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 aussie260z
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| posted on November 11th, 2012 at 06:57 PM |
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Beetle Stalling
Was hoping someone might be able to help me out......
My car seems to like stalling..........
Standard fuel tank, electric fuel pump with in-line plastic filter before the pump. The pump is mounted underneath the fuel tank. I have
ventiliation.
What happens....
I am driving, then it feels as if the fuel cuts out and the Beetle rolls to a stop. I wait 5 mins, then fire it up and away I go again.
I am using these carbs.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VW-Beetle-ICT-34mm-Dual-Carb-Kit-Type-1-Dual-Port-...
I have checked the fuel filter and it appears clean - I was reading through another post with a fellow who got stuck in traffic and he then had issues
that sounded very similar to mine - does it sound like an issue with my carbs?
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ian.mezz
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| posted on November 11th, 2012 at 08:41 PM |
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youd have to check and see if you had feul at carbies once it stopped.
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on November 11th, 2012 at 09:16 PM |
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Hi
a common problem with many old fuel tanks..
rust blocking the gauze in the bottom of the fuel tank
I always throw them away and let the external filter do its job..
when the pump is switched off.. the rust or gunk in the fuel tank falls away until the pump sucks up again..
I would think that You would need to have a lot of stuff in the tank to do that unless the gauze screen is partially blocked all the time and it only
takes a small bit to block it..
also, make sure Your fuel hose isn't being sucked in under the tank..
I Have found many hoses under the tank are badly kinked after the tank is installed..
they look OK until you lower the tank...
so make the hose longer...
cheers
Hope the bottom one is the answer as its easier to fix.. lol
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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donn
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| posted on November 12th, 2012 at 06:37 AM |
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Sounds suspiciously like a problem I had with the wench some time ago, even 3 calls to NRMA over a 2 month period didn't find it till one NRMA fella
took the cartridge out of my fuel filter (glass body with a disposable cartridge filter) away it went and no more probs. Yes I did put a new filter
cartridge in when I got home. 
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
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aussie260z
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| posted on November 12th, 2012 at 08:02 AM |
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I reco'd my tank with POR15 stuff - so rust won't be an issue.
I am running dual 5/16 lines (EFI Conversion is planned as I have a Mexican EFI kit and recently rebuilt the car so decided to make life easier and
run dual fuel lines) and modified the outlet on the bottom of the tank to run 5/16 line - so soldered on a new connection.
Fuel tank is like a bucket with a hole in the bottom, no restrictions inside it to cause a blockage.
Single line from the tank, through a filter (cheap disposable one) to an electric fuel pump, then it splits into 2 lines feeding either bank of the
carbies.
I made the line from the tank into the fuel filter a touch longer than standard so I could easily get it from up top and not have it rip when (if) I
remove the tank. This has caused the line to go up and then down into the filter - would this cause an issue?
I will change the filter and see what happens.
Could it be issues with the Carbs, needle and float?
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 matberry
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| posted on November 12th, 2012 at 08:26 AM |
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Fuel line in a loop under the tank won't hurt as long as it hasn't any kinks.
Otherwise as said, pump, filter or needle n seat.
Rereading your og post....are you sure it's fuel.
It really makes a difference HOW it stops, running out of fuel is a slow power change then stop where as an ignition fail is more of an instant stop.
Your description may lean towards an ignition issue????
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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aussie260z
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| posted on November 12th, 2012 at 12:09 PM |
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How do I check the needle and seat?
Just assumed it was a fuel starvation issue.....
Will be driving along and the car basically loses power, feels like when u run out of fuel, but yesterday as it happened and the car was stopping I
roll started it and it came back to life, then died.
Wait 5 mins and it fires fine - this same process has happened three times now and each time waiting 5 mins it has been fine.
Other than this car starts and drives great.
Except.......
First thing in the morning go to start the car and it fires first time, go for a drive. Wait an hour and then go to start it again, will sometimes
crank for a while and not fire.
