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 Anthiron
A.k.a.: Nicko McKay
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The Baja Rejuvenation Begins
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 02:57 PM |
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Dont give up so easily.
If your starter motor wont even turn over then its not the coil. even if your coil was broken you wouldnt be able to tell via a "Closer
inspection"
If everything was fine before you did the Alt conversion then i would put my money on wiring.
PUT THE CAR IN NEUTRAL
Get under the car (on jack stands not a jack) and look for the Starter motor which is on the driver side in front of the engine sitting off to the
side of the gearbox bellhousing. You should see 2 terminals on the motor. Get a screwdriver and jump the terminals together (by doing this you are
bypassing the switch in your igniton which completes this circut and therefore if you have a faulty switch or wiring in that circut you will find out
now. The engine should turn over when you do this and there may be sparks. If you didnt put your car in neutral you probobly just got run over by the
back wheels.
If this still does nothing - find the big thick power wire that connects to the Starter. Get your test/trouble light out and earth one lead and
attach the other to this wire. Do you have power? If yes then your starter is most probobly cactus. If you have no power to this wire then trace it
back and find out why. This will be the souce of your problem.
Nicko
PS: a Starter motor is pretty easy to replace yourself.
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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Anthiron
A.k.a.: Nicko McKay
Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
The Baja Rejuvenation Begins
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 03:01 PM |
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Ok so the car was turning over. but wouldnt fire......
Glad you got it running. Where is the oil coming from? it kinda looks to be like it is just being blown out of the oil filler hole.....Which is to be
expected if you dont have a filler in there.
Hard to tell without a picture of the filler hole though
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 03:01 PM |
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Nicko!
If you have a look at my last post, on page 9, you'll see that cleaning up the coil and finding the correct match with leads for the distributor cap
has fixed it.
She's blowing a bit of black smoke which I have a feeling has something to do with the timing, but other than that and the massive oil leak now,
she's running fine.
She was whining, but loosened the pulley so the that the belt had a little more space and now she has no whine!
I'll never give up, I want to make Zelda into something I can have for a while. Next year I'll hopefully be getting a new engine for her.
Next pay check I'll be purchasing some decklid stand offs from Craig Torrens so I can run her with a ventless decklid. I also really need to fork out
for a new oil filler too.
I'll try and grab a photo of the oil filler hole. The breather tube isn't there because I have no oil filler attached, currently it is just covered
by a piece of duct tape... :l
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Anthiron
A.k.a.: Nicko McKay
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 03:08 PM |
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I would suggest you head to supercheap and get a couple of cans of good citrus degreaser and go to town with a toothbrush on that engine and clean it
right up.
Then i would go to this site... http://www.vw-resource.com/tune_up.html
And follow the instructions (make sure you identify all of your components correctly as it appears you have quite a bitzer engine)
to get your engine running nicely. Once this is done and your engine is all clean you will be able to see where oil is leaking from clearly as it wont
have had a chance to just splatter around everywhere.
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 03:13 PM |
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Alrighty, luckily Mum is already down there so just gave her a buzz to pick some cans up for me.
Had a quick gander at that website just before, will definitely have a look once the engine is all cleaned up. You're right, she's so bloody filthy
it is impossible to pinpoint exactly where the leak is coming from.
She is definitely a bitzer! I'll have to find a mate that has a timing light and that is close enough to me to actually bring it down. If not, I'll
just have to make sure I don't let her idle out at the lights. I'm not fussed if the timing is out at the moment, it is mainly this oil leak. Mum is
having a go at me because it is on the pavers, and I don't want to park Zelda on the side of the road because of what happened last time she was on
the road.
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Anthiron
A.k.a.: Nicko McKay
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 03:21 PM |
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I would suggest your problem more lies with Points or Carb tuning rather than Timing. However doing the whole tune up will leave you with a clean
slate to start with. If you cannot get a hold of a timing light you might be able to set the timing on your dissy statically. I am not familiar with
vacumm only dissys so i cant help you much there.
Remember that to do your tappets the engine needs to be cold. ie: park it for the night and do them in the morning.
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 03:33 PM |
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Alright, I'll take off the distributor cap and clean up the connections on the rotor and so forth, that may be an issue too. May have gotten some
dirt in there when trying to remove the carb.
I'll definitely try my hand at tuning the carby, will have to read up a lot more on dual tuning point carbys.
I won't be able to tune it tomorrow, not until next Saturday morning actually...
So hopefully I don't destroy the engine by driving it during the week.
Going to get underneath the car with some degreaser and a toothbrush. Let's see how it cleans up.
