thought i would ask about a dilemma i had a little while back.
My engine currently has end float that appears to be too physically noticable to be within bounds. When i tried to reset the shims, i ended up
removing the majority of the play, however the crank would only turn around a few inches either way before a big 'clunk' would lock up the crank and
stop it turning.
What would be going on? I ended up giving up, and been running the engine like that since. There hasn't been any issues at all thus far and have not
been too worried about it since.
thanks
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69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
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posted on April 24th, 2012 at 06:24 PM
Do you want the honest answer or the feel good answer?
Sounds like your rear main bearing is loose in the case....ouch.
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vw54
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posted on April 24th, 2012 at 07:05 PM
as per above you need to PULL the whole engine apart and machine
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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posted on April 25th, 2012 at 12:35 AM
By lameman's feel. I had mucked around trying to measure but was with the wrong tools. So i used the vw-resource.com rule of thumb that the play
should be about the same as the tappet clearance distance. i can easily move the crank to and from and from that it appears to be in excess. not
enough to cause mass oil leaks or clutch slipping.
Haha, main bearing loose in case hey? eek. i've been aware of
this float annoyance since i first started running the car and so far been great lol. did coffs harbour and back, warrick drags, noosa, bush bashing
at tambo, straddie twice lol. lucky run i spose. I spose the high pressure oil pump and sticky lucus oil stabiliser is probably whats making up for
the excess play, filling in the larger tolerances.
Whats the chance of it failing soon? like pre-valla?
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
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posted on April 25th, 2012 at 07:53 AM
Quote:
Originally
posted by bajachris88
Whats the chance of it failing soon? like pre-valla?
Should be OK.....providing you don't drive it.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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posted on April 28th, 2012 at 10:53 PM
Let's just say it's a major failure just waiting to happen. They can go on for years or it might go bang on the way to the shops
Think of it this way. As the thrust bearing is worn the crank moves laterally and so do the conrods and hence they start working at a slight angle.
Just takes the edge of the small end or big end to grab and Ka-Bomb. Bent rod and crank with possible munted case from barrel being forced
sideways.
On the plus side a roll of gaffa tape should fix that
madness is in the eye of the beholder
AussieveedubbersTech Talk Resetting endfloat causing crank to only turn a few inches round then locks.