Fucked the last plugs in under 1000km, way to rich, but as car was still being built alli ever did was idler it and drive around the block - now I
actually drove it plugs seem to last
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on November 12th, 2012 at 07:33 PM |
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a faulty condensor will do that...
it can be perfect when cold and open circuit when the temp rises..
I used to have this problem on mitsubishi L300 years ago..
I used to have a spare condensor sitting there all the time.. to hook up when the other one stopped...
used to go thru them.?? heat ??
As Matt said.. Ignition just stops instantly...
best of Luck
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on November 12th, 2012 at 07:37 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by aussie260z
I reco'd my tank with POR15 stuff - so rust won't be an issue.
I am running dual 5/16 lines (EFI Conversion is planned as I have a Mexican EFI kit and recently rebuilt the car so decided to make life easier and
run dual fuel lines) and modified the outlet on the bottom of the tank to run 5/16 line - so soldered on a new connection.
Fuel tank is like a bucket with a hole in the bottom, no restrictions inside it to cause a blockage.
Single line from the tank, through a filter (cheap disposable one) to an electric fuel pump, then it splits into 2 lines feeding either bank of the
carbies.
I made the line from the tank into the fuel filter a touch longer than standard so I could easily get it from up top and not have it rip when (if) I
remove the tank. This has caused the line to go up and then down into the filter - would this cause an issue?
I will change the filter and see what happens.
Could it be issues with the Carbs, needle and float?
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Rare for both carbies to stop at once???
Your fuel system seems to be OK...
When You say You can start the engine after 5 minutes
does that mean it just starts OK or You need to pump fuel thru first..
If it starts OK... could be the condensor...
Condensors usually go faulty with Heat..
when they cooll down they usually work again...
unless you are running Pertronix etc.. and no points..
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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shokwave2
A.k.a.: Matt Hamilton
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| posted on November 12th, 2012 at 09:15 PM |
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Could be overheating, vapour lock or coil getting too hot. Once it cools down it fires straight up. I've had this problem before.
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aussie260z
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| posted on November 12th, 2012 at 09:33 PM |
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Dont think it is the condensor.......
[img] [/img]
My ignition setup is slightly different than the old 009.
No........literally just press the start button and it fires into life.
Just after it dies, when I go to crank I get nothing and it sort of burbles and it struggles to start.
Wait 5 mins, then it just fires no dramas.
I changed the fuel filter and it had a a lot of floaties in it - maybe it is all the lose bits of POR15 coming out of the bottom of my tank :-)!
Drove it around for 20mins tonight without incident, but not convinced the issue has resolved itself.
Carbies aren't leaking.
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aussie260z
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| posted on November 12th, 2012 at 09:39 PM |
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Maybe I shouldn't have mounted my coils there? Heat issues?
I have checked the fuel filter and it doesn't seem devoid of fuel - has plenty of fuel in it when I have checked it - that would indicate that it
isn't vapour lock right?
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matberry
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| posted on November 12th, 2012 at 09:51 PM |
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Coils should be ok there. Whats the engine bay like, sealed, air intake size etc. That coupled with small contact patch on the fan v belt pulley
allowing the fan to loose speed might be enough to make your engine get hot....
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Sides
A.k.a.: Dave Sidery
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| posted on November 13th, 2012 at 08:07 AM |
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So when stops have to wait five min before will go again... yeah?
Maybe do a spark test during that five minutes and see what ya got...
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aussie260z
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| posted on November 13th, 2012 at 06:02 PM |
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Everything is brand new, engine seal is good - I have a stack of gauges and now have cylinder head temp and oil temp, both appear to be giving me a
decent reading - so engine might not be hotter than normal.
I changed the fuel filter last night and drove about 100kms today, traffic, big open roads, not one issue - was fine.
There was a lot of floaties in the fuel filter, the element looked about, but there was some big chunks in that filter.
Thats a good idea - Will check spark and see what I get if this happens again - fingers crossed!
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Sides
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| posted on November 13th, 2012 at 08:29 PM |
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Ah hah... floaties in the fuel filter... could just be that you've found your culprit.
VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
Join a car club - get car peeps
My toys
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'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
01 New Beetle - gf's car, but I turn the spanners |
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