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Smiley
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 03:38 PM |
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That oil is probably being blown out because if you have no filler tube and block the hole then you also have no breathers. This means that the
crankcase is going to pressurise and the pressure has to be relieved somewhere. So you get oil leaks. You definitely need to get a filler and
breathers back onto the engine. I wouldn't be running the engine let alone driving it around until you get that sorted. For two reasons.
One - the above mention pressurising the case.
And two - if you haven't blocked the filler off very well it's a spot where contamination can enter the engine. And you don't want that.
Smiley 
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 03:41 PM |
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Just took a couple of photos of what she looks like at the moment. Hopefully there will be a massive difference once I have gone to town on the rest
of the engine with some degreaser and elbow grease!
I must say, the new shiny alternator does look a little out of place. Once I get the oil filler, I think everything should be alright.
Need to replace the hoses from the fan shroud to the heater boxes too...
This is the current wiring setup. A little dodgy, but for the next week it'll do. I'll redo it when I have the correct parts to make sure it runs
without having a short.
Kinda living life on the edge at the moment.
Also, this is the external regulator. It is practically brand new! I'm thinking I'll put it up for sale, if anyone needs one...
Everything is wired up perfectly though, but wish I could tell how much charge I had in the battery before and after. I guess we'll have to see how
the battery holds up when the subwoofer is blasting. Only time will tell I guess...
Also, have figured out how I'm going to light up the number plate when I put the new decklid on. Shall look very nice indeed once it is done.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 03:43 PM |
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Smiley, I'm going to adhere to your warning.
I won't be driving it until I get one of these then.
http://www.justkampersaustralia.com/shop/oil-filler-tube-vented-polished-j121...
That'll solve all the aforementioned issue, correct?
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Smiley
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 03:59 PM |
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I'd be running a stock breather setup personally. Especially if the engine is a little tired.
I put that same filler on my old 1300 and because it had a bit of blowby the number and severity of the oil weeps would have doubled.
So I went back to a stock one.
With the breathers like the one you have posted there's only one hole for the blowby to get out, the one that is connected to your air filter.
The stock ones have that as well as the tube that runs down through the tinware with a duckbill valve on the end.
The other thing I have to say is that the filler that I bought was exactly the same as that one (though blue to match my car  , and from a different VW parts supplier) and the plastic cap on it last
maybe 2 months before the top cracked off it. I also found that the O-ring seal worked very poorly, because if you tightened it down too much it would
squish the O-ring out the side.
These things combined with the poor breathing made me go back to the stock setup.
As they say "Chrome won't get you home"
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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 matberry
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 04:01 PM |
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Good advice as usual Smiley
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 04:04 PM |
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Alright Smiley!
I wish I could run the stock breather setup, but my oil filler and such is stuck on the generator stand and I seriously have no idea how to get it off
within the next hour.
Plus, it would mean I'd have to take the alternator back out and the alternator stand too, just to attach the stock oil filler.
With the linked oil filler though, I can still run a breather hose to the oil bath air cleaner, which is my main concern at the moment.
I'm not after the chrome look, the rest of the engine is screwed as it is. My issue is that I need to get the car back on the road as soon as
possible and I think that means buying the aforementioned filler and fitting it as soon as possible.
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matberry
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 04:16 PM |
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No source of heat to heat the alloy around where the nut is?Even a gas stove top may do, but a gas torch or oxy is better. With the alt stand in a
vise have a tool made from a piece of flat steel, 3-6mm thick and ground to size to fit into the internal nut, heat it up, drive in the tool with a
very solid blow with a hammer, and undo nut by turning tool with a large shifter......easy .
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Paulc1964au
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 04:21 PM |
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Seb,
You are doing so well keep up the great work
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 04:22 PM |
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Matt,
First issue is the fact that I do not want to have to go through the removal process of the alternator again, whatsoever.
I was kinda hoping to never take it off until I actually sold Zelda :P
Second issue is that Mum doesn't like me having car stuff everywhere, so I'm very limited when it comes to tools and a workbench, let alone a vice
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 04:26 PM |
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Thanks Paul, appreciate it!
Can't wait till she's back on the road though, just have to sort out this issue with the oil filler and so forth, then she'll be back on the road
and I'll be able to enjoy driving her again!
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matberry
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 04:32 PM |
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Understand mate, not easy with limited tools. I was explaining a method to remove your old filler from your old alt stand. Changing the stands over is
definately a big job.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 04:36 PM |
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I know, but to put the same breather and oil filler setup back on from the original genny stand onto the new stand would be near impossible without
removing the alternator and the stand again, which is something no one would enjoy!
