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 humpty
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| posted on December 14th, 2010 at 10:32 PM |
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I really appreciate all the help I've had with this car... And of course all comments are welcome here.... Advise given freely is an awesome
thing.... What the reader takes from that is up to them.... I've not followed everything Nick has said at times, and that may or may not have been a
good move.... But the proof is in the pudding as they say.... I know this car to be a strong runner.... Even for such a little engine, it pulls like a
train.... But I am keeping it conservative at the moment as the engine is not the ideal turbo base.... That comes next.....
Speaking of which.... I'm picking up my stroker bits from the engineers tomorrow morning.... 
As for this one.... Scored the Carter Black pump.... Off to pick that up tomorrow morning also.... Plan to have it going again tomorrow arvo.... If
all goes to plan, I'll be at the track tomorrow night....
Here's hopin'!
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Stanley
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| posted on December 15th, 2010 at 06:48 AM |
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Hang in there Simon. All this will be a distant memory the first time you stab the gas and it throws you back in the seat.
and for what it's worth I run a Carter too.
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humpty
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| posted on December 15th, 2010 at 04:51 PM |
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Cheers for the words of support Andrew.... Picked up the stroker bits this morning.... Woooohooo!!!!!!
Just got back in from picking up the new pump and also got a larger tank outlet.... Will fit all that and the 1/2" lines over the next few days....
Really hoping this new pump works a little better than the last.... If it actually has the pressure as advertised, I'll prolly be back to having too
much pressure and a Malpassie that can't cope....
And the pressure is off for the drags tonight.... My "arch nemesis" is otherwise engaged this eve.... Early in the new year is penciled in....
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humpty
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| posted on December 15th, 2010 at 09:01 PM |
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Got some new Speedflow fittings for the tank from Go-Gear.... Got the filter mounted with new 1/2" fittings, got new 1/2" solid fuel lines run, made
a new mount for the Malpassi FPR, need to fit the new pump, get some more 1/2" soft line and some clamps and larger fittings for the carb, and some
sort of line reducer for the FPR inlet and outlet....
Gonna hopefully fit the larger tank outlet tomorrow, but I'm a little unsure how to do it safely..... I need to cut the OEM outlet off, enlarge the
hole, then fit the Speedflow fitting.... My problem is the gas fumes in the tank.... If I filled the tank with water and turned it upside down, do you
think it will be safe to cut the OEM outlet off (with a hacksaw) and grind the hole larger with a dremel?
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Boostn
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| posted on December 16th, 2010 at 12:52 AM |
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Yep fill it with water upside down.
I then ignite it with a lighter so I don't get a surprise when I'm cutting or welding.
If you want, get a 60 mm or 75 mm exhaust tube by about 100 mm long and drill some holes in the side.
Weld a base onto it, mount the fitting onto it. Cut a hole wide enough in the bottom of the tank and weld it in.
An instant internal surge tank. But make sure there is a hole or two at the bottom so you don't need 10 L in the tank before you get fuel at the pick
up.
Also seeing as your welding, weld a 1/2'' steel tube from the bottom going upwards stopping short a few cm from the top of the tank. You can use
this as a return so it looks cleaner on top.
Have fun and don't burn those knuckle hairs.
VOLLKOMMEN ART
nick@vollkommenart.com
Speed and Style
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humpty
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| posted on December 22nd, 2010 at 07:10 PM |
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Backend is all but done...... So the front is getting a look at.... Pump is in, looking to find a tank sock for the fuel feed..... Was also thinking
about doing something along these lines..... Found these pics on Shoptalk...
Would it be a better idea to have the pot protruding into the tank too?
Also with a return as you suggest Nick..... With one change.... I have some 1/2" copper pipe left over from the fuel line install, so I thought I'd
silver solder that to the threaded pipe bungs and weld those to the tank.... That way a regular threaded barb can be screwed straight in for both feed
and return.... The return pipe (fitted in the OEM outlet pozzie) will also have a 180ยบ bend at the top so the fuel can stream back into the tank....
Not sprinkler back in.
Gonna pick up the fittings and some exhaust pipe tomorrow and get started on it.... Will post some pics as I go.
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humpty
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| posted on December 27th, 2010 at 03:40 PM |
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Hey fellas....
It's upgrade time for the POS...... Decided the time has almost come to put the stroker together.... All the parts are in, the balance job is
complete, the crankcase is sorted, the final details are being hammered out.... So the 'last' part of the puzzle needs to be handled....
