[ Total Views: 685 | Total Replies: 4 | Thread Id: 98691 ] |
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clyve
Officially Full-On Dubber
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posted on September 5th, 2012 at 10:47 AM |
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strange
ok i have a problem on the old bug.
it starts ok if left for weeks or over an hour first time every time.......but if left for half an hour it takes a while to start and it seem like
lack of fuel????????????? runs like a dream when going just this small glitch.......any idease and help welcome
cheers
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68BUS
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posted on September 5th, 2012 at 03:40 PM |
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I had the same issue with mine, made it very embarrising the first time some one at the servo said " Love the beetle" then I went out and spent
5minutes trying to start it.
The way that worked every time for mine one a hot engine once I new the trick, was to kick over the starter motor whilst slowly depressing the
accelorator to the floor and holding it there until the engine fired.
Generally took about 3-5seconds to start at max.
I think it has something to do with inbuilt chokes but that is not my strong point.
1966 Aussie 11 Window
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
23 Windows of Awesome
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posted on September 5th, 2012 at 09:01 PM |
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For hot engine starts, it is recommended for kombi's to have the foot flat to the floor while cranking (not pumping just flat).
Don't see why this should be different to any of the same type 1 style donks. I believe it has to do with fuel seepage into the manifold from the
carb from sitting perhaps?
Make sure you have no known traces of vacuum leaks too. A general tune up (points, timing, valves) wouldn't go astray.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
Aircooled Master
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posted on September 5th, 2012 at 09:38 PM |
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Normally, if the engine is flooded [too much fuel]
HOLD the pedal to the floor while cranking..
and they will usually start.. any car.. usually..
It can be the automatic choke...
they are worked on temperature
NOT from the engine... but from the time it takes to get hot from the electric coil and how long it takes the coil to cool down.
these can need adjusting from COLD to Hot weather etc..
CHOKE is closed when the auto choke coil is cold...
it starts heating UP as soon as You turn the ignition ON..
so, after an hour is should be COLD regardless of how warm the engine still is..
so, the engine should start with the choke ON..
but after a few minutes ?? You could be starting without a choke..?? depends on the choke adjustment..
and it is easy..
3 screws on the auto chokejust loosen and turn the choke slightly..If You have the air cleaner off.. You can see the choke flap inside..
closed lightly or very hard depending on adjustment.
there is a small mark on the choke rim so You can see how far You adjusted it.. it doesn't take much.. maybe 2-3mm
from memory.. I think its anti-clockwise to [can't remember]
LEE
its better to have it just closed when cold..
as when its VERY cold it will be really closed hard..
and that is a lot of CHOKE..
If You are from the UK... its called a strangler.. choke.. lol
well that is what its called in the book I have from the UK...
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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ancientbugger
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posted on September 6th, 2012 at 09:09 AM |
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Funny? When I was there the choke was always called the 'choke' and the accelerator was called the 'throttle'!
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