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Smiley
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 05:40 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
I know, but to put the same breather and oil filler setup back on from the original genny stand onto the new stand would be near impossible without
removing the alternator and the stand again, which is something no one would enjoy!
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No it's not.
Once you undo the 'bolt' out of the filler it just lifts out.
The you can install it onto your new stand while it is already fitted to the engine. Sit the filler in place then install the bolt down through it. I
made a tool at work last year to remove and install them. It's just a large nut welded to a piece of flat ground to shape. But as Matt has said you
could do without the nut and just throw a shifter on the plate.
I'm heading out now but when I get home later I can throw a picture of it on here.
Smiley
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 06:06 PM |
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Well, I just ordered that filler but I'm up for anything that means I can get her back on the road quicker than a couple of days.
Was hoping I'd be able to drive her to school tomorrow, but definitely not likely.
Thanks to all for the pointers though, really appreciate the help!
By the way, I've also got the ventless decklid waiting to be cleaned up and installed. Think it is off of a 68 1500 Deluxe... Now, I need a key lock
for it (it is a larger lock mechanism and housing than my current one which kinda sucks) and have figured out how I'm going to light up the number
plate.
My only issue with this is that of cooling for the engine. As discussed before, there will be a need for better cooling. Can this be achieved by
installing a decklid standoff at the bottom? I think Craig Torren's on here sells them...
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Smiley
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 10:39 PM |
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Ok. I have some pictures for you. better late than never.
This is the tooling that I made up. It's a bit of flat that is a nice tight fit into the notches on the oil filler nut.
This is the engine that I've just pulled out of my Baja. fortunately it was sitting in the garage so i could show you this. You can see the two
cutouts inside the filler tube.
The tool slots down inside the filler and you crack it off with the appropriate spanner.
Then all you do is wind the little 'bolt' out and your breather comes off! Easy peasy! I couldn't see you having many dramas doing this with the
engine installed in the car.
So all you need to do is remove the filler from your old stand and screw it down on the new stand on the engine.
Hope this has helped.
Smiley
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 21st, 2011 at 10:49 PM |
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Smiley!
If I had the tools to fabricate something like that, I'd do it in a jiffy.
Hopefully I'll be getting the new oil filler as soon as possible, don't know how long it'll take to ship to Adelaide though.
I poked about a 5 cent piece size hole into the duct tape on the oil filler so that relives some of the pressure I would assume, I haven't tried
starting her just in case.
I kinda don't want to start her until everything is back on the engine and she's "supposed" to be working properly.
Thanks though Smiley, really appreciate your help and everyone elses!
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 22nd, 2011 at 11:26 PM |
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While Zelda is currently parked doing nothing, I have been planning my next interior additions to her.
I currently have, in my possession, four blue LED strips that will be wired up inside Zelda.
I'm thinking that the two that I put under the dash will be wired up to the interior light circuit so that they too, will have three different states
like the interior light.
The other two, well that will be a different story. I'll have to figure out how to make it as clean as possible, but it'll definitely look very neat
when it is finished.
Let's just say, it'll have something to do with two VW emblems off of a bay window kombi glow blue. 
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Joel
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| posted on August 23rd, 2011 at 08:14 PM |
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If you got an angle grinder and a steady hand you can make one like I did from a 27mm socket if its not a paper thin cheap one.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 23rd, 2011 at 08:28 PM |
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Wish I had an angle grinder!
Bloody hopeless. The filler came today, but wasn't home when the bloke dropped it off. So I get it some time tomorrow.
I'm thinking I skip school and stay home, means I'll be able to get her back out on the road.
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Brass Munky
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| posted on August 23rd, 2011 at 09:01 PM |
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4 inch grinders are cheap Bud... a $20 Bunnings special is probably all you will ever need. Most of the time nowadays they come with a replacement
warranty, so If it breaks, go back, get another one, and continue on...
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 23rd, 2011 at 09:17 PM |
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Yeah, I might as well go down and grab one soon.
I need to cut out the rear valance as soon as possible too, hopefully SpLiTmEiStEr will give me a hand not the coming weekend, the next one we'll get
grinding.
Just means I'll be able to buy fibreglass ones and change them whenever I want.
Makes engine removal easier too!
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Brass Munky
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| posted on August 23rd, 2011 at 10:53 PM |
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Why are you cutting the rear valance?
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waveman1500
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| posted on August 23rd, 2011 at 10:59 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Brass Munky
Why are you cutting the rear valance?
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Amen to this! You have more important things to worry about at the moment. Removable valances are for drag cars, unless you're going to have the
engine out every weekend then you really don't need one. Keep up the good work!
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