A while back I picked up some CB Wedge Port heads off Serrano's just before the meltdown.... At the time I had the intention of building a NA
stroker.... Going turbo with the engine now, with the intention of replacing the long suffering 1776, but have been thinking that the heads might be a
little too much for such an engine....
The basics are all there.... 2276 in the conventional parlance.... WEB 86C cam, slipper skirt pistons, H Beams, yadda, yadda, yadda....
At this stage the current turbo (GT2560RS) and intake and exhaust systems (draw-through) that is on the POS will be the source of all the good
times.... I know the turbo to be a little small, but an upspec'ed GT28 is in the works.... And there is a very real possibility of going efi sooner
rather than later...
So I guess the question is.... The Wedgie's too much?.... Should I look at other options to help with velocity?... Ultra Mag Plus or something
else?..... This car is a street car, but not a commuter.... It's not really a cruiser either.... It's a street car with drag racing
intentions.....
Cheers for the forthcoming advise....
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humpty
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| posted on December 27th, 2010 at 04:36 PM |
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Also..... Just scored these of Rick Mortensen in Arizona....
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richie webb
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| posted on December 27th, 2010 at 08:29 PM |
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Another really interesting thread:-)
Just a couple of thoughts,1st 13 something afr under boost is way to lean,I like to see 11.9ish under boost on an aircooled engine,cylinders dont stay
together for long if its leaner and you turn up the boost.
Also when you were driving it on the street and got on it,it started out good on the afr then went lean,are you sure its not just lean full stop? the
richness you are seeing maybe the puddle of fuel sitting in the turbo housing getting sucked in and giving a false reading? I have seen that plenty of
times before on drawthrough set ups.
Also not sure if you are still staying carb or not? if so the way to set up the fuel system is 2 regulators,one set at say 6 psi,then another nearer
the carb that is boost referenced abd set at 1.5 psi at idle,then as you mke boost the regulator pressure goes up to keep the float bowl full,but only
to 6psi as the 2nd regulator prevents it from going any higher,if you just set 1 reg up with 1/1 ratio boost reference it will go as high as the pump
allows and flood the engine.
If you are thinking of going efi later then set the fuel system up with that in mind now,2 fuel lines,I like -8 feed and -6 return and EFI fuel
pump& filter[the efi filter works properly on a return style system as it constantly filters the fuel] ,then just regulate the fuel pressure down
from there,you know you wont ever run out fo fuel this way.
Hope this helps,good luck with it:-)
cheers richie,uk
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humpty
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| posted on December 27th, 2010 at 10:41 PM |
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Hey Richie..... Appreciate your advise with this one.... The system of which you speak has been attempted earlier in the piece.... At the time I
couldn't make it work.... Thinking back, it more than likely could have been more of an issue with the crap quality pump I was running.... Sticking
with the carb early on in this project, was more down to the local nostalgic street class I was planning to run in.... The organisers of which allowed
me to run the BB turbo and the EDIS/Megajolt ignition, but stipulated no EFI..... Though for me personally, the idea of eventually going EFI has
always been on the cards... Hence the return loop fuel system that has been installed in the car.... Now that I have sourced those manifolds of Rick,
the likely hood of me going to EFI with the stroker engine is greater.... Though I still want to get the carb working on the 1776....
Back to that.... The fuel system upgrade is nearing completion... The hard lines are in, and most of the engine bay plumbing is complete... Just need
to get onto the tank.... Unfortunately I'm waiting on my local hose fitting supplier to come back from holidays in the new year....
So in the meantime.... Disc brakes for the front are going on.... Suppose the extra stopping power is a good thing.... 
Hope you all have had a good festive season thus far.
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humpty
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| posted on January 6th, 2011 at 02:34 PM |
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They've arrived!!!!
Look at the quality of the welds and the porting?... They've also been sleeved in the manifold stud area.... Shame I need to match them to my
Wedgies!!!!
Also.... Have finally figured out the fuel system on the POS.... All done, save for the tank.... Which I will do today.... Not gonna do the swirl pot
thing just yet.... To do it right, I need to spend a little and I just can't do that right now.... I'll do the swirl pot upgrade once I have the tax
man off my back, and I can get the final few bits pulled together, and my TIG dude can do what's needed, and when the EFI goes into the car... So
I'm just improving what I had before.... It worked so why mess with it....
Changes I will make are straight forward.... Make both the feed and return 1/2".... Make the feed outlet a little taller (into the tank) and longer
on the barb end.... And fit a better quality pre-filter.....
I'll get some more pics of the tank upgrades later today....
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humpty
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| posted on January 7th, 2011 at 10:58 PM |
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Here's the latest.....
Got it all back together.... 1/2" all the way.... The only places that are not 1/2" are the inlet and return of the Malpassi and the inlet to the
carb....
Tried to get it started this evening..... No go.....
The pressure gauge (which is mounted on the carb inlet) is reading plenty of pressure. Pulled the line to the gauge and ran an extension to a gerry
can.... It's flowing plenty..... Pulled the top off the carb.... Float bowl is almost totally dry?.... Jets are dry too.... Blew through the
ball'n'seat.... Working fine..... Checked the float level.... Perfect at 10mm....
Any ideas?
Also.... While I have your attention....
These are the inlet in the carb top.... Tiny lil' things aren't they?.... Can I drill them out at all?..... And do you think I should continue to
run the small filter that is in there also?
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humpty
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| posted on January 8th, 2011 at 02:07 PM |
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Anyway..... Drilled out the inlets on the carb (on advise from Shagg in the US), got the dremel in there and smoothed everything out... Nice smooth
pathway for the fuel to travel now.... Pulled the filter screen also.
Couldn't figure out the problem with the fuel not getting in.... So I fitted a hose to the carby inlet whilst is was fitted to the carb body....
Attempted to blow into the carb.... Nothing doing.... The ball'n'seat was work perfectly..... A little too perfectly..... The problem is obvious....
The float level is wrong.... Maybe I've been setting it wrong all this time, but have just been right enough to work in the past..... So with the
wonderful world wide web at hand, I found a reference to setting the float that said the top plate of the carb must be vertical.... With the
ball'n'seat at the top most point and the floats hanging downward..... I had been checking it with the top cover upside down and horizontal....
Idiot!
Corrected the level and bolted it all back on.... Power up.... Right away I could hear the difference in the fuel pump and hear the fuel flooding into
the float bowl.... Couple of twists of the butterflies and the squirters are working perfectly.... Turn the key and she fired right up... 2psi at
idle.... Perfect.
Sorted.... Off for a spin around the block this arvo....
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dangerous
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| posted on January 8th, 2011 at 05:26 PM |
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well?
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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humpty
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| posted on January 8th, 2011 at 08:59 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by dangerous
well?
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3000rpm.... The it falls on its face..... Not stopping dead like before, but power killing stutter.... A few times I managed a glance at the O2 gauge
and notice the afr to be very rich at this moment.... Like in the 9's rich.... Idle is hard to control too.... Either too fast or almost stopping....
No happy medium....
I put the 45 idles back in (55's in there before) and that cleaned up the low speed control cruising issues....
But the 'falling on its face' thing is doing my head in..... I still think it's getting too much fuel under boost..... I can rev it beyond 3k in
the shed.... No problem.... I can even creep up on the rpm and motor past 3k.... It's just at WOT that it all goes pear shaped....
Gonna pull the boost reference line from the Malpassi and give another shot..... Right after dinner.... The reason I reckon this might be the issue is
before when I ran a conventional FPR it ran fine.... All the time.... Now I have better control of the pressure, I reckon boosted fuel pressure is
killing spark.... We've been here before I know, but not with solid fuel pressure....
Here goes!
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humpty
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| posted on January 8th, 2011 at 10:43 PM |
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Nup.... That didn't work.
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humpty
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| posted on January 9th, 2011 at 12:18 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by richie webb
... the way to set up the fuel system is 2 regulators,one set at say 6 psi,then another nearer the carb that is boost referenced and set at 1.5 psi at
idle,then as you mke boost the regulator pressure goes up to keep the float bowl full,but only to 6psi as the 2nd regulator prevents it from going any
higher,if you just set 1 reg up with 1/1 ratio boost reference it will go as high as the pump allows and flood the engine.
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I know Nick thinks otherwise, but this setup has been mentioned in the past and I have attempted it.... It kinda worked too..... But it was around
that time I think the pump started to fail.... Which was prolly the cause of all the problems I was having earlier on.... Should I try it again?
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 matberry
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| posted on January 9th, 2011 at 07:12 AM |
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I would have thought , yes Richie's sounds good, but I can't talk from any of my experience. Thanks for the updates. Can't believe you haven't had
a full boost pass without issues yet......but it must be very soon....keep up the good work  and most of all....keep smiling, it's gonna be FUN !!! 
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Stanley
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| posted on January 11th, 2011 at 06:33 AM |
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Hang in there Simon. All the hard work is done. Sounds like some tuning to be done, but I know this can be a cause for frustration. It'll be worth it
when it's sorted though
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humpty
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| posted on January 11th, 2011 at 09:46 AM |
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The more I think about it, the more I feel the 'breaking down' issue to be ignition related.... Infact.... It's prolly as simple as bad earth or a
dry solder.... I'll pull the ignition harness this arvo and run a meter over the whole lot....
I know this car goes hard.... It ran perfectly for months before the yellow sticker....... I just wish I could find the reason for the power failure
under load..... Thanks for the support fellas.
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matberry
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| posted on January 11th, 2011 at 10:23 AM |
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Speaking electrical, you mentioned earth's but also check supply connections, and not just with a digital multimeter, they will confuse the best.
Good luck.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
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LIFE IN THE LOW LANE
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| posted on January 11th, 2011 at 06:43 PM |
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Start at the source - battery terminals then work forward from there. I know it sounds amateurish but I'm not the only one who has been caught out by
something so simple.....
Persevere mate! You'll find it. If not get a fresh pair of eyes on it!!
[size=4] ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE[/size]
Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!
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dangerous
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| posted on January 11th, 2011 at 07:50 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by LIFE IN THE LOW LANE
Start at the source - battery terminals then work forward from there. I know it sounds amateurish but I'm not the only one who has been caught out by
something so simple.....
Persevere mate! You'll find it. If not get a fresh pair of eyes on it!!
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So true.
But once you have the electrics checked,
remember that 90% of ignition troubles are fuel system troubles.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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humpty
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| posted on January 11th, 2011 at 09:41 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by dangerous
| Quote: | Originally
posted by LIFE IN THE LOW LANE
Start at the source - battery terminals then work forward from there. I know it sounds amateurish but I'm not the only one who has been caught out by
something so simple.....
Persevere mate! You'll find it. If not get a fresh pair of eyes on it!!
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So true.
But once you have the electrics checked,
remember that 90% of ignition troubles are fuel system troubles.
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Oh don't start that again Dave!!!! 
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humpty
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| posted on January 12th, 2011 at 03:54 PM |
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Found a bad plug lead.... Resistance too high.... Got some new MSD parts and 3mtr of 8.5mm MSD lead and made a new set.... Looks pretty..... Didn't
fix the issue.... In fact... It seems to be running worse.... Goes crazy rich under load now.... Like.... Into the 9's!!!!.... It's over fueling
something shocking.... Idle is a little erratic too.... From lean to rich, fast to almost dead.... Fuel pressure is solid.... Whether I have boost
reference of not....
Time to pull the carb down again and see what's up.... EFI is looking better all the time!
Got another 24hrs on this permit.... The fun never stops....
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SuperOwen
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| posted on January 12th, 2011 at 07:08 PM |
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Probably not the issue but have a good look at your edis coil, spec it out with a multimeter but also look for physical signs of overheating etc. The
one I got from boost engineering is in the bin already.
Other than that have you double checked for manifold leaks etc? Hopefully you find dead insect in the carb or something else simple!
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humpty
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| posted on January 12th, 2011 at 08:45 PM |
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Interesting idea...... I haven't changed out the coil..... I have a brand new coil sitting in a box for another project, but can you tell me how I
can check the coil that's in there?.... I have never attempted such a thing....
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SuperOwen
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| posted on January 13th, 2011 at 02:50 AM |
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with the coil unplugged just use your multimeter to check the resistance of each primary and secondary. From memory its about 12k across the secondary
and .6 across the primary but dont quote me. Also check for any continuity to ground from either side(bad), you have a new unit there so if in doubt
compare obviously.
As for signs of overheating, on other coil packs Ive seen the epoxy the coils are set in start to look a bit cooked and sometimes even the plastic
casing, never a good sign! The plug on my coil broke when I breathed on it as well so have a good look for cracks etc around there as well.
Or just throw the new coil on and take it for a run around the block!
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humpty
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| posted on January 13th, 2011 at 11:47 AM |
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Cheers for that.... I'll certainly give that a shot..... Got a few other things to check today also.... I want to make sure the fuel gauge is
accurate.... Gonna attempt to set the pressure at the needle and seat as Hermann recommends... ie: no gauge at all.... Start the pump, adjust the flow
until the needle and seat are over powered, then roll the adjuster back until it stops... Seems a little grassroots to me, but that's how he does it
and it has worked for him!.... He also suggested I should be running the same size air correctors as mains.... Crazy I know, but again, the proof is
in the pudding so they say.... I'll give almost anything a shot.... 
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SuperOwen
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| posted on January 13th, 2011 at 01:21 PM |
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So much for draw through being the simple and cheap option!!!
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